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Hockey stick front end max shock travel required?


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Apologies that this isnt terribly exciting, but I thought the frequenters of this section would be the best to ask...

I am planning on using modded twin shock mounts to run reverse cones and longer shocks on the front of my 90, the lower mount sits lower on the axle than standard and buy re-fabbing the top mount and some gentle inner wing massaging I was planning on slotting in the same +5" shocks you put on the rear gwyn Lewis style mounts, the simple question is will I get roughly enough flex to warrant the extra length? I have some +2" shocks in the shed but I was hoping to 'out flex' these.

Will.

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Normally, when you raise the suspension 2", you end up with +5" shocks with longer turrets to give you the right travel. I cant quite picture your setup, but longer turrets usually can be obtained pretty cheap. Coming to think of it, I have a set of tubular mat lee turrets in the garage if your interested. Why do you think you need double shocks? if you go OME, you wont need it I think.

Daan

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I'm pretty sure the stock radius arm setup cannot flex more than a 11" travel shock will allow.

It may have been on the Pirate LandRover forum that I recently read where radius arms fitted with slotted eurothane bushings will come close to maxing out 14" stroke dampers in cross articulation. I'll check that forum a bit later.

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Thanks for the replies, good enough reason for me to get the Kellogg's packets out. I have ordered some shocks from llama so lets see how it goes.

Daan I'm not running twin shocks just shocks outside the springs so I can run reverse cones up front.

Will.

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run narrow bushes.

Daan

On a ramp test Daan, I notice that the bushings seem to stay perpendicular to the bolts. So I don't really see what running narrower bushings would achieve, aside from having less rubber to compress. Trouble is that when the inner crush tube has deflected far enough to touch the outer shell a few times, the bushing begins to break up.

A point that I try to raise occasionally on other forums,re drilling bushings, is that the same section of the bushing where the holes need to be to improve articulation is also the same section of the bushings that requires that material to stay in place to resist torque reaction from drive and braking forces. So improved articulation may come at the cost of axle hop and unstable handling under brakes, particularly on lifted trucks running marginal castor angles.Mounting the shocks behind the springs ala Patrols may help control those forces better than directly above the axle.

All the above being said, I have never tried drilled or narrower bushings. But I have had a couple of brown trouser moments whilst braking on uneven surfaces with dodgy aftermarket OME,read ARB bushings.

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The reports on the Pirate thread suggest that handling isn't effected. However I can't see how it wouldn't, as you say, be effected under braking.

The Americans idea of what is regarded as a safe handling vehicle is different to the rest of the developed world, particularly here in OZ, where due to poor road construction methods and 60 ton double articulated trucks, our roads begin breaking up or become unevenly wavey shortly after being built or resurfaced. American main arterial roads are generally flat and solid, and hardly even have curves. They mainly are dead straight for 100 miles or so before making a 90 degree turn, and then straight again for another 100. What would most Americans know about 'handling'?

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I think the misconception is the limitation is on the twisting of the bushings, but its this http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachments/land-rover/23523d1024122457-holey-bushes-untitled-5.jpg

I don't think drilled bushes are a great solution if the vehicle is road going.

If drilled bushings do in fact accentuate axle hop/tramp, then they are probably not a great solution for offroad vehicles either!

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