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Turning over RV8 that has been resting (auto)


Dibnah

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Greetings All

I have just acquired an RR Classic that has been resting outdoors for a couple of years, I want to start the engine as the first task. I've rescued elderly engines before, turning over by hand is essential before using the starter motor (IMO). But all previous engines rescued have been manuals therefore put into gear and rock backwards/forwards.

This RR is an auto, suggestions for manually turning the engine over please. I'm hoping there is a big nut on the end of the crankshaft, can't really see when peering into the engine bay though.

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It is a 24mm socket on my Rangy that fits on the crank pulley, you will need a short extension as the pulley is deep.

As above, with the oil and spark plugs out. If you have a 3.5 V8 you can go a step further like I did with mine after sitting 12 years.

Remove distributor cap and line the rotor up with no1 cylinder, just to make life easier when assembling for starting her up.

Once the distributor is out you have exposed the oil pump shaft, you need a pice of steel rod, about 10-12mm and 250mm long with a groove cut in one end to fit over the oil pump shaft, the groove is about 5mm wide, and about 8mm deep.

I drained the oil and changed the oil and filter, turned the engine over by hand then used a hand drill to spin the oil pump, I did not tighten the oil filter yet and spun the oil pump gently, my hand drill does have variable speed, until the oil came out at the oil filter, then tightened the filter and spin the oil pump with the drill for one minute intervals spinning nice and slow, wait a few seconds and spin the pump again. I did this 10 times assembled and fired her up. I did a few extras in between as well but not relevant to what you intend to do.

Good luck and let us know how she runs.

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Just start it.

I've never understood all the faffing-about people do when it comes to starting disused (or rebuilt) engines.

Engines are assembled 'dry' at the factory, and first-started by shoving oil coolant and fuel into them then going for it.

They don't mess about with time-wasting stuff like cranking the engine on the starter until it shows oil-pressure, filling oil-filters with oil before fitting them, squirting oil into plug-holes, or disconnecting turbo oil-feeds and injecting oil.

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Thanks for the

Yep, there's a big bolt in the end of the crankshaft. When I roll my engine over manually I use a 15/16" socket, a small extension, and a long breaker bar from underneath the vehicle, turning it clockwise.

Thanks, engine is free, so that's good news.

(Line workers don't have to pay for engine rebuilds out of their own pockets!)

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Just start it.

I've never understood all the faffing-about people do when it comes to starting disused (or rebuilt) engines.

Engines are assembled 'dry' at the factory, and first-started by shoving oil coolant and fuel into them then going for it.

They don't mess about with time-wasting stuff like cranking the engine on the starter until it shows oil-pressure, filling oil-filters with oil before fitting them, squirting oil into plug-holes, or disconnecting turbo oil-feeds and injecting oil.

engines in the factory are assembled with lube on all the important parts.... certainly not dry.

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I have never seen a factory assemble a engine dry. My extra step was a suggestion ONLY, I like to fif and faf. By the way if a engine was assembled dry it will never pump oil to lube the internals, the engine will self destruct in 60 seconds.

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