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Reading ABS fault codes?

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Hello,

I don't normally frequent the Freelander part of the forums, but today I solicit advice...

A family member has a Freelander 1 which has thrown the ABS/TC/HDC lights on the dash.

I've checked the brake pedal switches and the HDC switch and they appear fine.

Is there a way to get the WABCO module to show the error code via blink codes on the Freelander or am I going to be looking for someone with a Hawkeye?

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I have a Hawkeye if you've got the airplane ticket! :D I don't think you can get blink codes but I could be wrong. Before going the diagnostic tester route, perhaps look for the obvious:

1. Tyre diameters equal? Variance will trigger ABS issues.

2. ABS Sensor connections all good? They all have a 1/2" round x 3" long plug within a couple of feet of the hubs. The front ones are, from memory, passenger side under the ECU housing and drivers side near the coolant tank. These plugs can become separated if other work has been done around them.

3. No mud or dirt around the inside of the hubs? Can block sensor inputs.

Ray.

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I have a Hawkeye if you've got the airplane ticket! :D

I'll start packing... :D

I don't think you can get blink codes but I could be wrong. Before going the diagnostic tester route, perhaps look for the obvious:

1. Tyre diameters equal? Variance will trigger ABS issues.

2. ABS Sensor connections all good? They all have a 1/2" round x 3" long plug within a couple of feet of the hubs. The front ones are, from memory, passenger side under the ECU housing and drivers side near the coolant tank. These plugs can become separated if other work has been done around them.

3. No mud or dirt around the inside of the hubs? Can block sensor inputs.

1) Tyres are pretty much equal all around, I doubt they're causing an issue.

2) I'll take a look at these. Any idea what the resistance reading of a good ABS sensor is? I might as well separate the plugs and throw a meter across the sensors.

3) I'll check.

Thanks for the ideas so far.

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You don't just need someone with a hawkeye.

Anyone with a decent diagnostic tool will be able to read the codes.

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You don't just need someone with a hawkeye.

Anyone with a decent diagnostic tool will be able to read the codes.

If there's anyone nearby to Stone who can read the codes for me i'd be obliged.

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For the mods...

Would it be possible to start a thread on locations of people with diag equipment? for forum members to see only?

1. Martin - Belfast ~ Autoboss V30

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Checked the sensors and their connectors today and they seem fine.

All sensors read between 1050 and 1175 ohms which is what I saw on my TD5 when i chased an ABS fault down, so expect them to be ok.

No mud or debris to speak of anywhere near the sensors.

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Checked the sensors and their connectors today and they seem fine.

All sensors read between 1050 and 1175 ohms which is what I saw on my TD5 when i chased an ABS fault down, so expect them to be ok.

No mud or debris to speak of anywhere near the sensors.

Sorry, I can't think of anything else obvious so I guess you're down to getting the codes read. At least you've covered off the pedal switches and other basics which is more than many owners do. hope you track it down.

Ray.

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Checked the HDC switch on the gearstick?

You should be able to give the ABS block/pump a basic check (does it prime) if you look in the RAVE manual it may well tell you more.

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HDC switch was one of the first things I checked, and it seems fine.

ABS itself does engage when provoked so i'm hoping it is something simple (read not expensive).

If I get some time over the weekend to load up an emulator i'll take a look at the rave disc and see if it sheds any light.

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If its a petrol one with a throttle cable make sure there is plenty of free play on the cable,or that the butterfly isnt sticking.This is a common issue,but it does need clearing via Testbook or similar.But really you are only guessing and many of the faults can just be bad hair days but still will need clearing before the next MOT.

Most independants will read / clear code for a sensible price,then at least you would know what was wrong.Plus if you completely dissconnect the ABS ecu after the codes have been cleared you can then drive it home to repair it before reconnecting it again.During this time you WILL NOT have ABS/TC/HDC function,but it will save the cost of having it cleared again.

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It's a TD4 with the post 2001 ABS configuration.

It's looking like it may well be a trip to an indy. Unplugging the ABS is a bit of a pig as the connector on the valve block lives under some pipes.

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It's a TD4 with the post 2001 ABS configuration.

It's looking like it may well be a trip to an indy. Unplugging the ABS is a bit of a pig as the connector on the valve block lives under some pipes.

OOPS !!! Sorry - been a long day with a Disco 3 V8..... I'd forgotten that 01 on cars had the ecu built onto the bottom of the modulator unit.Unplugging it would cause a load more problems as the can bus from the instrument pack goes into it then onto the engine ecu and autobox ecu if fitted.So back on track,you really do need to get it read,thinking back the longitudinal accelerometer,(Apologies if spelling is not 100%,end of week wine is not helping me) under the central cubby by the handbrake is also a bit of a problem on these.They need calibrating after fitting with Testbook or similar too.But the upside is they are easy to fit and any decent place should fit one and sort it for a reasonable amount.

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you still looking for someone with a code reader and if so would that be stone in staffs???

Yes, and yes :)

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Give liveridge 4x4 a call based near j3 m42 they have Autologic diagnostics and can read any LR right up to 2012 theyshould get to bottom of it ;0)

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