disco_al Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 In the next 6 weeks or so, i'm planning to swap my 98 disco 1 body onto a better chassis (off my 94) Now i've done some googling and not really found a definitive answer on how best to lift the body. Various opinions have appeared, including lift it slowly, add spacers between body and chassis then strong timbers across the sills (with some more timber to spread the weight away from the sills) and strong timbers through door frames (with slots cut so as to not damaged the seal lips). What are the best options? I'm personally edging towards the beams through the door apertures. Lifting it is not a problem as i have access to a Merlo telehandler, and we plan to use the 94 body as a "test bed" anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisW70 Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Done it on a two post ramp with wood between the ramp arms under the sills - sills were a bit crunchy tho! Lifted off ok that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Interesting, problem... I'm going through the steps of replacing a lot of steel on my Disco 1 so I've been taking note of verious strengths and weaknesses in the body etc, and I think I'd agree with the sill lift scenario... when you look at how the roof is held on I'm not sure I would like to load test the welds at the top of the A and B pillars... No easy solution any way really, but I would want to lift from body mount area's if possible. Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 Sills were my initial thought as well. But then my brother pointed out that the A/B pillars from part of the safety cell, and so should be strong enough. we'll be testing the roof lift theory on my old disco first, which is being scrapped (as it's donating it's chassis), if it doesn't work, we'll use the sill method for the shell that needs to be saved, as really after opinions from people about the best/easiest method really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Sills were my initial thought as well. But then my brother pointed out that the A/B pillars from part of the safety cell, and so should be strong enough. we'll be testing the roof lift theory on my old disco first, which is being scrapped (as it's donating it's chassis), if it doesn't work, we'll use the sill method for the shell that needs to be saved, as really after opinions from people about the best/easiest method really. Aye, know what you mean it being the safety cell, but thats a rigid box I'd be a little sceptical at whether or not it could take multiple point loads... have you got any idea what weight you'll be lifting, that could help to put a few numbers out there to work out what forces you'll be seeing at each lift point (sorry I'm an engineer, oil and gas do everything in overkill....) I wonder about soft stropping it around the front bulkhead area and somewhere around the rear... then you avoid your point loads and spread it through out the whole body... need to be long strops like... something like boat lifting strops would probably work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 from what i've read, about 5-600kg in the shell with the trim in it. may strip the seats out of the blue one (leccy leather, so quite heavy) as well as anything else. may have been better removing it before the rust repairs - all those weight saving rust holes :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingnut Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Lifting on the sills with a two post lift is fine if the sills are good. If you have a spare wheel on the back door, remove it before you lift. When the body is up in the air out of the way, have a long transmission stand ready to put under the back end to aid stability. With a two post lift there is more weight at the back of the body than the front. Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan-taylor Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 windows out mate and then use steel bar section, place a small pece of 3x2 timer to spead the load in side window sill's. pics show timber but i now use steel instead. dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Holy Monkeys... fair enough.... how many times do you plan on doing it then...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan-taylor Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 ive just done a body lift on my own truck but used steel as i mentiond above.. dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy4x4xfar Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 jeeeese is it big enough lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimDay Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 Hi Al you any neare to starting the body change over yet Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 As above, I've lifted a RRC body off using the roof, in my case eye bolts in to the rafters and ratchet straps, but it worked fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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