Gremlin Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 Hi all, just a little tip to the people out there that wish to rescue thier swivels when either parts are obsolete or rather difficult to source, or just plain pricey. In my case i have stage one v8 axle which when i got had pretty poor swivels, so i went with the chemical metal route and applied this to them with sanding to smooth out the filler. This was about 8 years ago, so fast forward to this month. My left hand swivel started leaking like crazy, so it was time to investigate, i knew what i was going to find. The filler used in my first rescue had detached itself from the swivel! plus the oil seal was hard and stiff. Now since stage 1 swivels are like gold, i went with same route for repair, with a twist. After dismantling and cleaning i attacked the swivel with a die grinder (a bit unnerving), i opened up all the pitted rust marks, making them deeper. This way the filler material will have a better chance of holding on. I also cooked the swivel with a blow torch to cook all the gear oil and grease (thats after a bath in thinners) just to make sure is properly degreased. This is some thing i did not do first time round. For filler this time i decieded to use JB weld, its an epoxy based filler. i found that the chemical metal used on my first repair wore away with the seal probably due to seal harding up as well. So i jb welded the swivel, and sanded it down, with different grades of emery, to a final wet and dry sanding with 1200 grade. This time i also coated nearly all the swivel and left a very thin layer of filler. Well here are the pics (phone) of the sanded swivel (sorry no pics of the before) So here is a pic of the inside of a stage 1 swivel for the curious And finally the collection of bits, all clean and ready for reassembly. Assembled everything this weekend, and its leak free, now waiting for the other side to spring a leak!! It will get the same treatment. Hope someone finds its useful G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 Looks good! JB Weld is one of the better epoxy-putties: I've recently used it to repair a cracked carburettor float-chamber on a Lister "D" stationary engine - it's resistant to petrol/oil and sets sufficiently hard that you can successfully tap a thread into it. --Tanuki. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 They claim it's strong enough to repair cracked blocks. I don't know about that, but it's the best epoxy I've come across. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 Thanks for the tip Grem. I have reinforced Stage One swivels on my portalled truck that is starting to suffer from chrome worm that I'd like to rejuvinate some day. I think ordinary series swivel balls, with swivel bearing cup and railko bush shimmed out could be used on stage ones, as that is the only real difference I can detect between the two types, with the possible exception of material specification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 Hi bill, Yes you are right the only difference is the bearings are spaceed a little bit further, but the inside of the swivel is also slightly machined out to clear the cv. I will try to get a pic of the standard one i have laying somewhere in my junk pile. Should have taken a side by side pic. It seems you can get a replacement pair of swivels from heystee, they seem to have modfied standard ones or got replacements, not too pricey as you can get a pair for the price of a genuine one, but still more expensive then a standard one. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 I'm very impressed you got a thin layer all over. It does look the best solution. I tried and gave up rapidly when it all went lumpy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 Its not the quick drying one, you have ample time to apply it neatly, it sets after a couple of hours, and workable after 24hrs. I used a rubber spatula they used for body filler, which conforms to the shape you are filling. I was very pleased by the application as i was pretty easy to sand down as it was allready nice and smooth, it just needed to be thinned down and the edges feathered off to the metal. I should be good for another 8 - 10 years, i hope! G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexi Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 I have a spare set I was going to refurb. My idea was to deepen the pitting and then hit it with Mig brazing. I think that may rub down easier than weld. Does anyone think a coat of Epoxy primer and then 2 pack paint would work along with fitting gaitors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 I think paint will be too soft and will scrape off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 I was reading a thread where a guy used powder coat. (was it on here?). Either way up, all-metal with powder coating sounds good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 whats wrong with getting them chromed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 A friend runs a Series 1 off roader, with standard swivels machined out to take CV's I'm sure. He runs a 2.5petrol and an Lt77 and LT230, so permanent 4wd, the diff, shafts and CV are stage 1 I'm sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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