Spearos Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Good morning everyone! Soon I will be replacing my steering UJs, and as the front tyres are wearing unevenly I plan to check/adjust the tracking at the same time. I have had a read of the topic below, but I am a little confused/unsure so I'm seeking clarification! http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26532 From this topic and other information I've found there seems to be lots of ways to do this. Also, it seems that different people use different terms to describe some of the componants. Add the fact I have little experience working on the steering system, leaves me very confused! Anyhow this is how I plan to check/adjust the tracking: Centralise the steering box/steering wheel. Check N/S wheel allignment using the string method, if adjustment is needed extend or shorten the steering drag link (part 9 in attachment) Now check the O/S wheel, if adjustment is needed extend or shorten the track bar (part 7 in attachment). Would this be a satisfactory way of checking adjusting the tracking? Any comments/suggestions most welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Thats how i would do it. I posted a while back about trying to centre my 6 bolt gemmer steering box. I just couldnt do it - it was almost as if the drag link was too long and that the box was centred two turns from right lock rather than left (with the drag link removed). I left the centering as it was in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Good morning everyone! Soon I will be replacing my steering UJs, and as the front tyres are wearing unevenly I plan to check/adjust the tracking at the same time. I have had a read of the topic below, but I am a little confused/unsure so I'm seeking clarification! http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26532 From this topic and other information I've found there seems to be lots of ways to do this. Also, it seems that different people use different terms to describe some of the componants. Add the fact I have little experience working on the steering system, leaves me very confused! Anyhow this is how I plan to check/adjust the tracking: Centralise the steering box/steering wheel. Check N/S wheel allignment using the string method, if adjustment is needed extend or shorten the steering drag link (part 9 in attachment) Now check the O/S wheel, if adjustment is needed extend or shorten the track bar (part 7 in attachment). Would this be a satisfactory way of checking adjusting the tracking? Any comments/suggestions most welcome! Not quite. Set the tracking first by adjusting the Track Rod (item 7 in your picture), then sort out the steering wheel by checking the length of the drag link against the manufacturers recommended length in the manual - Adjust if necessary, then remove and refit the steering wheel IF it is a long way off 'straight ahead'. If only a little bit off, then adjust the drag link length. If you set the steering wheel and draglink up first, you may well end up doing it again after you have adjusted the tracking. Regards, Diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 nominal lengths for track rod & draglink rod are track rod 1230mm between ball joint pin centres draglink 934mm between ball joint pin & drop arm pin hole centres that should along with centralising the steering box, get you a fairly good start point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 Thanks for the replies guys. But, can anyone tell me why there is a recommended length for the drag link? I assume the recommended track rod length should give the correct tracking (near enough)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 it's just a nominal length to get the steering set up, fine tuning/tracking/draglink adjustment will be required to make the vehicle steer/drive correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted May 15, 2011 Author Share Posted May 15, 2011 it's just a nominal length to get the steering set up, fine tuning/tracking/draglink adjustment will be required to make the vehicle steer/drive correctly Ahh ok, all makes sense now Got out there the other day with the WD40 and my little wire brush. Hopefully when I get enough time to do this, the TREs will budge with minimun effort! Probably worth changing the clamps while I'm at as they're a little crusty. I couldn't detect any play in the ball joints so I guess there's no benefit in replacing them at the same time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Thanks for the replies guys. But, can anyone tell me why there is a recommended length for the drag link? I assume the recommended track rod length should give the correct tracking (near enough)? Yes If the drag link is the wrong length and the steering box centralised, then the left front wheel in a RH drive Land Rover will not run straight in spite of the tracking being set correctly. The the left wheel will run off. Don't even think about putting new tyres on the driving a short distance to set the tracking. The tyres are now running off and will do so for the rest of their life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 With the garden make over finally finished and SWMBO happy I finally had some free time to address this today. Replaced the steering UJs with only one problem (question later). Then I started to adjust the tracking, the washing line told me it was out! All going well until it came to removing the steering wheel.It just wouldn't budge. So ended up fannying around making this steering wheel extractor. Small piece of 10mm plate, two 6mm holes 32mm apart and one in the middle tapped to suit an M12 bolt. Used 2 x M6 bolts to attach it to the steering wheel tightened the M12 bolt... nothing... few more turns, the bolt was starting to get very difficult to turn, and then pop, almost ended up having the imprint of a steering wheel on my face!! Isn't it satisfying when a home built (bodged) tool works?! Just as the steering wheel came off, the heavens opened so I called it a day. Back out there tomorrow, hoping the plus gas I liberally applied to the TREs mean they'll be easy to adjust So, my question, in my haste to get stuck into the UJs I failed to mark the UJs top and bottom before I removed the assembly The wheels never moved but the steering wheel did - the top UJ was a bugger to get off! As the wheels were in the 'straight ahead' position when I started, all I did was center the steering wheel and refit the shaft with the new UJs. Now, I know that there is only one position the UJs will fit to the 'middle' shaft because of the notches for the bolts. However, does the position of the whole assembly when fitted matter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 few more turns, the bolt was starting to get very difficult to turn, and then pop, almost ended up having the imprint of a steering wheel on my face!! Isn't it satisfying when a home built (bodged) tool works?! that's why the nut should be screwed on a few threads. the upper & lower UJ's are different & should be fitted to their correct places, the central shaft has one arm longer than it's mate, the longer shaft should be nearest the steering box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 that's why the nut should be screwed on a few threads. To stop the steering wheel flying off? the upper & lower UJ's are different & should be fitted to their correct places, the central shaft has one arm longer than it's mate, the longer shaft should be nearest the steering box. I have the central shaft on the right way - as you say. What I mean is as I see it the splines on the pump and on the steering column have no locating feature so in theory the central shaft/UJ assembly can be fitted in any position - does it matter in what position it's fitted is what I'm worried about. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Are you saying whoever did that nut up last, did it far too tight? First time I've had the wheel off. He is suggesting leaving the nut on a few threads when removing it, stops it flying off and hitting you in the face. If your tool allows this of course I have the central shaft on the right way - as you say. What I mean is as I see it the splines on the pump and on the steering column have no locating feature so in theory the central shaft/UJ assembly can be fitted in any position - does it matter in what position it's fitted is what I'm worried about. Cheers The whole shaft rotates through 360 degrees in operation, so I would imagine it makes no different on orientation at all. One that makes it easy to access the clamp bolts might be an idea though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 He is suggesting leaving the nut on a few threads when removing it, stops it flying off and hitting you in the face. If your tool allows this of course Will bare that in mind next time the steering wheel needs to come off. The whole shaft rotates through 360 degrees in operation, so I would imagine it makes no different on orientation at all. One that makes it easy to access the clamp bolts might be an idea though Thanks, that's just the reassurance I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverbo Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 From this topic and other information I've found there seems to be lots of ways to do this. ..... Would this be a satisfactory way of checking adjusting the tracking? Any comments/suggestions most welcome! Hi Spearos, I made a tool to get the tracking more precise...IMHO a tolerance between 2mm toe-in and 2 mm toe-out can make the difference...see the pictures in this string.. My link Regards Bo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Hi Spearos, I made a tool to get the tracking more precise...IMHO a tolerance between 2mm toe-in and 2 mm toe-in can make the difference...see the pictures in this string.. My link Regards Bo Thanks Bo, great idea! For now though, the washing line will do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 To stop the steering wheel flying off? YES otherwise you'll be at A&E with Nige I have the central shaft on the right way - as you say. What I mean is as I see it the splines on the pump and on the steering column have no locating feature so in theory the central shaft/UJ assembly can be fitted in any position - does it matter in what position it's fitted is what I'm worried about. Cheers splines are on upper column & Steering box not the PAS pump, if fitted incorrectly the lower assembly might jam on other parts in the area.& as it's a collapsible assembly it might not work [collapse properly] in a big accident. the spline only have a groove for the UJ clamp bolt to pass through, if not fitted correctly the bolt holes on UJ might not align in the right places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 splines are on upper column & Steering box not the PAS pump, if fitted incorrectly the lower assembly might jam on other parts in the area. But as Retroanaconda said the lower shaft rotates through 360 degrees, so surely if it was likely to hit another part, it would do it irrespective of what position it was fitted? Would anyone be so kind and post a pic of the position of the lower shaft with the wheels in the 'straight ahead' position? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 This shows it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 This shows it Spot on! It appears I have fitted the lower shaft on my vehicle in a very similar, if not identical position. Many thanks for that pic Retroanaconda, and thanks for your help Western. Done a decent amount of miles this morning and all seems fine, so fingers crossed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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