19MART82 Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 ive been having problems with drivetrain vibrations on my def 90 its got a 2" lift,correction arms front and rear and i fitted new wide angle props front and rear and running 35" bfg km2's today i went to remove 1 prop at a time to trace the vibration front or rear,on getting under i checked for play and found some play in both uj's on the rear prop,i also noticed there is some play in the rear output flange of the transfer box and its weeping a little oil,non of this was there a couple of weeks ago (but the vibration was and im presuming is the cause)and the props are virtually new (about a month old)and greased regularly with lithium grease,i removed the rear prop and drove it in difflock and the vibration was gone,the only thing i can think of is that... 1. the prop wasnt balanced correctly from new? 2. even though its a wide angle prop its still running at too much of an angle and causing vibrations? ive allways used wide angle on previous trucks and never had a problem but on previous trucks ive allways had aggressive tyres (silverstones ect) so may not have noticed heres a couple of pics too show the angle,any advice very appreciated as i dont want to fork out for a double carden if i dont need too,and as i said the vibration was there before the play in the ujs and out put shaft,and was there with the previous standard props Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Is it supposed to be out of phase? I know the front one is but I only know 110s and am used to the rear being in phase, and as the angles on each end look similar I wought have thought yours should be too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19MART82 Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 hi simon,the phasing is something that did cross my mind but it was bought new direct from a propshaft manufacturer,its still got the marks on and its not been seperated as far as i know,it has some yellow marks on it so im presuming its right,but if it has been seperated at some point and put back together and maybe a spline or two out could that cause vibration issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 That looks like a fair angle for a 2" lift on a rear shaft, I have a 2" lift and run 35" tires and dont think my angle on the rear is that bad. Mind you I have just replaced both props due to worn splines, Front had a fair angle so this time fitted a double carden. Can check if my ones are phased but I do think the rear should be about 30 deg - could be wrong though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19MART82 Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 hi frax,thats whats puzzling me to be honest as i know its normally the front prop that gives issues,and i had the same settup on my last defender and had no trouble,it could be the wrong springs have been supplied? this is the lift on the truck im having issues with... this is the lift on my last truck,supposidly same lift,same wide angle props,similar setup,no vibration issues at all.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 rear prop should have the UJ's in line [in phase] front prop should have the UJ's appox 30 degree out of line [out of phase] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19MART82 Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 another difference ive just thought of is on my last truck i had x eng rear ball joint arms so could slightly adjust the angle of the diff by adjusting the length,on this one ive got adrenaline cranked arms and you cant adjust the length,maybe the nose of the diff could do with tweaking up slightly??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19MART82 Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 rear prop should have the UJ's in line [in phase] front prop should have the UJ's appox 30 degree out of line [out of phase] i was typing last post while you posted,thanks western youve just answered the question that was in the back of my mind,maybe they have made the prop up thinking it was for the front,should i just seperate and align the knuckles or will it need balancing ect?would you say the angle the props running at is ok?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19MART82 Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 just been out and had a look,the front prop is in phase the rear is out of phase on mine,the front i bought from paddocks and still has the sticker on it "def 200tdi front 30deg extreme wide angle",there doesnt seem to be no vibration from that end though,i will put the rear prop in phase tomorrow and see how it goes and let you all know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 My std front prop is out of phase, but got put on the wrong way round. It vibrated and shuddered under accelleration until I turned it round. Confusing on front props as LR made two types Early (mine) has the sliding section at the front and later has it at the back. What I'm trying to say is, have you tried it the other way round? Most props cant have the phasing changed as there is normally a master spline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 I have a paddocks wide angle prop the same as yours which I have never split, would you like me to check how mine is phased? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19MART82 Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 thats an idea actually simon i'll give it a try tomorrow,boris if you have a minute and its not belting it down like it is here that would be great if you could,my front prop i bought from paddocks and thats in phase,my rear prop i bought from wilson driveshafts in notts and thats out of phase,looking at the picture though there is actually 2 marks,just wondering if the other mark is so you can change the phase for front or rear or something? weather permitting i'll have a mess about tomorrow and see what prevails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 No problem, I've got to get a few bits done on it tomorrow eve so can check for you at the same time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrovernuts Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 That prop angle looks far to steep in my opinion. I have OME springs on my 90 and while that is probably just under 2 inchs, the back prop angle is not as steep as that. I am inclined to say you have more than a 2 inch lift and may be worth measuring. Toby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 sliding joints should be at the transfer box on both props, without seeing your truck first hand, it's hard to make a informed comment, diff nose angle to high won't help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 sliding joints should be at the transfer box on both props, without seeing your truck first hand, it's hard to make a informed comment, diff nose angle to high won't help. Only on later props, Early ones are the other way on the front, can't remember when it changed but the garage which fitted my Ashcroft gearbox fitted the front one with the sliding joint at the rear, it should have been at the diff end. I only investigated because of the noise and vibration and discovered there were two different front props. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 If the suspension set-up is exactly the same on the two vehicles... how does the weight compare? the green one certainly looks lighter (less cage/winch etc). could be riding higher? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Only on later props, Early ones are the other way on the front, can't remember when it changed but the garage which fitted my Ashcroft gearbox fitted the front one with the sliding joint at the rear, it should have been at the diff end. I only investigated because of the noise and vibration and discovered there were two different front props. not what my defender workshop manual states, I have posted the page before in another thread about props. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19MART82 Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 thanks for the input fella's,weather permitting i will go through the process of elimination tomorrow,ive actually discovered another possibility now also,the back plate of the x eng brake is slightly bent and i noticed the caliper wasnt sitting parralel with the disk,it also didnt seem to move very easy on the sliders as due to the bend the bolts are now very slightly angled and trapping it,im wondering if the pads have been in contact it may have over heated at some point and slightly warped the disk,the x brake was allready on the truck when i bought it so will strip it down tomorrow and check it all over,need to find somewhere open to get a out put flange bearing and new uj's first though so i can eliminate any vibration from them,landroversforever your right in what your saying i should have been clearer,they both had 2" lift but the weight of truck/spring ib's were taken in to consideration,they should both be +2" but i'll double check tomorrow,i'll let you all know how i get on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 I had a genuine LR manual in the ring binders, which I managed to loose. It was the ninety and oneten manual with the defender supplement. It clearly stated two propshafts, one for LR 90-110 and Defender 200Tdi up to xxx and one for Chassis xxx onwards. Every 200Tdi and earlier I have seen or worked on has had the front propshaft the way I said from new. Having said that the genuine Manual I have now is a 1996 issue, but doesn't tell you which way round it goes. Though some pictures show it one way and some the other. Just checked Haynes as well for 90, 110 and Defender 1983 to 1995 and it clearly states "Ensure that the propeller shaft is refitted with the sliding joint towards the front of the vehicle (nearest the front axle)" which would seem to indicate that the change is around 1995-96. I think it's safe to say, if it vibrates and all the UJ's are ok. Try it the other way round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Stand corrected, Genuine '96 on manual says sliding joints at transfer box end. Need to find the old manual, but up to 200 Tdi should definately be the other way. Interestingly the 87 on parts book shows the front prop with the slide at the transfer box end and the rear prop with it at the axle end, so no two LR documents agree with each other anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 Mart sorry about the slow reply, just had a look for you and my rear prop is in phase. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19MART82 Posted December 30, 2012 Author Share Posted December 30, 2012 many thanks boris,i will also try the prop in phase,i think ive finally got to the bottom of this now though after i was given some sound advice from a fellow forum member on the phone last night, first job this morning i replaced the uj's on the prop,and i butchered the complete end of a mates spare transfer box to sort the output bearings/seal,when i went to remove the x brake and prop i noticed the caliper was sitting on an angle to the disc,removed this and found with a straightegde the back plate was bent,so put the disc and prop back on without the caliper/backplate,jacked a rear wheel up and got my mate to spin whilst i was holding a straight edge from the transfer box up to the disc,from that i found the disc was also slightly warped (strange really as i thought i would have heard grating/scraping noises),checked the prop in the same way and found that was running completly straightso then i removed the disc and cut up an old output flange to make a spacer and refitted the prop without the disc,took it for a drive and it was loads better but ther was still something funny thereso now i thought it can only be the out put bearings so stripped it down again and removed the full output houseing,on doing this i noticed the bearings inside had worked loose and were slack as a bag of knackers so tightened these back up and fitted the new output flange /housing,refitted the prop useing the spacer and leaving the x brake disc off,filled it with oil and took it for a drive,hey presto drives mint,so ive now ordered a new back plate and disc and hopefully the problem should be sorted,will also try the prop in phase too see if thet helps any Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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