tom_580 Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 I have an N plate Range Rover classic which I have had for the last 6 months. The other day when I came to start it (turned the key to position 3) the transmission warning light came on and it didn’t start. I tried again and it worked. The next day it did this again but this time took a few attempts to start. With each attempt the transmission warning light came on. Now it won’t start at all. Each attempt to start it brings on the transmission warning light. I have checked the temperature sensor and that has a feed and when the wires are shorted the light comes on that is working correctly. The auto box has enough fluid in it as I managed to check that when it was working. The battery has also been fully checked. I have checked all other wires and they all seem to be in order. Has anyone got any thoughts? Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Could it be linked to the spider - if an N-plate Rangie would have one? I'd look at starting it directly at the starter motor, then look for wiring issues. If it was the spider, I can't see why it would bring the gearbox temp light on though? Maybe someone with more Spider experience has a view. Mods - is this worth moving to International so that the Disco boys can give their input? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squaddiefox Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Would the inhibitor switch on an auto light it up if it was degraded/falling apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom_580 Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 Many thanks for the replies. Having seen a repair to a spider on a 300tdi disco I set about looking for this on my 300tdi Range Rover. If it is fitted with a spider then it is not in the same place as a disco. I know his having spend the day removing the centre part of the dash, then all of the glove box, then all around the steering coloum....... The starter motor was new a few months ago but was tested anyway with no fault found. The gearbox inhibitor switch was my first thought and I couldn't fault that either. Fault is now bypassed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 Mine has the alarm spider on the passenger side behind the glovebox IIRC. How did you bypass the fault? Did the starter turn around, or did nothing happen at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom_580 Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 There was nothing to the starter motor at all. Won't turn over, just the transmission light coming on. The fault was bypassed by taking a live feed from the barrel when the key is turned to position three and taking that straight to the starter motor. To my surprise, everthing still works, even the alarm. I had eveything out around the glove box and I still couldn't find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Have you checked the wiring diagram in the RAVE? You should be able to find where it is then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom_580 Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 What is RAVE? Is it some sort of workshop manual? I have heard of it but am not sure what it is. My computer won't open the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Yes, it's a workshop manual with full electrical diagrams. Install 7-Zip to open the file, extract it, and run RAVE.exe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 The transmission temperature light is illuminated as a bulb check every time the ignition switch is in position III (to power the starter). You probably didn't notice it illuminating until you held the switch in position III for an extended period of time, when the starter did not operate. The only connection between your fault and the transmission temperature light is that, because it illuminates, it proved power is leaving the ignition switch on the White/Red wire. If a Theft Alarm Unit is fitted it is in the earth side of the Starter Solenoid Relay operate path. When operated, the relay sends power to the starter motor solenoid. From your description you have created a circuit that powers the Starter Solenoid directly from the ignition switch. If the car has an automatic gearbox the engine will now start in any gear, as the Park/Neutral Position switch is also part of the operate circuit for the Starter Solenoid Relay. With the current loading of the solenoid, and its inductive effect, the ignition switch contacts are likely to fail, sometime. The Starter Solenoid Relay (K137) is behind the RH footwell trim panel. The operate circuit is power from the ignition switch, then fuse 17 on a White/Red wire, through the relay coil then to earth on the Black/Orange wire. The earth circuit is via a diode, many connection points, which vary depending on whether it's a manual or automatic gearbox, the Park/Neutral Position switch (if automatic), the Theft Alarm Unit (if fitted), then earth. The switching circuit for the solenoid is power via fuse MF5 on a Brown/White wire, leaving the relay on a Brown/Red wire. I suggest your first check is whether the relay is operating or not. If not, test the relay directly, or look for a standing earth on the Black/Orange wire (with any automatic gear lever in Park or Neutral). If that earth is not present, but the relay works, I suggest a better temporary fix, until you get the wiring diagram and can go through it in detail, is to apply a full earth to the Black/Orange wire, removing your existing temporary feed directly from the ignition switch. This will at least allow the relay to protect the ignition switch contacts, although it will still allow the engine to be started in any gear. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom_580 Posted June 21, 2014 Author Share Posted June 21, 2014 Thank you. That is some food for thought. I will make a start on having a look through. If I make any progress then i will report back. Also thank you for the information on RAVE. Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom_580 Posted September 27, 2014 Author Share Posted September 27, 2014 Found a bit of time to have a look at this and found the problem. I started with the Starter Solenoid Relay which wasn’t making any noise when the Ignition key was turned. I replaced this solenoid with another and this made no difference, still wouldn’t start. I had a feed to this solenoid from the ignition but there was no earth. The adjacent diode was checked by running an earth from the right side of it direct to the battery. Once this was done it then started. The wiring diagrams on RAVE show the earth from the starter solenoid running through the Park/Neutral position switch and then through the theft alarm unit. As the theft alarm unit was easy to get to, this was checked out first. The photo shows what was found. Found the problem! Bypass the plug to this unit and the vehicle starts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manipoe Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 I have the exact same problem! I know this is an old thread but can you confirm what 'Bypass the plug to this unit and the vehicle starts' means? Did you just unplug it? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 I’m not comfortable sharing online how to bypass the alarm and immobiliser system, especially with these vehicles becoming more desirable as classics, but if you can jump the starter from a battery to the starter solenoid terminal and it turns over, there is a good chance it is the alarm ECU, just as above. I can happily recommend www.remotekey.co.uk to repair or replace your ECU and fobs - they replaced mine with the later type and can set up several extra options that weren’t available on the existing type. Sensible prices, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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