damanic Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 I will be taking the landy from london to bournemouth for a week of work and on the way I pass the galvenisers. So Im thinking what if I drilled off the caps off the back of the rear tub and handed them to the galvernisers on the way. I save 50 quid in pick up/delivery service charges and can pick them up on the drive back. Would the tub be ok without the cappings for the remaining 2 hour drive there and 2 1/2 hour drive back home? It will be static once it gets to bournemouth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazza Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 I will be taking the landy from london to bournemouth for a week of work and on the way I pass the galvenisers. So Im thinking what if I drilled off the caps off the back of the rear tub and handed them to the galvernisers on the way. I save 50 quid in pick up/delivery service charges and can pick them up on the drive back. Would the tub be ok without the cappings for the remaining 2 hour drive there and 2 1/2 hour drive back home? It will be static once it gets to bournemouth. I dont think that will work cos the side panels will not bolt on properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 He means the vertical ones at the rear of the tub I presume. Should be fine, you'll have to unwire the lights and then re-wire them in again afterwards, but the panels are all spot-welded to each other so won't be going anywhere! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 you could put a line of duck tape so it inst so noticeable by the old bill, you no what there like!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damanic Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 yeah I just want to take off the corner caps and the small steel capping/plates either side of the back door. One of which the door hinge passes through, but without the spare wheel the door is very light - shouldnt be a problem there.. i hope! I have a new pair of the large L shaped cappings that fix the sides to the tub so those will be getting done while the old rusty ones continue to hold the roof and sides on as best they can!! So ok seeing as no one seems too shocked at the thought... this weekend I'll get some rivets, drill out the cappings.. if it looks dodge under there I'll rivet them back on. If the spot welds look good and corrosion hasnt weakend things too much I'll chance it and take the drive without the cappings! Some tape to cover the bare corners may not be a bad idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damanic Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 are the same size rivets used for the large L top cappings and all the steel plate cappings on the back of the tub? Aluminium closed blind should be right... anyone know diameter/size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 It'll be absolutely fine - the tub side and rear panels are spot welded and the capping adds little strength; it's more of a finishing strip to hide the joint, keep the rain out (yeah!) and give a little extra stiffness to protect the panels from buckling from minor knocks. You've done the sensible thing of removing the spare wheel from the door while the cappings are off, so should have no trouble. Just make sure the lights are all correctly fitted and working to avoid any police entanglements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 5mm dia rivets, 20mm long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 i have just striped my rear tub back.. you will be absolutely fine just taking those corner bits off. Its all spot welded anyway as mentioned wont move anywhere. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 I drove mine while the cappings were being galvanised last year, no problems (apart from having to remove & refit the lights etc). I was anoyed as I had only just removed the 7-pin socket and I could have rigged up the trailer board instead, this would have saved having to fit the lights on a temporary basis. Don't know if yours is a 90 or 110 and how many of the cappings you are having done but if you are having them all done (mine came to seven individual parts) it shouldn't cost you more than £25 which is probably the minimum charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damanic Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 thanks for the info. I was going to drill them off today but thunderous clouds appeared and washed the oppertunity away. Litch did you get yours shot blasted and galvanised for 25 quid!? The place I contacted does a 100KG for 85 quid (minimum) 35 quid an hour for sandblasting. Would be interested to know where you got yours done. For 25 quid I could have them couriered to and from and still it would be cheaper than my current option! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MenditV8 Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 I'd be interested in a recommended place for galv work too please. My cappings are desperate for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 I use East Anglian Galvanising in Sawtry, Cambs, they are only about 40-miles away from me so I drive up there rather than post or pay them to collect. That said they have quoted me £50+VAT to collect & drop off my bulkhead when I have that done in the near future (with it off the vehicle I will have no way of getting it there). My swingaway carrier is there at the moment and I hope to pick it up tomorrow or Friday. Their minimum charge is £25+VAT for 25KG and then I think they said 40P per KG over this weight(???). Last year I had all my cappings, a Toylander bumper, a pair of box-section bumperettes, the tailgate catches & inner panel done for £41 inc prepping & VAT which I thought was great value. Blasting is done off-site and costs more, none of my items have been rusty so they just need burning off (in an acid bath) before dipping and I have been really happy with the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Picked up my swingaway carrier today and I have to say that I am mightily impressed (again). All six items (the main carrier arm, three pivot points, tubular link to the rear door and the interior strengthening plate for the top mount) had been prepped and dipped leaving a good finish, all I have to do now is drill out the holes, re-tap the threads for the grease-nipples and bolt it back on again. The job was first class (as was to be expected) and the price was £14.99 inc VAT, I asked about the minimum charge and they said that they have currently dropped it. It would have cost me the same to strip and paint it myself! Don't think this is some small back-street set-up, they moved from Peterborough 2-years ago into their brand new £6M plant. The area at the rear where you drop off and collect your items from is alive with forklifts buzzing around while payment is made in the plush offices at the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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