snailracer Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Having fitted new engine and gearbox mounts to my 109 200tdi it is much quieter at speed but around town and at idle the overdrive lever is vibrating like crazy. The linkage seems to be a tiny bit too large for the pivot bolt. Is this normal or should it be an exact fit (which would make sense). Craddocks do sell replacements but at £60 I'd rather find a cheaper solution! http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/accessories/overdrive-and-parts/rtc7160-linkage-land-rover-overdrive-.html Would it be possible to put a plastic sleeve on the pivot bolt? Or take it somewhere to get a new bolt machined to fit? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 The overdrive bolt seems to be turned from soft hexagonal bar - and is surprisingly prone to rusting. I wondered about turning a groove or two in it and fitting an 'O' ring to prevent rattle and also if it were at the gearbox end to reduce water ingress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Somewhere along the way mine has been cross drilled and had a grease nipple tapped into the end works well as if it ever gets rattly you can pump it with grease. I dont have problems with mine rattling even though it has a "full height" lever. drilled for a grease nipple combined with o rings each end would be ideal i think to prevent water ingress and rattling and less messy when greasing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timppl Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 I tried the O-ring route and it did not really work. In the end I drilled out the pivot until it was roundish and then put the bolt in the electric drill and gound that until it was round ( I dont have a lathe ). i then sleeved the pivot with a metal loaded body filler and when set reamed it until it snugly fitted the bolt. This has worked now without rattling for some 20000 miles. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Could you shim it out a bit? Perhaps a few slips from a coke can, or, I dare say, a Beer can? On my Di everything rattles, except the o/d lever, though I used a CV boot as a gaiter, so that may account for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Could you shim it out a bit? Perhaps a few slips from a coke can, or, I dare say, a Beer can? On my Di everything rattles, except the o/d lever, though I used a CV boot as a gaiter, so that may account for it. ingenious, what was the boot from? and do you have any pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 I had the same problem with my Fairey selector lever, and have the same with the Roverdrive one too. For the Fairey, I found a shim made from a tupperware lid worked very well between the joints of the selectors, with steel and rubber washers to pack out the longitudinal play in the clevis pin, all bather in heavy grease. On the Roverdrive, the link rod uses Rose joints (Heim joints), which get slightly looser over the first 6 months and result in rattles of the outer part of the joint flange against the lever pivot arm. Thick o-rings around the ball of the joint, separating the joint flange from pivot arm work well, but as the joint continues to wear, the only solution will be to replace the joints with better quality units which will not wear as quickly. I'm reaching that point now after 45,000 miles of use with the heavier vibration of the Tdi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dm7288 Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 a large diameter, but thin, copper washer well greased either side of the selector lever on the pivot bolt worked well on mine to quiten it down and stop the lever from having lateral play in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 ingenious, what was the boot from? and do you have any pictures? I'll get some pics up someday. I asked a friendly mechanic for an old cv boot and he gave me a bag of them. I found one that looked ok, and fitted it. I had to put a bit of black water pipe over the lever to make it fit the driveshaft hole, but it worked fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 sounds like it could be quite smart. mine has this problem of the tunnel being hard up against the side of the lever, thus eating through any insulation/matting/gaitors inbetween the two. im sure a decent hammer should sort it but i never get round to fixing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 sounds like it could be quite smart. mine has this problem of the tunnel being hard up against the side of the lever, thus eating through any insulation/matting/gaitors inbetween the two. im sure a decent hammer should sort it but i never get round to fixing it. It i a problem, and even more so with RHD vehicles using Roverdrives because of how their pivot is shaped; I had to cut not only the hole throught the Wright Off Road matting for the pivot to enter the cab, but also an arc for the base of the lever. In LHD vehicles and those fitted with Fairey ODs, you wouldn't need to cut the arc. It looks OK, but using a gaiter would be neater. I used a black DII gear stick gaiter to cover the base of my gear stick, and it looks pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snailracer Posted December 16, 2013 Author Share Posted December 16, 2013 Cheers for the replies. I think I'll have a go at the coke can shim and maybe add some washers and see if that makes any difference. Probably after xmas tho... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 It i a problem, and even more so with RHD vehicles using Roverdrives because of how their pivot is shaped; I had to cut not only the hole throught the Wright Off Road matting for the pivot to enter the cab, but also an arc for the base of the lever. In LHD vehicles and those fitted with Fairey ODs, you wouldn't need to cut the arc. It looks OK, but using a gaiter would be neater. I used a black DII gear stick gaiter to cover the base of my gear stick, and it looks pretty good. ahh so yet more poor LR related design haha i thought it was just my tunnel being "out" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 The Roverdrive lever pivot is really designed with LHD in mind. While the Fairey lever is cranked towards the driver, whichever side they are on, by having a bend in the lever rod that can be rotated in the vertical pivot hole to suit driver position and locked in with the locknut against the pivot top, the lean on the Roverdrive lever is done by having a straight rod and an inclined receiver on the top of the pivot. For LHD orientation, the lever leans left and the bottom of the receiver is welded to the right hand end of the pivot centre tube, clear of the tunnel, but for RHD you need to fit the pivot assembly the other way around for the lever to lean right, and that puts the base of the lever receiver inside the edge of the tunnel, causing clearance issues with their gaiter and retaining ring and any carpet or matting. The lever and pivot assembly are one area where the earlier design is superior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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