Tom17 Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Like a squeaking metal on metal sound coming from front wheel Sometimes If I let off the accelerator the car wonders right because I'm assuming the wheel has stopped turning the same speed as the other side! What could this be we can't see my visible faults Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Jack the front wheel up and see if there is any movement side to side or up and down. Spin it when jacked up and let us know what you hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom17 Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 Jack the front wheel up and see if there is any movement side to side or up and down.Spin it when jacked up and let us know what you hear. Is there any way to tell without a jack I'm out at the moment I think the drive shaft came away from the wheel but it intermittently goes in and out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 When you were driving it did you have to press the brake pedal down more than once to get good brakes? if so I'd be inclined to look at the wheel bearings, the only way you'll know which corner it is to jack the wheels up and do as Eightpot directed you to do John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom17 Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 When you were driving it did you have to press the brake pedal down more than once to get good brakes? if so I'd be inclined to look at the wheel bearings, the only way you'll know which corner it is to jack the wheels up and do as Eightpot directed you to doJohn Not to sure about the brakes I just corrected the steering and continued on and it sorted itself out but kept on squeaking and rubbing! Will take it home now and have a look! Any other possibilities? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 That would be my only suggestion- I do remember being dragged for a better word across to the hard shoulder on the M4 one evening when I had a wheel bearing sieze on me a few years ago Are you able to sort it out on your own or do you have someone with experience of land rovers and If not put your location up and someone maybe able to give you a hand John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom17 Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 That would be my only suggestion- I do remember being dragged for a better word across to the hard shoulder on the M4 one evening when I had a wheel bearing sieze on me a few years ago Are you able to sort it out on your own or do you have someone with experience of land rovers and If not put your location up and someone maybe able to give you a hand John Right the wheel is off what do I do next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom17 Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 Right the wheel is off what do I do next Found this when taking off the wheel and drive shaft the wheel bearing looks to have collapsed anyone know the part number or where I can get one today at this time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 wheel bearings are Timken part LM603049/LM603011 = LR part RTC3429 -- http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?xSearch=RTC3429 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom17 Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 wheel bearings are Timken part LM603049/LM603011 = LR part RTC3429 -- http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?xSearch=RTC3429 Thanks mate anybody be able to talk me through it step my step! New to landrovers and don't really have a clue but if there is anyone willing to talk me through or is already a thread I'd be grateful of the help Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 I have spare bearings and seals if you are near Chorley. There is a thread in the technical archive on changing them. If you think the wheelbearing has collapsed don't move it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom17 Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 I have spare bearings and seals if you are near Chorley. There is a thread in the technical archive on changing them. If you think the wheelbearing has collapsed don't move it. Cheers mate I'm on the Wirral near liverpool Ordered some from eBay using the part number given above luckily I won't need the car much in the next week fallen quite lucky Will have a look for the thread in the tech archive an will post if I get stuck! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 replacing a front wheel bearing on a 110 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8009 replacing a rear wheel bearing on a 110 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=10286 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Found this when taking off the wheel and drive shaft the wheel bearing looks to have collapsed anyone know the part number or where I can get one today at this time To look at the picture-It looks as though the two lock nuts have wound themselves right out, make sure you use quality bearings, as been suggested Timken-make sure you replace both of them too and with a brand new locking tab washer, Otherwise you'll be doing the job again before too long John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 In this pic, I see signs of rust in areas which should not normally ever be exposed to wetness - in particular, inside the bore of the stub-axle tube. Have you been wading? Reason I ponder is that if you have been getting wet to the point where water gets into the hub bearing and the inner of the stub-axle tube you could also have water inside the swivel-ball in which case your constant-velocity joint will have a vastly shortened life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom17 Posted August 4, 2013 Author Share Posted August 4, 2013 In this pic, I see signs of rust in areas which should not normally ever be exposed to wetness - in particular, inside the bore of the stub-axle tube. Have you been wading? Reason I ponder is that if you have been getting wet to the point where water gets into the hub bearing and the inner of the stub-axle tube you could also have water inside the swivel-ball in which case your constant-velocity joint will have a vastly shortened life. I have yes only twice but as it knackered so much I've cut that out from now on! Handbrake went and everything! I've only ordered the one front bearing would you recommend doing both? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 You need a pair of bearings for each wheel. have a look at the opposite side then decide if it needs changing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 At the least for each side you'll need a seal, a lockwasher, a gasket and a pair of bearings.(You'll damage the seal changing the bearings even if it is OK)You may need other bits if they are damaged, but is all relatively cheap.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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