Phillis Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Evening all, What tools do you need to change an axle? What size sockets? Spanner? Easiest way to remove/ refit? Is it just a bolt on the diff flange to change it? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy V8 Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 all depends which axle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Angle-grinder and Fire-Axe! In my experience you'll need either/both to separate the 'hockey stick' arms from the rubber bushes on the axle. It's quicker/easier to cut and replace than to spend frustrating knuckle-bloodying hours trying to drift/pull out reluctant bolts from bushes. And new bits always go together in a really-satisfying way. --Tanuki. "Badgers? We don't need no steenkin' Badgers!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillis Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 Changed bushes last year, but my old axle has given up, Drum brakes need doing, so just sourced a discovery axle, which has everything removed just need to remove my old axle but wondering what size sockets i need, and what spanner/socket for a bar etc cheers Also its got polybushes on it atm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briarston Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Nut on the "A" frame ball joint might be the hardest part. Make sure you support the LR securely. Swapped mine alone and unaided without much difficulty. Can't tell you socket spanner sizes though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14815&hl=polybush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Evening all, What tools do you need to change an axle? What size sockets? Spanner? Easiest way to remove/ refit? Is it just a bolt on the diff flange to change it? Cheers Basic tools really. Sockets/spanners, breaker bar etc., prybars are useful, jacks/stands, normal stuff like hammers etc. Sizes that come to mind are: 30mm trailing arm to chassis nuts 24mm I think for the trailing arm to axle nuts/bolts 28mm rings a bell for the a-frame arms to chassis bolts/nuts 30mm spanner for the a-frame ball-joint nut 11mm for brake lines As for method, I cheat and use a forklift/crane allowing me to leave the wheels on and roll it out, but the method in Nige's link above works quite well if you don't have that facility. Replace all the bushes while under there and the ball joint as well unless you know the history of them. Do up the bolts/nuts with a torque wrench, or failing that I go for VFT on the suspension linkages! Just make sure the bushes are settled first by jumping on the bumper a bit before tightening up. Might be worth giving the rear chassis area a clean up and coat of paint while you're under there, but don't let it turn into a rear-end rebuild like mine did! I'm afraid I can't help re. the pinion flange. There are several different types I believe, so your best bet would be to find the age/VIN of the vehicle it came from and buy a new one based upon that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 I'm just waiting for some disco axles to be delivered and I belive the only thing that needs changing is the diff drive flange and it can be a bit stubborn so a puller of sorts might need to be used, there are links in the tech archive like HFH has posted. Might be worth checking/replacing your A-frame ball joint too while you have access to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 I constructed a small C-shaped trolley out of hollow section steel. The trolley sat at approximately the height that the axle usually sits on its wheels and fitted castor wheels on all four corners. The C-shape was made purposely in order to leave an end open to slide a trolley jack in and out of position as required. The diff nose rested on the closed end of the C. I managed to change both axles in a long day totally single handedly. The only help I required was to bleed the brakes (I never go the eezi bleed to work well, otherwise I would have managed without help from third parties). If I remember correctly, the A frame ball joint was a real bitch to remove. I removed it by removing the wheels and shock absorbers to help the axle hang down as far as it could and put maximum stress on the ball joint. Then I levered A-frame using an old front radius arm and gave it a single almighty wallop with a lump hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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