SmasherWebbs Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Right new pump, thermostat and rad fitted. Whole system flushed and heating matrix proven not to be blocked. And attempt after attempt to remove any possible air from system. Yet given a chance it will over heat on a run. I have even retro fitted an electric fan to the rad to help cooling. So I'm left with my head in my hands and no choice but to remove the thermostat and see if that works. Unless anyone has a good trick to prove the system is air free? Any other ideas? Thanks all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Right new pump, thermostat and rad fitted.Whole system flushed and heating matrix proven not to be blocked. And attempt after attempt to remove any possible air from system. Yet given a chance it will over heat on a run. I have even retro fitted an electric fan to the rad to help cooling. So I'm left with my head in my hands and no choice but to remove the thermostat and see if that works. Unless anyone has a good trick to prove the system is air free? Any other ideas? Thanks all What I have done in the past for both Classics and my P38 is to park it nose up on a hill and then try and get the air lock out. The bubbles are then rising to the radiator. I ave a nice hilly driveway to that is what I use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defv890 Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 What engine do u have ? Are u sure the head gasket is ok ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmasherWebbs Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 Right had the RR on the drive and up on ramps so rad bleed hose was with no argument at the highest point of the cooling system. Pulled the bleed hose off and sure enough there was air in the system. With the garden hose I shot water down the hose until the system was full. I also did this with the engine running from cold for a few mins just to be double sure. So I now take the RR for a quick spin to get it warmed up before its back on the drive to check. Dam the air is back and the system is under pressure. Not a lot but still this has confirmed there is a head gasket leak. Due to female difficulties money has become tight so a gasket change will have to wait and a trip to Halfords and a punt on the evil stuff Rad Weld (or in this case wonder weld ). Normally I would never do such a thing but as the air ingress is minor at this stage I hope I have caught it early and this will do the trick until the real fix can be done. Also as a precaution im going to get a replacement header tank cap as im planning to drill a hole in the existing one to allow the system to de gas while the rad weld does its stuff. Will give you all an update shortly What engine do u have ?Are u sure the head gasket is ok ? BMW 2.5 TDAuto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash.Witty Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 How much pressure is in the system? It's normal to pressurize when hot to prevent the coolant from boiling but not too much, get a sniff test done at a garage to confirm head gasket/head problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 I think was suggested a few pages back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmasherWebbs Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Rad weld was as much use as peeing into the wind. She is reluctantly going the garage next week and I'm ready to hear the worst. :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Rad weld was as much use as peeing into the wind.She is reluctantly going the garage next week and I'm ready to hear the worst. :-( If there is problems Radwled will not solve it but there is K-Seal and a another ceramic tyoe of sealer that you could try. The ceramic sealer I have used to great success in my CSK which had driven over 10,000 miles since it was literally blowing steam out of the exhaust. The first round of sealer reduced the problem the second cured it. For £30 it is worth a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Yup, give KSeal a try, you can leave it in the system, no need to drain the coolant either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmasherWebbs Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 I'm doubtful but its worth a shot. Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmasherWebbs Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 I will be damned but its done the job for now. No more bubbling header tank and its holding water better. Think that Kseal will do until I can get it in the garage and rip the head off. I'm actually impressed that's guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Personally, I would just run it until it happens again, it is supposed to seal future leaks as well, as it stays in the coolant system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 Personally, I would just run it until it happens again, it is supposed to seal future leaks as well, as it stays in the coolant system I would agree with that. My CSK still ran after 10k miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Interesting... may have to give this a go on the 300TDi if I ever feel like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.