TheBeastie Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Hi. Am hoping someone has a good answer! Just fitted a MaxRaxx cycle carrier which has base that fits between towball and flange plate. Very nice strong kit but ... There is so much vertical slack/wobble between my flange plate and the slider rack that when trying to fit the upright in place I have had to wedge a screwdriver between top of plate and rack so I can hold upright back far enough to lock the pin in place; and when all is in place the slack at the bottom of flange plate and slider bar means that it all hangs backwards more than I feel it should. I am assuming mine is an original 21 year old Dixon Bate (but perhaps even a new one would be so sloppy). Any ideas for a way to improve this setup? I accept it may mean getting some new towbar parts. Thanks in advance for any suggestions Best wishes Malcy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 what do you mean by 'flange plate' ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Ah, OK. The large heavy piece of metal that the towball fits to and that moves up and down on the rack being fixed into position with a large pin that slides in sideways and is retained by an R clip. I always assumed that was its name but clearly it isn't!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I read somewhere the other day (was researching as I'm getting one of these carriers) that the solution that maxxraxx gave is to drill and tap the dixon bate sliding plate so a number of grub screws can be fitted to take up the slack between the sliding plate and carrier. Unless I'm mistaken there is also a sliding plate available from dixon bate that has two pins, that should have much less slop. I don't know if it will have less slop but logic says it should http://www.dixonbate.co.uk/spares/product.asp?PartNo=68248 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Here is picture to show. Not averse to idea of grub screws since I vvery rarely move the position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Another option would be to add a metal plate (a big square) the right thickness to stop the slop between the sliding plate and the 'ladder'. The plate could be held by the tow ball bolts and would mean no drilling or tapping required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Your Dixon Bate sliding plate doesn't look the same as all the ones I have seen, it looks to be a thinner gauge (6mm?) and the profile is different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 As above, Changing the slider plate (flange plate) to a two pin unit would help as they are very tight fitting with hardly any slack, I have a receiver hitch and to take the slack out I drilled a hole in the receiver and tapped it however over time the metal wore and there was slop in the hole so I welded a nut to the outside of the receiver this gave a deeper thread something for the bolt to hold on to. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 That does not look like an original DB slider plate to me. The DB ones have a radius on the corner. See here. In any case, a two pin slider may well be the answer to your problems. Your local farm supplies shop may well sell them - the two pin hitch is rated 5t (the single pin hitch is 3.5t) so it's preferred for commercial and agricultural vehicles. Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Ah, OK. The large heavy piece of metal that the towball fits to and that moves up and down on the rack being fixed into position with a large pin that slides in sideways and is retained by an R clip. I always assumed that was its name but clearly it isn't!! the bit the towball fits on is the Slider, the bit that bolts to chassis with the 5 sets of holes is known as the Ladder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 As above, Changing the slider plate (flange plate) to a two pin unit would help as they are very tight fitting with hardly any slack, I have a receiver hitch and to take the slack out I drilled a hole in the receiver and tapped it however over time the metal wore and there was slop in the hole so I welded a nut to the outside of the receiver this gave a deeper thread something for the bolt to hold on to. Jason. The above option works well on my detachable towbar. If you don't have access to a welder, you could always drill a hole through the side of the slider and the ladder and put a bolt through in the same way that your pin is. It would only be of use if your towbar is on that particular setting but is quick and easy to remove with a spanner. Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 That does not look like an original DB slider plate to me. The DB ones have a radius on the corner. See here. Agreed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 OK, thanks for all the responses. Seeing the pictures suggested does look as though it is not an actual Dixon Bate slider plate. Would I be right in assuming that the rack arrangement is probably standard? If so then getting a genuine DB two pin slider plate would look like being the best answer but would hate to get the plate and then find the rack was not right. Any thoughts on the provenance of the rack then, now that the slider plate looks dodgy! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 It looks like the ladder and bracketry still resemble DB stuff, just not the slider. Is there anyone local to you that has a genuine DB version? You could see if their slider fits then order one or buy a slider/pins and if it doesnt fit then send it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 OK, thanks for all the responses. Seeing the pictures suggested does look as though it is not an actual Dixon Bate slider plate. Would I be right in assuming that the rack arrangement is probably standard? If so then getting a genuine DB two pin slider plate would look like being the best answer but would hate to get the plate and then find the rack was not right. Any thoughts on the provenance of the rack then, now that the slider plate looks dodgy! Thanks The ladder looks standard, just go to a farm shop or DB parts supplier and ask them if you can try one. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 I would hazard a guess at it being an original DB ladder, but someones either lost the slider, or bought a ladder without a slider, and had a local fab shop bend something up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 OK, thanks for all the responses. Seeing the pictures suggested does look as though it is not an actual Dixon Bate slider plate. Would I be right in assuming that the rack arrangement is probably standard? If so then getting a genuine DB two pin slider plate would look like being the best answer but would hate to get the plate and then find the rack was not right. Any thoughts on the provenance of the rack then, now that the slider plate looks dodgy! Thanks the ladder part on rear crossmember looks exactly like my genuine DB unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 OK Thanks for the helpful confirmations. I will go hunting for a local farm shop - or at least make enquiries. Confess to never having noticed one around Edinburgh area :-) Help, as always, much appreciated Malcy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 Let us know how you get on please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 OK, tried one place on Friday but do not stock - suggested Indispension. There is one in Edinburgh so planning to try and look in during the week. That might at least confirm absolutely that a DB slider will fit. May end up web order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 This is the cheapest I've seen it http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/17227/DA2118-TOWING-EQUIPMENT-2-PIN-SLIDER-BRACKET.html It seems to be listed under DA2118 more than 68248 (which is the dixon bate part number) but I'm not sure if that includes the extra pin or not. I'm guessing that it doesn't in which case you will also need DA2197 (R-clip) and DA2196 (pin) again all seem cheapest from lrseries even cheaper than Dixon Bate themselves even though lrseries are supplying genuine Dixon Bate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 Thanks. I have just now ordered from LR Series. As you say a good price and I like them to boot. Far rather support "the community" than a random motor parts place Appreciate the tip. Malcy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 I had a very sloppy slider, even with a new pin; it rocked about and made a noise on bumpy tracks, not good when towing horses. So, rang Dixon Bate and they said, yes they do vary, and suggested either wedging it or run some weld down the each side of the inside of the slider where the ladder hits - which I did, and then fettled it with the grinder till it was a much tighter fit, and the pin just fits in each hole. The welding doesn't have to be wonderful, or huge, just something to take the slack out. You have to 'adjust' it with the grinder anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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