DiscoSkill Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Hi All, This site has helped me loads from, cambelt change to swivel pins but I'm looking for someone in the kent area who could do a bit of welding for me. My boot floor is in a bad state and needs to be replaced. Also might need a bit of patching on the front door pillar at the bottom. I've already ordered the new boot floor and support brackets. I'm not looking to get into welding anytime soon so just want someone to do a nice quick good job for me. Obviously willing to pay. Alternatively does anyone know of any specialists or garages with reasonable rates for this job. I'm based in the Canterbury area but will drop her off anywhere in kent. Thanks for looking. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnL Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 As the boot floor isn't structural it doesn't need to be welded in place so rivets are a viable DIY option. There's still a lot of dismantling, cleaning, painting and drilling to do but nothing too difficult. It does need a lot of rivets and using an air riveter makes it so much easier. There are a few articles on it and here's just one of them: http://overland-rovers.com/ralphs-pages/repairs-and-ongoing-maintenance/182-boot-floor-replacement.html Another advantage of doing it yourself is, as you'll see in the article, having the old floor out gives you good access to those areas normally hidden from view permitting you to de-rust and paint everything before it gets hidden again - something a welder probably wouldn't do. Cheers, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 If it's anything like most of the floors I have seen, you will need to replace the Z-sections along the edge of the floor -these should be welded in in all honesty, especially if you want it to last. I got my boot floor edges from ebay, weren't expensive, I expect YRM metal solution do them too. Once I had done that, I got an early Rangie aluminium floor and rivited that in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoSkill Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 I've attached a couple of pics of the boot. Sides needed aswell then? Still not going to be able to weld those in place so back to square one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
task Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 YRM will sell you the complete side cheeks, might not be needed but the "z" mounts almost certainly will. If you're going to rivet it then get some sealer/adhesive on there too! I used tiger-seal on my RRC boot floor. I'll get some photos up soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Yes, sides needed as well, while you are at it, might be worth looking very closely at the rear body crossmember, which have a habit of deteriorating very quickly, but is much easier to fix with the floor out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
task Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 oh dear, I missed the photos! Yes, sides needed as Bowie69 says. YRM panels don't come cut to length or profile so you'll have to cut them accordingly. As mentioned, check the rear X-member but you'll be needed a welder to replace that part, not rivets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoSkill Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 Thanks Guys, Those YRM panels are a good price, £16 compared to nearly £50 for precut sides. I think I'd like the whole lot welded, need her ready for a trip up to the Orkneys at the end of July so I need someone to do the bulk of the work, I can spray it and everything afterwoulds. Just need someone to weld all the parts in place. My local garage has never done a boot floor on a disco before so I'd prefer for someone with experience to do it. I'll keep looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 If worse comes to worse you could prep it and get old one out....if you bolted floor instead of rivets to z edges off car, then got garage to just weld z pieces on, your halfway there...this is what I'm planning to do myself...I would honestly be aware of the rear cross member....its madness not to really do this whilst floor is out imo....I wouldn't worry to much about taking it easy to the garage with no floor....just drop a sheet of ply in lol.... My last advice is why do you own an old un and not a welder...u welding can be a very cheap form of repairs if you DIY..seriously, a gasless and auto darkening mask and u are laffing... Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barmiebrumie Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 Pity your so far away as I do quite a lot of welding on these nowadays, in fact welded a rear crossmember & centre chassis cross member last in a 97 Disco John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road Toad Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 Just like to point out that the boot floor in a disco IS considered structural in a disco and HAS to be fully seam welded into place, if your in doubt about this then go and ask vosa to have a little look at your pop riveted floor. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 If it's anything like most of the floors I have seen, you will need to replace the Z-sections along the edge of the floor -these should be welded in in all honesty, especially if you want it to last. I got my boot floor edges from ebay, weren't expensive, I expect YRM metal solution do them too. Once I had done that, I got an early Rangie aluminium floor and rivited that in place. Did you need to source the ribbed rubber seal that fits over the end of the floor by the rear x-member or did you do something different? Got an ali floor waiting so assessing the job.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 For that I used copious quatities of black silicon sealant, seems to have done the job nicely, I took the floor out recently and it had sealed really well. Any builders silicon would do nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 For that I used copious quatities of black silicon sealant, seems to have done the job nicely, I took the floor out recently and it had sealed really well. Any builders silicon would do nicely. Cool, ta. Can you PM me a piccy of the floor in situ especially around the area we are talking about....? ta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Nah, why PM, much better for all to see Before the floor going in: After, note the black silicon along the back edge, kept all the muck out quite nicely, and came apart OK as it didn't adhere too well to the deliberately slightly dusty underseal on the underside of the ali floor: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Cool! Wanna do mine?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravelTed Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Hi All, This site has helped me loads from, cambelt change to swivel pins but I'm looking for someone in the kent area who could do a bit of welding for me. My boot floor is in a bad state and needs to be replaced. Also might need a bit of patching on the front door pillar at the bottom. I've already ordered the new boot floor and support brackets. I'm not looking to get into welding anytime soon so just want someone to do a nice quick good job for me. Obviously willing to pay. Alternatively does anyone know of any specialists or garages with reasonable rates for this job. I'm based in the Canterbury area but will drop her off anywhere in kent. Thanks for looking. Josh Hi Josh I did my disco floor last year and it was rotten around the Z plates as well and needed a lot of patches around the floor surround, I knew a guy local to me that collects old discos and breaks them, talked to him and got the floor, supports and he cut it all out for me with lots of overhang so no patches were required just a bit of cutting to get the floor to fit. riveting does work as the floor is not structual, I welded mine as I have the equipment and capabilities. look around your local area for landrover breakers, talk to them and see if they can supply you with good second hand floor and surround. mine cost me £15 total. good luck and hope you get a result soon. Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Cool! Wanna do mine?? No chance, got far to much else on my plate -like bobtailing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 Just like to point out that the boot floor in a disco IS considered structural in a disco and HAS to be fully seam welded into place, if your in doubt about this then go and ask vosa to have a little look at your pop riveted floor.Steve Boot floor should be replaced like-for-like (at least spot welded). Seam weld is obviously better as spot welds are the reason panel joints rot away. If you rivet the floor in, then you are chancing it with the MOT tester knowing what he's looking at (not that he can see much of it apart from underneath on the passenger side). Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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