PieEater3142 Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 I have been building up my project and it's got to be on the road soon. I have a Kingone winch on my 90 that I was going to swap over (might get a warn one day so will migrate the Kingone to the rear). I am looking as to how to control this from the cab - I have got a single pole mom-off-mom Carling switch and I have run three wires down to where the winch will be. Can anyone tell me how the three wires will go on? I have not looked inside the winch yet but assume it goes onto the solenoid and from the diagrams in the operators manual (http://kingonewinch.com/Product_info.aspx?Productsid=12&ProductsCateID=1631 - I have the TD-9.5C) I believe there are three spade connectors on the solenoid that controls the winch. Do these simply connect on to these spades? Also as an asside, does anyone know if I can move the solenoid off the winch to locate under the wing instead? Cheers, James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 As a minimum, you only need two wires to run between the switch and the winch - 'in' and 'out'. At the Winch end, the third wire is the ground for the solenoid pack. You could run this back to the cab if you wish, or just earth it at the winch to the same earth the winch uses. At the other end, the third is the common supply. This needs 12v. You can move the solenoid pack, you'll need 3 new cables to join the solenoid pack to the winch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Thanks Luke, much appreciated. Read somewhere you needed winch in, winch out and winch hot to be run to the cab. Ok so I've wired up my Carling wrong, seems I need to put a 12v feed into the mom-off-mom - assumed that the 12v feed was the third wire (winch hot). Whoops - easy enough to change though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 IIRC the centre pin on the solenoid was 12V, and the two others were the switched wires (on the remote). I wired this up straight to the carling switch, with +12V, and the two feeds out to the two other terminals. Make sense? IIRC the solenoid doesn't mind which way it is wired, ground to middle or 12V to middle, as it is just a coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Sorry, to clarify - I can get 12v off the middle spade on the solenoid? If so will leave wiring as it it and draw from the Winch. At least it means it will only send a signal when the winch has power if that is the case. Cheers for the info chaps, much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 I did, and fused it immediately, as it is unfused at the winch.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 How?! Do you mean you took 12v from the main solenoid supply, that powers the winch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 I may be mis-remembering, but I just took some three core cable, connected one to each of the spades, then by switching the middle spade to outer spades it went in or out. I definitely have a single 12v fused feed coming from the solenoid and running to the switch. This way the Carling switch will illuminate correctly when switched on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 HTH ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 That should help clear things up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 very handy, thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 as an aside its worth having another switch to control the feed to the in/out switch, to help accidental pressing and a bent bumper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 as an aside its worth having another switch to control the feed to the in/out switch, to help accidental pressing and a bent bumper! This is solved by feeding the in/out switch from the winch solenoid pack. Thereby if the winch isolator is not in there is no power to either the solenoids or the switch that would control them As above, a fuse between the solenoids (which are fed direct from battery on an unfused but isolator-equipped large diameter cable) and the in-out switch is a good idea. Otherwise you effectively have an unfused 12V feed into the cab when the isolator is in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Sorry, just to clarify, where can i take the positive feed (winch hot) i assume not the middle pin, are you suggesting striping back the input wire to the solenoid and using a feed from that with an inline fuse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Easiest way to power the in-cab switch is directly from the cut-off, which is typically also located in the cab. If you use a Carling, you can wire it so it lights up when the cut-off is active and the winch powered, so you're less likely to leave it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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