Soren Frimodt Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Little things tend to take for ever, but that's why we do it right? To overcome those challenges Out of curiosity, are you going to be adding traction bars, panhard bars and disk brakes, seeing as it's going to be a fast-ish vehicle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 you mean... theres going to be a faster series than mine... jelous! really smart build so far. theres never normally much clearance between sump and propshaft, even with the TDI conversions. as long as theres around 10mm or more clearance at its closest is will be fine, as it will never hit. unless you have a crash and bend that lovely chassis. dont do that. will be following this with interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 Little things tend to take for ever, but that's why we do it right? To overcome those challenges Out of curiosity, are you going to be adding traction bars, panhard bars and disk brakes, seeing as it's going to be a fast-ish vehicle? Do you mean for anti-wrap? I wasnt going to put a panhard rod on as it is leaf sprung. Will it need one cos of the power steering? It is going to have a set of disco 24 spline axles going on at some point. They need taking off the disco and modifying first..... Ill do my best not to crash it! When I was looking at the diff movement I measure it only moves about 7.5mm but that didnt take into account any bump on both springs at the same time.... Jad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 I don't have a Panhard on my PAS 109, neither does FF, no problems yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 In that case I wont be having one! dont need the extra weight Just remembered y it took so long to get the tub on spent some time straightening the rear corners out.... Jad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Yes I meant for antiwrap, and the pa hard increases the roadholding immensely at higher speeds, recently worked on an old Daihatsu rocky which had one, we removed for better articulation, but it was felt immediately on the road. If I had the space on the 80" I would fit one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 As far as anti wrap is concerned I haven't currently thought about it. Im planning on using the standard Iron girder springs so was thinking it wouldnt be too much of a problem.... I think I will suck it and see re the panhard rod. If its a wee bit shaky ill see what can be knocked up. Having galved the chassis now though im not looking to modify it any further! Im not too bothered about articulation so that wouldnt be a problem. Cheers Jad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Soren - could the poor handling minus the panhard be related to which end of the spring the shackles are? As discussed during anti-wrap threads etc., putting the shackles at the front gives better climbing but worse handling, hence why LR switched to rear shackles. But a lot of trucks (some TLC's, SJ's, etc.) have them at the front, and owners do swap them to the rear. I remember this because someone was trying to persuade me to go front-shackle because of XYZ and I found an article from a US mag about converting to rear-shackle because of ABC I have to say if the steering is in good nick and well set up the handling should be bang on with normal springs, the 109 steers as well as a Disco or RR, bearing in mind it's on knobbly 37's it's surprisingly good. I have to say though that most people who put a V8 in a Series move on to thinking about better brakes fairly quickly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Yeeah okay, with standard multileafs you might not need a traction-bar that much.. Anyways, once you have the landy going, you could always fit one, same goes for the Panhard. Then you could fab up some brackets that could bolt to existing locations, so as not to ruin your lovely galva Oh dear Fridge, I fear getting into the discussion about shackle placement again, but I think you got it the wrong way around, shackles up front are good for road-manners, but poor for climbing, and shackles in the back good for climbing, bad for road-manners. When you think about it is quite logic, it is the same thing that makes a coiler bounce out the front-end when driving onto a steep incline. A great explanation is in this episode of Extreme4x4 (warning: American content) About 7 mins. in : http://www.powerblocktv.com/player/show_player.php?ep_show=XT&ep_num=XT2009-06 Anywho the Rocky has the shackles in the rear as well. I honestly don't know whether or not a Land Rover would benefit from it, but I'm keen to try at some point, you can always remove it again, right? Back on topic, lovely machining on that adaptor JAD, is that something you can do yourself via your job or did you have an adult help you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 i noticed today, when i was late from work for tea, and occasional other times it would be nice to have some sort of front anti roll system, as the rear wheel can lift up on hard cornering. also coming into my drive once or twice, as it comes out on a fast road just round a corner that when i am being "pushed" to get off the road in order to aviod a rear end hit, that my front inside wheel will lift as you turn on and drop down the bank. all things that ARB's would sort, but i dont want to put them onto mine, as i will loose articulation, AND i generally dont drive like a cock end anyway. when i eventually make my track day/hill rally series 3, then it will have Antiwrap, panhard rods, and ARB's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 also coming into my drive once or twice, as it comes out on a fast road just round a corner that when i am being "pushed" to get off the road in order to aviod a rear end hit, Don't be pushed Mikey, you takes your time and let them grumble behind you. At least if they rear end you its automatically their fault. In situations like that I usually avoid using the brakes, its amazing how soon they back off. ou takes your time coming off that road and save taking it too fast one day and lifting that wheel up too far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Oh dear Fridge, I fear getting into the discussion about shackle placement again, but I think you got it the wrong way around, shackles up front are good for road-manners, but poor for climbing All I'll say is Mr Van Snorkle disagrees and I'm inclined to believe his analysis of most things mechanical. On anti-wrap, I'm inclined to believe that any Series that's not standard (either more power, parabolic springs, or both) would probably benefit from it, but that most people would never really notice/care unless using their Series quite hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 You are of course free to have your own opinions on matters, as I am sure you believe I have. So thank you for agreeing on dis-agreeing so to speak Re: Anti-wrap, I do agree with you completely though, but I also believe that for the most part if people tried a leafer with it fitted, they would feel the benefits instantly. But as you say not all though, and if you just have an old trusty 88" for runabouts and love the simplicity and functionality of it, then there is no need. If it was dire important they would've probably fitted it from the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 id love to have at least rear anti wrap, but it would be hard to fit without degalvanising part of my chassis. maybe i can make a contraption that bolts to somewhere, like sort of an a frame, or double anti wrap bars that bolt to brackets made to bolt to the gearbox crossmember mount places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Mr Van Snorkle did all his chassis mods as clamp-on devcies, that would work on a galv chassis. If you search about a bit he did describe it in great detail and why it was such an excellent idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 ....i generally dont drive like a cock end anyway.... Not what I've heard from various sources Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 I had thought about making another cross member as a clamp on fixing if I require it between the front and gearbox cross member. Ill get the car built and then see how it runs before engineering any anti wrap parts. Jad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Not what I've heard from various sources how dare you... haha. from who exactly i drive fairly sensibly. i do, however use the power i have where safely possible.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 Back on topic, lovely machining on that adaptor JAD, is that something you can do yourself via your job or did you have an adult help you? I Spent a sunday afternoon making that for James, it was a joy to do because he made a very good CAD Model for me to work from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Another Update. We have started repairing and modifying the bulkhead to get rid of the rust and allow defender pedals to be fitted as I'm now using a defender clutch and axles etc These show the old foot well with the clutch pedal moved over to the drivers side as much as possible. I wanted a bit more room for the engine and to put the pedals a bit lower while keeping the steering column in the standard position. The old foot well was cut out. A new foot well was cut up and bent to be of a more defender shape and to mount the brake master servo slightly lower to fit under the wing/bonnet. The drivers side panel for the footwell was also made and both clamped on the bulkhead to weld them together. Thats it for now. Unfortunately I am busy for the next few weekends so nothing will be done for a while! Jad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Cool, great progress and craftsmanship, so looking forward to the first youtube film of this thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Hmmmmmm I wonder if Vulcan bomber can make me something else....... Got any of the material left from making the engine/gearbox adaptor??? Cheers Soren. I cant wait either! but think im going to have to for quite a while Jad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 I probably could make it, however my land rover currently has its guts all over the floor again, and some work to do on EJP's 109 and I have a baby due in 4 weeks... Kinda got my hands full. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 ...and by the sounds of it The 109 keeps finding more work for you to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted September 22, 2012 Author Share Posted September 22, 2012 Today saw some more work on the drivers side bulkhead footwell. The inside of the bulkhead pillar was blasted today to get rid of paint/ rust etc before the footwell is welded together and then galvanised later on. Welding it together will happen tomorrow. And then on with positioning the clutch, steering collumn, brake pedal box and accelerator. Today I also fitted the steering pump to the engine. Unfortunately due to the size of the power steering pump pulley this clashes with the power steering box! So this will have to be spaced further off the chassis.... I also got hold of a radiator and frame thanks to vulcan bomber. This will have to be cut down as it sits next to the power steering box and then the radiator lengthened to give enough cooling for the engine...... Crosses fingers/big fan! Another update will arrive tomorrow! Jad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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