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Defender 110 2.5 na won't start


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HELP!!! Please

Hi I've got a small problem with my landy, I let a friend borrow it for the weekend and he ran out of fuel.... Idiot... I've been looking on here to get some tips, I started by making sure the filter was full by using the lift pump and bled the filter, then I bled the injector pump as well by unscrewing the 8mm on top of the pump and no air was coming out then I cracked off an injector to hopefully get rid of the air from there but there is no fuel coming from the pump... Hopefully someone would have some advice on what to do next please

Cheers joe

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When you say no fuel coming through pump I take it you mean injecter pump if so you still have air in system some where did you change all 4 o rings on the filter if you did you wil have just keep bleeding system till it starts sometimes they bleed strait away sometimes takes ages all so make shore the engine works lift pump properly you can get more lift manually due ether lift arm /cam lobe wear

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Did you bleed the fuel filter too? That needs full bleeding, followed by the injection pump. If that doesn't sort it out, then suspect a lift pump failure from running dry - the diaphragm may have split or one of its non-return valves jammed.

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Hey, I've tried my best to bleed the filter, do you have to undo the banjo bolt on top of the filter or is there another screw to undo? Also how much fuel should come out of the lift pump when your priming the system?

Cheers joe

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These are a serious person I'm not that keen on to bleed.

Check that the lift pump is pumping. Take off the fuel solenoid wire open the filter bleed and crank until you get lots of diesel and then the bleed on the injection pump. Pump lots of fuel out.

Then crack all four injector lines, hook up the solenoid wire and crank accelerator to the floor... Once you get fuel squirting, tighten one at a time until it runs.

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Take the filter off and fill it with diesel, then carefully replace the filter on the housing and tighten up the bolt that keeps it all together-this should remove the need to do too much bleeding of your fuel system, I do a similar thing when I do my 200 tdi engine servicing as it's one way of not finding somewhere to get rid of the diesel out out the old filter and it also means I don't have bugger about doing too much cranking to self bleed it.

John

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My 2.5 n/a started no problem after a failed lift pump was changed at the roadside (nicked one off the Disco I had on the trailer) pumped fuel up and cracked injector pipes off and retightened one at a time as diesel spat out, she picked up and ran no problem,

Towed the disco on trailer at 60 effortlessly with a tailwind :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey,

An update... I've taken off the lift pump and it's working fine. I've bleed the fuel filter by undoing the union bolt on top till no air came out, after that I bleed the injection pump by undoing the 8mm bolt on top of it, but now I can't get any fuel up through the fuel lines to the injectors, I've turned on the ignition to activate the fuel solenoid but still no fuel :( please help if you have any other suggestions. P.s I haven't changed the solenoid yet so it could poss be that... Cheers joe

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Hey,

An update... I've taken off the lift pump and it's working fine. I've bleed the fuel filter by undoing the union bolt on top till no air came out, after that I bleed the injection pump by undoing the 8mm bolt on top of it, but now I can't get any fuel up through the fuel lines to the injectors, I've turned on the ignition to activate the fuel solenoid but still no fuel :( please help if you have any other suggestions. P.s I haven't changed the solenoid yet so it could poss be that... Cheers joe

I ama novice (still), but I am not sure if fuel should come out of the injector pipes by only pumping. I am quite sure you need to crank the engine to get fuel up there.

I changed my injector pump yeasterday and it took a while before I got it to work.

Bleeding air filter, Injectorpump (With ignitioin on and with lift pump). Then I cranked the engine for 20 seconds. Thereafter I opened the "return" piped banjos on the top of the injectors. I saw air/fuel leaking out. Still open I cranked the engine for some seconds. Tightend them again and then contiuned cranking. Still it took about 15seconds after that before the engine started!

/Martin

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Correct, fuel will not come out of the injectos without turning the engine over, the pump distributes the fuel as needed, unlike newer electronic injectors,they are not fully pressurised all the time, only when the pump dictates, bit like a distributor on a petrol.....

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, I've found the problem.... The timing belt has snapped :( hence no fuel lol. But the problem is I tried to bump start it before I found this out. So I have taken the head off and found all of the push rods were bent. So I'm replacing them as well as all of the gaskets etc. but as far as timing goes for the belt obviously the crank and can shaft will be different. Is there any pointers please on how I can get the engine timed upped please. Cheers joe

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Bump starting it did not matter. The push rods bend in the first revolution after the belt breaks. There was no need to remove the head.

Timing is pretty straight forward. Refer to the workshop manual. You can download it if you don't have one.

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As said, you'd have gotten away with just replacing the belt and push rods, as far as timing, just line up the marks on the pulleys with their pointers. As you've got the head off though, it'd be silly not to replace the valve stem seals, they're a common cause of blue smoke on an older vehicle.

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