Wheel Nut Nonsense (Discovery Series I)

[92.9]

I know that this is probably the most boring subject that could ever be posted in here, but I'm lacking a bit of knowledge when it comes to wheel nuts.

My Discovery Series I came with the usual second hand buyer's option of absent wheel-changing-related items and I'm a bit stuck with a couple of details:

I want to buy a wheel brace, and having read that wheel nuts will either be 22mm or 27mm (probably 27mm as far as I can work out), I measured my wheel nuts (including the caps that I can't get off) and the size is 26mm across the flats. Now, that suggests to me that the nuts can't be 27mm if they measure 26mm including the caps. But, surely the nuts aren't 22mm because that would mean the caps are 4mm wider than the nuts. So, can anyone suggest what sized wheel nuts I have got please? The wheels are Freestyle alloys. I'm also missing a cap removing tool, so that's next on the list, shortly to be followed by a jack handle.

Finally, I'm missing the key for the spare wheel locking nut, which is a cylindrical tube that spins freely, with a key hole in its end. Naturally of course I got no key for this with the car so I need to get it off, to replace it with a standard nut (or new lock). What would be the best way to get one of these off? I've no idea what they look like inside so I don't know if I need to just cut the end off with the grinder or maybe drill out the lock. Any suggestions there would be a great help. I'm pretty sure all criminals know how to get them off anyway, so it shouldn't be a problem revealing the answer to this. Or if it is a problem then maybe a PM would be better.

Thanks very much

[Smego]

should be 27mm nuts.

To get the locking wheel nut cover off place a large flat blade screwdriver in the lock slot and hit with a lump hammer, pull the now smashed up centre lock off with the cover and then undo with a normal socket.

Works the same for fuel cap locks - Oh to satisfy the mods, PLEASE REMEMBER TO WEAR GLOVES, SAFETY HELMET AND GOGGLES.

Rgds,

G.

[92.9]

Thanks for that.

I like the sound of the lump hammer technique. I'll be posting my wanted advert for a new back window very soon.

[sutty_32]

As for getting the caps off the wheel nuts, are you sure they are removable caps? most LR alloy wheel nuts have a plastic cover on that isn't removable, just put your breaker bar on and undo. They will also be 27mm as they will be slightly tapered I haven't seen series 1 disco with any different size

HTH

[92.9]

Okay, thanks

I presumed they were removable as they were on my old Range Rover and these look the same. The caps feel like thin steel to me. You may be right though as I couldn't get them off.

I presumed they would be ruined by the force of removing the nut with them fitted, but if there's a taper then I can see that it probably wouldn't bear upon the outer part - and that would also explain the 26mm mystery mentioned above!

[Trevorevans]

As sutty, they seem like caps as they appear to be loose when you fiddle with them but they are the wheel nuts not caps that's why you can't remove them I thought the same as you when I first got my disco.

[Pinn76]

With regards to the jack handle, the drag link tube is exactly the right size to fit the bottle jack. Widen the slot on one end to fit the release screw and then if you want wrap about 1/2 inch thickness of material on the last 6 inches (opposite end to slot) and cover with old bicycle inner tube for a good grip. Works a treat and stows nicely by the passenger side inner wing, tucked behind the air filter box or down beside the drivers seat.

[92.9]

I'll cross the cap removing tool off my list then!

Great tip about the drag link tube. I can get one of those easily enough.

[Range Rover Blues]

Older RRC and Disco with alloys had a steel wheel nut, later (early 90s?) had a posh nut with an ali casing for added shineyness. they are all 27mm and I often find them a bit tight, unlike the old steel ones which were always a nice fit.

I don't know about 22mm but 24mm is what you might expect to find on steel wheels with normal hex nuts, like on a Defender or Sankey trailer.

[92.9]

That explains it then because my Range Rover was 1991, with the standard Vogue SE wheels, with removable caps on the nuts. That's why I presumed it was the same on my Discovery!

[gina]

the wheel nuts are 1-1/16" AF with covers on and 1" AF without.

If your Tyre shop uses an impact driver to put the nuts on ...just tap him on the shoulder and point to the price of a new set of stainless covers that he will have to purchase and fit.;

Use never seize on the outside of the part of the nut that passes through the rim. Dissimilar metal corrosion ( especially you beach lovers) will make the nut near impossible to get in time.

Use your own wrench and socket , keep it with the vehicle and make sure those rough as guts mechanics use it to undo and tighten your wheels,

Just had new tyres fitted to mine and was absent when it happened...on the way back to the shop to get the little so and so who hammered to undo the nuts and fix em up.

[Nigelw]

I have a torque wrench in the car for changing wheels, impact wrenches are for undoing and spinning up only, I torque mine to 100Lbs/ft, seems to have done me well enough for the last 15yrs

[BogMonster]

A three foot 1/2" bar and a six-point deep impact socket are what I carry in all mine. I also use a rattle gun to take off and do up alloy wheel nuts in the garage, and have done so for 15 years with no problem (though I always check them for tightness manually). My Defender alloys get changed at least twice a year (winter/summer tyre swap) even without going in for a service. If you f*** them up with a rattle gun, you're overdoing it. I've wrecked one nut in all that time, and that was user error (in a hurry and didn't put the socket all the way on before I pressed the trigger)

All the nuts on Defender/D1/D2 are 27mm head. LR haven't used AF sizes for years, so perhaps that's why the nuts are getting destroyed