western Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 similar postshttp://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=37131http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v8/Technical110PedalMods.htmhttp://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=43688 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I've fitted two of these now, and both in situ, it is possible if not quite tricky, I found taking one side at a time is the only way to do it, but with both springs I had to run a drill bit down the small plastic insert bearing things so the spring would seat properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 (edited) Reviving an old one.. I have 1987 110 with 200tdi. It has the long spring knee and hip busting clutch pedal Was looking to do the pivot bushes and thought about adding the clutch assist spring but now realise I have the older type pedal box. question is, can I change just the box for a 300tfi or newer or does the master cylinder need doing aswell ?? thanks edit.. apologies.. ignore the above. I re-read the post and there it is. Yep I can change for 300tdi box, cylinder and bolts the same . 😊 must pay more attention in class Edited February 17, 2021 by Chambo110 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Pedal assembly is a straight forward swap, clutch master cylinder is the same. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Thanks Ralph price seems to have shot up a bit since you guys done yours !! 😳 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Did mine in mid '94, when I had the first R380gearbox fitted. Haven't they just, https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/167355/5497/clutch_pedal_assembly___defender mine was 73.71 inc fitting & VAT 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 (edited) Might attack the clutch bushes today. so from the pic courtesy of retroanaconda. (Cracking site BTW) does it look like I don’t have to remove pedal box?? im thinking undo bolt 9 pull out pin 6 (careful not to lose) Pull out number 7 Pedal may drop slightly and lining all back up might be a trick, but will bushes pull straight out ?? looks simple to me. But then everything does til I start 🤬 cheers all Edited March 1, 2021 by Chambo110 Forgot pic ☺️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Well, found my answer.. no. alrhough removing pedal box was 10 min job. As with all these things.. 1 thing leads to another. Master cylinder is dribbling down pedal. Part ordered Back to original problem, I don’t have a bolt 9 ??? Looks like pin is just bashed in. So question is, how do I get that out please?? ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 looks like a long dome head rivet or mills pin, should knock out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Yep I think you are correct as usual. just had a change of mind. I’m upgrading to the better spring assisted version like you did. I thought about bashing it around but then remembered... I plan to do nc500 this year with the family. If I can save any knee pain it would be worth the extra cost watch this space for more questions 😂 Cheers Ralph 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 10 minutes ago, Chambo110 said: Yep I think you are correct as usual. just had a change of mind. I’m upgrading to the better spring assisted version like you did. I thought about bashing it around but then remembered... I plan to do nc500 this year with the family. If I can save any knee pain it would be worth the extra cost watch this space for more questions 😂 Cheers Ralph 👍 Didn’t expect to be back this quick, but does this fit ?? 284178466662 says it’s puma ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Yes that will fit, you can dispose of the long adaptor & switch, those are Td5/Tdci parts only. Chambo110, check my reply in the diff issues post to, info about radius arm width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 2 hours ago, western said: Yes that will fit, you can dispose of the long adaptor & switch, those are Td5/Tdci parts only. Chambo110, check my reply in the diff issues post to, info about radius arm width. Great stuff, just ordered. Ordered a new spring just in case 😁 yep, I did see you post about the measurements. But got sidetracked when doing pedal box. I will check that tomorrow while I wait on delivery. pretty sure your educated guess of 38mm is correct, I’ve read it somewhere thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 You may have realised now if you have received the pedal box that it is off a 2.2 Puma so the lower left hand bolt fixing is in a different place to allow for the different shaped 2.2 footwell. I would be fitting a LOF clutch spring to it at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 13 minutes ago, oneandtwo said: You may have realised now if you have received the pedal box that it is off a 2.2 Puma so the lower left hand bolt fixing is in a different place to allow for the different shaped 2.2 footwell. I would be fitting a LOF clutch spring to it at the same time. Hmmm ? I have got it and fitted the Lof spring. Spent the day tidying up the area. Might get a chance to fit tomorrow hopefully I’ll be honest I didn’t notice a difference. If you’re correct.. is it an easy fix ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 You will need to redrill the footwell for the lower left hand bolt and blank off the original hole. The pedal box is modified as the 2.2 footwell is a different shape to previous Defenders to allow room for the DPF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 On 3/7/2021 at 7:08 AM, oneandtwo said: You will need to redrill the footwell for the lower left hand bolt and blank off the original hole. The pedal box is modified as the 2.2 footwell is a different shape to previous Defenders to allow room for the DPF. Finally got round to fitting. Good news about the bolts..everything lined up with originals. Flushed all old fluid out and re filled and bled with no problems. question though, pedal sits at 143mm from floor. I can’t adjust the nuts on master cylinder rod any further. They are as close as I can get to the MC. on the test drive all works fine. No slipping. Clutch itself is probably only about 800 miles. So all seems good. is the pedal height a problem ?? also .. the long straight spring from old pedal looks like it can be fitted to this pedal, do I put both on ?? ps.. pedal is soooo much easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 You must’ve received a 2.4 pedal then! To be honest I have never paid much attention to the pedal height from the floor. I have just set it up so there is free play before the pedal operates the master cylinder. If you fit the long spring then it is kind of defeating the object of swapping the clutch pedal. The long spring is a major contributor to the stiffness of the original pedal set up 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharp Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 I've just been doing my pedal boxes today, before I realised I'd run out of paint anyway. I think it's meant to be 140mm from the bottom of the pedal pad to the floor so you're pretty close. I think you adjust the screw on the front of the pedal box (towards the engine bay) first and then adjust the nuts on the master cylinder. If you still have the old box you could slacken the bolts on the master cylinder and set the adjustment screw to the same length as your old one then adjust the pushrod. Mine also has the pin holding the pedal into the box but it was crooked so I didn't bother trying to take it out. Mike from Britannica Restorations has a video on setting up the nuts on the pushrods so there's the right amount of play. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 (edited) The Puma pedal boxes don’t have the pedal height adjustment screw on the pedal box like the older pedals, so the pedal height is less of an issue - they just have a pedal travel stop screw instead. Edited March 13, 2021 by oneandtwo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 1 hour ago, oneandtwo said: You must’ve received a 2.4 pedal then! To be honest I have never paid much attention to the pedal height from the floor. I have just set it up so there is free play before the pedal operates the master cylinder. If you fit the long spring then it is kind of defeating the object of swapping the clutch pedal. The long spring is a major contributor to the stiffness of the original pedal set up Got ya.. long spring won’t be fitted then. 43 minutes ago, Sharp said: I've just been doing my pedal boxes today, before I realised I'd run out of paint anyway. I think it's meant to be 140mm from the bottom of the pedal pad to the floor so you're pretty close. I think you adjust the screw on the front of the pedal box (towards the engine bay) first and then adjust the nuts on the master cylinder. If you still have the old box you could slacken the bolts on the master cylinder and set the adjustment screw to the same length as your old one then adjust the pushrod. Mine also has the pin holding the pedal into the box but it was crooked so I didn't bother trying to take it out. Mike from Britannica Restorations has a video on setting up the nuts on the pushrods so there's the right amount of play. I’ve changed pedal box.. gone is the original stiff knee cripler.. new box is the one with the “curly” spring not the straight one.. I’ve read one of Ralph’s posts in here somewhere that says old box should be 135mm for old style and 145 for new cheers fellas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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