Tom Fall Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Hi Everyone, As you may remember from my questions about Gon2Far and Revolver shackles, I'm on a bit of a quest to make a seriously capable but still every day useable Series truck. One of the things that causes me problems is getting my spring hangers stuck in ruts, lifting my front wheels off of the ground. Ideally I don't want to put bigger tyres on, so what I'm considering is re-working the hangers. If viewed from the side the hangers have a downward facing lip, which currently acts as a plough and is difficult to force through mud. Is there any reason why I couldn't grind off the downward facing lips? Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 I suspect they're required to add strength / support the spring as it flexes. I prefer the Volvo style of reversing the U bolts, seems to make more sense to me as there's the minimum hanging down: You can also make a slider plate that bolts to the bottom and presents a less "catchy" profile, Tonk did that on his IIa many moons ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 How big a tyre are you talking? I run 235/85R16 and rarely are ruts an issue. If you run smaller then yes you are smaller than the majority. How about taking a different tack and fit a locker in the back. Mich less work and more insurance friendly than modifying suspension. Even just swap to a bigger set when off road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Fall Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 Been having a look around and found these actually...seems like a bloody good solution!! And tyre wise I'm on 225 75 R16's. Interesting that you're on bigger, did you have to trim the arches? Bear in mind I'm still on a 2.25 petrol so don't want to increase the gearing too much over stock!! Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Interesting spring plate design. No trimming 235/85R16 is the same as 7.50R16. Factory option size. You may find they rub the bottom of the rear tub on full flex. I have had 255/85R16 on mine without issue, on parabolics. A 2¼ should easily pull 235/85R16 if it doesn't then you need to look at your engine. It will give you a useable first gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Fall Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 Yeah, I like the idea of these for keeping the plates completely out of the way with nothing protruding below the spring. It's one less thing to catch on rocks/mud etc. Looks like the next set of tyres will be 235/85 R16's then!!! I'm sure my engine will pull it, was a rebuild from scratch, 040 overbore and 8:1 Gas flowed head. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 More info on those spring plates please............... I fancy a set.............homemade?? commercially available? G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 I fancy a set.............homemade?? Anything can be - get to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Fall Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 http://www.okoffroad.com/stuff-susp-uboltplate.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Interesting....I wonder if they need to be/are type approved for use in Europe, and what Insureance companies might say about it? I like the idea though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Fall Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 Yeah its definitely an interesting idea...gives us a little bit of extra clearance =) I've emailed the reseller in the states, and unfortunately they don't know when they will be back in stock. Might make something similar myself... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 HOW MUCH... i was interested till then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Evidently their press can't fold 1 bit of ~6mm plate they have to do two ~3mm bits and weld them together? Hmmm. Neat idea though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Interesting... The design of the U-Bolt Plates cradles the leaf spring in a channel. This helps keep each individual leaf positioned properly. Clearly BS.... There's a centre pin going straight through the leaves right at that spot.... where's it gonna go to?? These U-bolt plates are formed from two pieces of 10 gauge steel, laminated together to form one solid unit, with weld-in gussets. I guess I'm not the only one who sees a rustproblem in this idea...especially with all the salt they throw on the roads in winter.... I dunno.. doesn't seem like a very good idea I reckon.... Otherwise.... good way of keeping the ubolts from sticking out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 £88, plus a bit of extra shipping I'm sure.....not bad considering, but laminating 2 pieces of 3mm can't have any benefit over a single piece of 6mm, so I think FF is right, they need a bigger press! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 There is also the fact that it seems quite long and hasn't got the lead-in slope on the ends, which most other leaf spring hangers I've ever seen do. That makes me think there's a risk of the spring fatiguing at that point and breaking. Probably minimal chance, but just an observation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I just run standard plates. Cut off any excess thread. Near enough for me. I have M10 U bolts all round now as I kept stretching the smaller section imperial ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 i too had this problem at the LRMax off riad site, did everything the first and second day. but the third, once poeple had dug the track out, only on 1 section of hill, i didnt make uit up for this precise reason. which of course involved much embarrasment as a person who carnt drive at all and usually bends his 90 got up, just on the fact that he didnt have these plates sticking down and ploughing. would some skids welded on do the same job you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Would have thought so, on the leading edges of the spring plates, and shortening any excess U-bolt too, which is still on my list of jobs to do..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 well at the moment there is a large list of jobs for me to do, i need to get some parabolics back on asap. and sort out the skids, plus proper tyres again. just a thought could be wrong, dont the plates only have one edge lipped down? the front edge, if so the springs would be fine for fatigue at one point because thats how the spring is at the back. also im sure the lip could be reduced by a long way before it affected this anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 They fold at the shock mount end which stiffens the plate against the twisting load Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Fall Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 Discomikey: I was at LRMax too, though I didn't get a chance to sample the off road course as I was co-driver for the challenge truck display team. I find that my Dad can get through stuff in his 90 that I can't, simply because of the hangers. I think you're right in saying we could probably get away with removing a fair chunk of the front lip of the hangers. It surely doesn't need to be as long as it is? Because these guys are indefinitely out of stock, I'm going to add this to my list of things I want to build (along with swivelling front spring mounts a la Gon2Far). Most important thing on the ones I attached a link to....there's nowhere to attach the shocks. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 maybe you saw me then, i was part of the show team (setting up not the display team, this was just for fun) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Fall Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 I didn't see you do it, but someone did tell me a S3 like mine went over the car bonnets!!! I was quite jealous actually =P I had to be a bit careful though, I was towing a caravan back with mine!!! Was a bloody good little set up you guys did there, we had some fun on that...including me guiding someone over it blindfold with a radio headset!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 yes, i remember that bit. i had to drive that home 60 miles haha. i will admit though that i got a little stuck on top and terry had to push me off with his truck, all because i was worried about my diesel tank and didnt use my momentum the rear wheel was in the gap between the bonnets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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