tuko Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 I'm at the final stage of prep and planning for my power steering conversion. While reading the suggestions from many, including Difflock the drag link of 31" would be ideal for a series. BUT wait a minute, I don't have a standard series vehicle, it's a Hybrid with Defender axles. Out with the measuring tape I need in the region of 38"~39" long drag link. None of the suggestions that I've read so far are nearly as long as that. So I'm wondering since I have a P38 power steering unit, what is the length of the drag link on a P38? Will that do the trick from the P38 steering box to the Defender axle? Or should I look at a DII drag link instead? . . . . OR is there someone on this forum that makes custom length drag link rods? Open to all suggestions before I shift into high gear. Cheers, Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Why can't you extend a normal one? With sleeving & decent welding there's no reason not to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 That's what I did.... Series rod inside 80Series draglink.. No problems whatsoever.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 It won't be for PAS, but I will be needing to change my drag link length for a Defender axle swap. My plan is to use the adjustment section of a Discovery/RRC track rod to the 109's drag link. The threads will match (my drag link is metric) and there is no need for welding, so no MoT inspectors will raise their eyebrows at it (it has been said many times on other forums that welding steering components is illegal, though that is exactly how LR attached the steering column shaft to its worm gear). It should make adjustment easier, too. Would that work in your application? If my plan doesn't work, I'll be getting a local engineering shop to cut down a length of steel tube, turning the internal threads and slitting the ends, in other words making a custom length rod otherwise identical to the original. From my experiences with the local shops, I can't imagine it'd cost over £40-50, which is not far off the price of a new standard rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted November 26, 2011 Author Share Posted November 26, 2011 Welding is not my concern but rather the inspectors, so if I can match up a standard length rod that would eliminate any headaches. The adjustable sections, aren't they crimped on to the main tube? If it was a simple case of screw off and screw on then that sounds interesting if the total length is within the range I need. Does anybody have a P38 that could measure their drag link rod for me please? So far so good guys, thanks for the tips. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 i thought it was illegal to have welded steering components?? how about getting a piece of tube, and tap each end? then it could be whatever length you like, and you could have it like 4-5mm thick and ultra strong. you could get away with not using LH thread on one side too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted November 26, 2011 Author Share Posted November 26, 2011 It's not illegal to weld steering components, it's the inspector who determines if it's safe or not. I'm thinking along those lines to, making my own with the same thread pattern at each end. But I still want to see if it's possible to use maybe a P38 drag link. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 It won't be for PAS, but I will be needing to change my drag link length for a Defender axle swap. My plan is to use the adjustment section of a Discovery/RRC track rod to the 109's drag link. The threads will match (my drag link is metric) and there is no need for welding, so no MoT inspectors will raise their eyebrows at it (it has been said many times on other forums that welding steering components is illegal, though that is exactly how LR attached the steering column shaft to its worm gear). It should make adjustment easier, too. Would that work in your application? If my plan doesn't work, I'll be getting a local engineering shop to cut down a length of steel tube, turning the internal threads and slitting the ends, in other words making a custom length rod otherwise identical to the original. From my experiences with the local shops, I can't imagine it'd cost over £40-50, which is not far off the price of a new standard rod. If your using the standard steering relay you can use a coiler drag link, is the exact right lenght for use with coiler axles under a series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 @ToyRoverlander, so true as that is the setup that I have today. Still looking for someone who may have a P38 drag link that can be measured ??? Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 If your using the standard steering relay you can use a coiler drag link, is the exact right lenght for use with coiler axles under a series. Good to know - I haven't measured the difference in lateral position of the PAS box axis and the SIII steering relay axis. I plan to keep the steering damper on the drag link, so I'll have a look at Defender drag links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 i thought it was illegal to have welded steering components?? how about getting a piece of tube, and tap each end? then it could be whatever length you like, and you could have it like 4-5mm thick and ultra strong. you could get away with not using LH thread on one side too. I have heard the same thing, but Series LR steering column shafts have their worm gears welded on to the bottom of the main length with the splined top for the steering wheel - all of the torque you apply to the wheel passes through the welded joint to the worm gear. Series drag links with steering dampers are also welded, though the location and purpose of the weld is not safety critical.. The Discovery/RRC track rod adjustable section is just a section of hexagonal tube with a male and a female end. The male end screws into the track rod in exactly the same way as the rod end goes in its other end, just with opposite threads, and there are no crimps - the joints are all clamped in the same way as rod ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 Nick, "The Discovery/RRC track rod adjustable section" that your referring to, is that part number NRC 4700? Off hand, would you know long it is? Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 My apologies - my recollection about the adjustable section was inaccurate: it's a circular section tube the same diameter as the main part of the track rod.I have just checked the Discovery 200Tdi axle I have in the garage and the tubular section, including the part which is internally threaded to accept the rod end, is exactly 5" long, and there is a male threaded section that then screws it into the track rod similar in length to the rod ends' threaded sections (2.5-3"). That joint is secured with exactly the same type of clamp as the rod ends are secured with. That may make it a bit long for this application, but by cutting each end of the drag link and the female end of this piece down by about an inch (extent of internal thread permitting), that should give me the size I need. However, I'll probably just use a Defender drag link given ToyRoverlander's experience. I can't help with part numbers. Sorry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Getting a tube custom made should be to difficult, a good engineering shop should be able to do it. From memory the thread is 11/16 UNS 16tpi, a lefthand thread might be difficult to get but a right hand on each end is fine just makes adjusting the lenght more difficult. As far as welding steering component is concerned, manufactures can do this as they have quality controlled welding processes, it is a lot tighter with private people carrying it out as the quality is unknown, many people are more than capable of doing a perfectly good weld but equally I am sure people have seen welding that looks like a pigeon has been squeezed from a great height. A lot of clubs implement a zero welding policy to avoid potential arguments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Worth giving Gwyn Lewis a call as last time I spoke to him he had a pile of non-standard length Sumo bars in stock and he said he could also have them made up in any length you want http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page30.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 Worth giving Gwyn Lewis a call as last time I spoke to him he had a pile of non-standard length Sumo bars in stock and he said he could also have them made up in any length you want http://www.gwynlewis....uk/page30.html That advice warrants an email, thanks. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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