Gareth Dickens Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 The weak 1.6mm cover for the Salisbury has always worried me a bit. It is the weak link in the axle or me. So I did some reading up and saw plenty of solutions. These are some examples I saw: I'm not too fond of anything that has a gap in the protection. (That's how some children come to be.......) I'm also a bit concerned about mud and crud getting stuck between the guards and standard cover. So my only option was a replacement cover. My favorite is the ARB, but we don't own our own oil rigs or tropical islands and yachts. So I decided to make my own. Pics to follow.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 So I copied the design of the last attachment. I had two rings laser cut from 8mm plate. (For front and rear axle.) I then got some 8mm x 130mm flat bar and started cutting the shapes from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Nice Job Is the CAD file in the fabrication part of the forum ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 Sorry, but no CAD drawings. I had a local lasercutting firm make the flanges for me and they do not part with the drawings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Just buy an OEM replacement. I've never had a Salisbury cover fatally rust-through, even on 1960s-era vehicles. [if you do get a rust-pinhole a bit of oil seeps out and prevents it corroding any further. Same goes for that other example of thin-wall pressing, the Ford Fiesta sump] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 Just buy an OEM replacement. I've never had a Salisbury cover fatally rust-through, even on 1960s-era vehicles. [if you do get a rust-pinhole a bit of oil seeps out and prevents it corroding any further. Same goes for that other example of thin-wall pressing, the Ford Fiesta sump] This is Africa. We don't have hedgehogs and bunnies wandering across nicely tarred roads. We have warthog, kudu,dogs and cattle, rocks and potholes you can bath in. The rust is the least of my worries. 1.6mm plate won't stand up to a decent fart. Go big or stay home. If I'm out where there's no cellphone reception for hundreds of miles and you can drive in 45 deg. C conditions and not see anyone in days, I'm not chancing a impact with a 1.6mm diff cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Well, I've never been to Africa, but here in England we have wild boar, dogs, cats, abandoned ladders on motorways, and roads that decide to slide into neighbouring lakes. We also have sink holes - which make pot holes look like a motorway (google "Motorway sink hole"), so we have our fair share of challenges, too. So we weld sewer pipe caps over our front rover diffs, and try not to reverse our salisburys into rocks. It works for us. Each to their own. We also have our roads covered in salt on an annual basis. In my home country we do actually bathe in pot holes - http://metro.co.uk/2013/01/05/man-takes-a-bath-in-irelands-biggest-pothole-3339365/ so it's not all milk and honey on this side of the equator. Are you adding an oil cooler to your diff, as you are working in the area? Or just using a performance oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Well I grew up in Kenya, was forcibly repatriated to be educated in the UK and on finishing Uni I migrated to Oz, My Disco doesnt have Salisbury differentials so I'm not able to comment on the strength or weakness of the cover plate but I agree the roads in Africa are BAD, especially during the wet season but trust me on this, the Anne Beadell is 10 times worse and the Canning Stock Route even gives cows travel sickness and they are walking, even so I dont see how you can bend or destroy a differential Gareth unless you are'nt looking where you are going or you are looking but your speed is too high ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Truth is, Gareth just likes playing with his truck, like the rest of us, but needs an excuse/focus/reason to spend the money. Also, looking at his many wonderful posts, he likes things to be 'ing tough. Really strong, unbreakable, the best. And that's no bad thing. G. PS, I still think an oil cooler for the diff is a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 If you gents get a chance, google van Zyl's pass and Baboon's pass. Very rocky terrain far from civilization. Our whole nation tend to travel too fast. (comes from the large distances we have to cover.) I'm going to Port Elizabeth in 2 days time and will probably put 3500 km on my vehicle over the next 2 weeks. 1150 km one way. That's just for a family visit. I have so far never broken the same thing twice on my vehicle. I did not mean to offend, all I was getting at was that corrosion was the least of my concern. I also have a front Salisbury, and that is the one I'm most worried about. Now, this oil cooler sounds interesting. Do tell more. I was simply planning to move the fill plug about 1/2" higher, for extra volume and cooling surface. How wold a diff oil cooler work? How do you get the oil to circulate, or are you taking the tiddle? Going to google diff oil coolers now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 Nope, would just be adding weak points to the system. Have to use a high performance oil. At best I could weld some fins onto the cover plate to dissipate heat faster. Do Salisburies generally cook their oil? There seems to be a lot of steel to dissipate heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Where you from ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted April 16, 2014 Author Share Posted April 16, 2014 Where you from ? Originally, Port Elizabeth, but now living in Johannesburg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Having the front Salisbury puts the job into perspective - otherwise you'd be having to hit the hog at 60 mph in reverse to justify the effort! Nice work, regardless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 If you use a good grade oil, paint it black, and have the fins on the cover you should be fine. Change the oils often, ambient of 45 degrees, plus high speeds and a heavy truck will shorten the life of the oil. Post up some pics when you are done!G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Dickens Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 Just got back from holiday, so no progress. Going to buy some cap screws to assemble it for the welding process. Hopefully that prevents warping. They are M10, right? As for overheated oil, the angle of the side cover does increase the volume and I might be able to fit the filler plug 1/2" higher to further increase the oil volume. I don't think cooling fins will be necessary or that effective on the outside of 8mm steel plate. I am definitely going to end up with increased oil quantity in the center. To repeat the question: Has anyone cooked the oil in their Salisbury or do you think that the thicker diff cover will cause this to happen? Can anyone suggest a high quality oil? (Brand or specifications are welcome) Synthetic or mineral based? What is regular oil change for a diff? (Annually?) - I was thinking once a year and after any mud/water fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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