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Bush info needed


Mutley

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Thinking of renewing the bushes on my 300tdi 90....

From what i can gather genuine seems to be the choice and i'm happy to go this route.....

Question is what bushes do i renew (if answer all, can you please state which as not sure how many bushes a defender has?) And are any of them a complete B****** with out special tools to remove/replace.

Cheers all Mutley

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I'm just doing them all on my 110. I've bought genuine Metalastik ones and am slowly working my way through them. Dont buy them from Paddocks - their 'G' spec ones are nothing like the real thing yet they will deny this if you ring them to complain.

Trailing arm bushes - both sides (front and back bush)

A frame bushes (one for each arm) and the ball joint

Panhard rod bushes

Radius arm bushes (for each arm, two at the front and the one at the end that bolts to the chassis)

I;ve got the part numbers i ordered, but you are better off checking them on microcat as i dont know if the 110 numbers differ to the 90.

Oh yeah, they are all a bugger to get out, and i bought a press to put the new ones in!

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I bought 'cheap' rubber bushes. Bought a cheap press to do the job. Press was brilliant. Bushes were carp and collapsed within a matter of months. Replaced them again with PU (Superpro) and all is well. Press is definitely worth getting as I'd have struggled to get the old ones out (and new ones in) without it. A press costs less than half a day of garage time so worth the money. Not a hard job to do just laborious.

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Thought this would be a good idea to do, but ANOTHER special tool (press)!..... As times are hard and dont have the room to store such a chunky item to only be used once in a blue moon, this little job looks like going on the back burner....

Oh well i did ask, thanks for the info guys cheers Mutley

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When I had my 300 TDi 90 I changed all mine without a press or without taking bits to a garage. And I have just finished doing the front of my Range Rover Classic using the same method. I just get the centre tube out with a blow torch. Then cut though the rubber and steel outer with a hack saw. Then knock the old bush out. The new bush can then be pushed in with a good sturdy vice or drawn in with high tensile bolts and washers. It helps to put the new bush in the freezer for a few hours first. You don't need a press. It is just easier.

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Dont be put off Mutley. As Dunc says, you can do it with a vice, but it is harder (plus you do risk knackering/breaking the vice). I managed to twist my vice free of the workbench last time i tried to push a trailing arm bush in with it! So, i bought a fly press which has recently pushed a few bushes home with no issue at all.

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Trailing arm bushes tend to be particularly difficult to remove and replace, the others less so.

Most of the cost of getting a garage to do a job like this is the time getting bolts out etc, if you take the arms off yourself and take them and the new bushes down to a garage or machine shop you can often get someone to change them out for reasonable money, the right tools make it much easier and quicker.

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Mmm maybe that is the way forward!?!....get out/off and change what i can then visit the local garage with remaining bits in hand mmm like it.

Cheers for the tip

That's how I did it when I first changed bushes 18 years ago. Strapped the suspension parts to my bike and cycled to the garage for each suspension part. They then used their press.
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Maybe just buy the press, do the job (properly and taking your time) then sell the press s/h for 75% of its purchase price, or even if you only get 50% you're still ahead of the game compared to going to a garage, or replacing a vice. I got one of these.

Does it work ok for bushes? I recall seeing the gauge hit 12 tonnes at the garage, but then I guess the gauge isn't exactly calibrated often...

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Sadly there is only so much in the way of special tools i can get in a 6x8 foot shed!..... i dont have the luxuary of a garage so with what i allready have, housing a press as nice an idea as it is sadly aint gunna happen. That said all tools and bits crammed in said shed are Land Rover orientated.

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