jeffd Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 HI all latest stunt pulled by my previously super reliable 2004 130 is refusal to start following fuel filter change. Started first time after change and ran happily on tickover for 5 mins. Next day from cold - cranking away without a hint of firing. I can hear the pump and the relay and have tried purging. The only symptoms I can see - burning on relay connection (see photo) and the pump seems to cycle, runs for about a minute, stop, and then run again. I have tried replacing the relay - any ideas anyone ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 what about the gauze in the fuel line going from the filter to the tank? my TD5 was having problems with starting and only takes this part out and now it goes first start in the morning or whenever I want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 Is the problem accompanied by any kind of unusual fuel-pump-noise and/or gurgling/swishing sounds? I'm thinking you may be suffering from the effects of failed-injector-copper-washers, which led to non-starting and fuel-pump-failure of my 90TD5 at around 85,000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffd Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 Thanks for the suggestions - but in both cases I would have expected a deterioration before the refusal to fire up. After several purge cycles and a lot of cranking ( never more than 30 seconds !) Fired up, big clouds of black smoke and then she died again. How I miss mechanical fuel pumps, filters etc etc.where you had the satisfaction of something tangible to blow through ! If I have to send off the ECU to be checked out (but why should it go wrong ?) can anyone out there suggest somebody ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Why do you think the problem is at all ECU-related? Have you done any recent work on the electrical system? It'd be worth getting someone with an appropriate code-reader to see what faults are logged before you go any further. I'm betting you'll find something indicating low fuel-pressure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffd Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 I have had the oil in the loom problem and I need to open the ECU to see if it got inside. I also had a recent problem where the lead from the alternator to the starter broke and this resulted in the battery discharging and eventually stopping the Defender with much flashing of warning lights ( engine and cold starter ). I recharged the battery and reconnected the lead and it ran after though I thought a little rough. The next day I changed the fuel filter. Again it ran ok after and it was only the next morning that it completely refused. I live in a remote part of the Pyrenees so a code reader would have to come from Santa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 It sounds like fuel pump.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Sounds like the pump, they don't give warning they just stop working. You did not need to open the ECU the oil does not enter it, well I have never seen that and I have seen plenty. Is It cold in your area, I would not trust that battery after a complete discharge like that. The cold question is for the glow plugs are they working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffd Posted December 14, 2013 Author Share Posted December 14, 2013 Rather than floundering about I suppose I should do the logical thing and start with the pump and work forward. Here goes ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Agreed, go for the fuel first including a new filter if you haven't already. My ECU had oil in it when I bought my 110, it was 5 years old and I got it cheap as the PO hadn't had it serviced it properly or got warranty issues dealt with. I had to take the top off the ECU to tip the oil out, it hadn't done any damage thankfully and is still going 8 years later. The engine loom was so badly oiled i had to change it which is a real PITA to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 uhm, from a non-owner... are fuel return lines air free? That tends to give exactly this problem at a Ford Transit 2.5Di. Note that this is something else as fuel bleeding to the injectors. Transit had an issue with fuel return from front back over the cilinders while the most front cilinder was highest. Air bubble could live and stay there causing hard starting/no starting issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.