dm90 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Hi All, my 300tdi disco broke down on the way home from work last sunday, had a look at it at the side of the road but cudnt figure out what the problem was so i eventually got it towed back home and started to strip it down to see what was wrong. Turned out the timing belt had stripped a lot of teeth. Got the new parts today and fitted them, put everything back on and went to start it but its not firing but will turn over fine. Im not sure but i think i may have set the timing incorrectly. Can anybody tell me how to correctly set the timing please? iv search for it but all i could reely find was a guide on how to change the belt. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Hmmm. I thought there was a couple of posts on here about this... How did you check the cam timing ? How did you do the injection pump timing ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Did you check if any of the pushrods were bent? Timing is set by aligning the mark on the camshaft gear with the mark in the casing, the mark on the flywheel with the middle of the wading plug hole (easier to see than the mark in the casing), and the timing pin in the injection pump. Loosen the pump pulley's bolts so the pulley can rotate independently from the pump, tension the belt, and tighten the bolts again. If that doesn't do it, something's broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davyd8899 Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 if it stripped teeth and stopped, then chances are somethings bent ie:- pushrods, valves. might be an idea to take the head off and have a look see at whats going off. bent valves wont sit correctly and bent pushrods will be glaringly obvious. if its pushrods bent its a easy fix, however, if you have bent valves then they need to be replaced and re ground in- not so easy!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dm90 Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 aye sorry forgot to mention that it had bent one of the pushrods, i replaced that today aswell. is there timing marks on the pump pulley aswell? i didnt see any when i was doing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 What had me over once was that the pin for the pump (or a 9 mm drill) sits in the 10 o'clock pos, rather than the 12 o'clock pos, like i asumed. It does actually fit in the 12 o'clock place, but obviously the engine wont run. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 What had me over once was that the pin for the pump (or a 9 mm drill) sits in the 10 o'clock pos, rather than the 12 o'clock pos, like i asumed. It does actually fit in the 12 o'clock place, but obviously the engine wont run. Daan 9.5mm drill... or 3/8ths if you like to work in old money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 I'll ask you again How did you check the cam timing ? How did you do the injection pump timing ? Very doubtful if a 30Tdi will do anything other than bent pushrods or broken rockers. The engine is designed for those parts to fail before doing other damage. The 300Tdi engine is very strong and can take a lot of nasty punishment.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 I've never heard or read of broken rockers, i've read of one occasion where a valve broke after the belt had been replaced and the engine had been left ticking over for 20 mins or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 I've had broken rockers after screwing up my camshaft, pretty much all power gone (1st low to get to the side of the road) and no more starting after that. I can't seem to find the pictures anymore, but it does happen. They get hit too until the pushrod starts to give way, and the next time it happens the rocker breaks instead of the pushrod bending. But you notice when those are broken So yeah, most likely pump timing is out a bit. A 9.5 or 9.6mm drill works well as a timing pin, the larger you can prod in there the better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Here you are VB. Mine when the belt shreaded. Less than 4.000 miles but look at the stud that the idler runs on... We weren't going fast. Less than 50MPH. No noise. The engine just stopped.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Mike... 50 in a landy is similar to warp 9 in a space ship!!!!! Nicely done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 I wasn't amused or impressed......I generally cruise at 60 to 65MPH 2,000 to 2,300RPM.... That engine is in a real state. Damaged crank where the oil pump gear fits....No4 bore glazed because one of the valve top hat caps broke causing high EGT on that cylinder....Small cracks in the cylinder head...I suppose after 30,000 miles the cracks are bigger..... I have anothe bottom half sitting to be looked at but I'd rather keep the original block. The end of this year will tell... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Good time to fit the bits to make it a 2.8....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 As we've nicely Hi-Jacked this thread..... The plan is..... The block I bought for the crank has been left outside with the head off and uncovered. The timing case has been broken to get the FIP off. The bores are rusted. How badly I don't know...... So when I've finished this present project, had a holiday I will have a look at the block, Yep the caran turns but stops. Wether that's because of the rust or it's hitting something I don't know. All I've done is put kitchen towell into the bores, fill the bores with oil and cover the thing up. Should I be boreing either block, then I'll see if I can go 60 tho oversize with the pistons..... The next question, should I balance or not ? That I haven't decided.....Remember the FIP has been optimised..... Doing this block makes sense as I can build it up, fit it to the car then fit a head...Time and tide will tell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 IIRC tdi pistons are +20 and +40. Balancing is worth it, so is getting the crank pins all ground to the same height, it'll run alot smoother. If you balance it, get a couple of clutch pressure plates done at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dm90 Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 Hi, when i first took the casing off i turned the bottom crank puley round sp that the key was in the 12 oclock position. the cam pulley markings were 180 degrees out so when i took the belt off i rotated it anti clockwise so that it lined up. i did the samr with the pump pulley, moved it anti clockwise a bit and then lockedit in place with a drill bit. have i done something wrong? if i have how can i sort it? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Yes and no.. Did you lock the flywheel ? That is important as even if the key looks to be right it can be out.. When you re-set the camshaft. Did you look straight at the markings, or from the top over the radiator. I've found that can let you set the cam a degree out. I use a mirror so I can see straight to the markings. Did you get the drill bit in the right hole in the casing ? Yep I've missed that myself. By the way..You don't need the front cover on the engine to run it to see it does start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dm90 Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 No i never locked the flywheel, yes i used a small mirror to line up the cam pulley. if the drill bit goes it at roughly 10 oclock then yes? but if you leeve the front cover off you cont put the drive belt on. will it still start without this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 the engine will run happily for a minute if you start it with the timing case open, i do so whe i change timing belts. If you have the rad out, it will tiddle oil all over the floor though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dm90 Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 thats fine havnt got the rad out. just away out to give it another go, hopefully get it this time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Hi Have you reset the valve clearances? and are all the little valve stem caps in place? Also , did you loosen the 3 bolts holding the IP pulley to the IP hub? - the pulley is slotted to allow correct tensioning of the belt with everything lined up , re-tighten once the tension is correct. Did you rotate the crank twice after fitting the belt and re-check the timing marks? Finally its better to rotate the IP only in the direction its supposed to run cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dm90 Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 Hi, yes i reset the valve clearances and all the wee stem caps are in place. i did that to the pump pulley aswell and also rotated the crank twice afterwards. started it and it started eventually and also sounds like its running on 3 cylinders, not sure if it is tho and alot of smoke out of the exhaust. anybody got any ideas what this could be? all the rockers and push rods are fine, pretty stuck as to what to check next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Could be a broken injector pump, a friend of mine had this happen on his 200, everything went well untill the pump started to trickle its contents on the floor.. A compression check would be a good idea if your happy the timing is correct, valve clearences are set correctly etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 sounds like the timing of the injector pump is out. Did you put a pin in the flywheel housing hole? Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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