xychix Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 Is there any way I can determine what bearing / seal kit i need? My series III 109 says feb-1980 on paper.... but papers here in France lie most of the time. I can't get the hubnut of with a normal 52mm key and I was hoping to order it all together (as I've only got limited time for MOT revisit) There seems to be a number on the axle (front left) that could read 91414141E .... does that identity the axle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 http://www.seriesdiesellandrover.com/Identi%20Front%20Axle.html 914 109 inch 4 cylinder LHD E Change to metric threads in certain components 1974 F Marked the point in 1980 when 88 and 109 axles were both started to be fitted with 11 inch brakes G Full commonisation of 88 and 109 axles, 1980 914-14141-E would then mean pre 1980 axle I assume... (as this serie started in 1974) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 The older type seems likely, but can you not ask your local specialist to supply both types with a refund on the type you don't need? They'll be able to sell them again soon enough, as long as you don't open the sealed bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 hahaha local specialist. There is a ford dealer with a landrover flag outside at 1.5 hours from here, he won't have it on the shelve... there is a specialist in Dijon at 3.5 hours driving he MIGHT have it. I'll order a kit from paddocks and order what ever I can find here on a french site hoping it arrives faster and is correct. Bye the way. are the seals (number 15 in the picture below) the same for older and newer axles (series III 109 <1980 >1980) ?? Is 15 (dual lipped seal) the item that should keep axle oil from getting in the brakes at the location in my previous photo? (also attached underneath leakage in the sleeve between turning piece and steady piece. In this picture just under the brake spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 Don't get them from Paddocks - almost all their stock is Britpart, and of all their poor components, their seals are the worst. Use Dunsfold Land Rover - they do decent parts and are sensibly priced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 Hmm will britpart seals atleast hold the oil in for a few weeks? It's already on its way (also made a same order from a french website, we'll see what arrives first. To bad this repair starts of in a hurry in order to get MOT (once done it's valid or 5 years :) ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 ow carp, back in france, with plenty of seals and new driving members... now it appears that the ring/collar thats pressed against the backplate of the brakes has come off and it looks bad. Oil seal was gone as well, which wasn't a supprise if you'd see the condition of the collar.... (sharp and abused). Offcourse I haven't got one of these.... will have to clean the parts and leave it all till december (just here for a week). (I might try to smoothen up the sharp edges with a dremel, but if it sticks to the seal and not to the item it's pressed on (so it will start rotating and eating in) I'll have more damage done... is seems number 1 in this image is the broken part: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 No 1 can be ordered in holland seperately, With landservice.fr I can only find it in 1 complete piece. (distance piece AND stub axle already pressed together) http://www.land-service.com/443-pont-avant-arriere-serie-88-et-109 Can anyone confirm the land service piece is no 4 and 1 from the schematics above? -- edit Another close look tells me the collar was likely pressed on with a press ring / tube that was a bit to big. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 As i have several spare seals I decided to clean up the distance piece with a dremel and mount it back on the stub axle. All back together now. Few things that I noticed. The half axle can be pushed in and pulled out about 1 cm, is that normal? I've placed the seal with the back of the seal even to the outer edge of the hub, As I found out there is a special placement tool for the seal (18G 1349), which presses the seal 2mm inward. Will this make a big difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 As i have several spare seals I decided to clean up the distance piece with a dremel and mount it back on the stub axle. All back together now. Few things that I noticed. The half axle can be pushed in and pulled out about 1 cm, is that normal? I've placed the seal with the back of the seal even to the outer edge of the hub, As I found out there is a special placement tool for the seal (18G 1349), which presses the seal 2mm inward. Will this make a big difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 That all sounds fine. The shaft float is taken care of when you tighten the nut after fitting the drive flange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 That all sounds fine. The shaft float is taken care of when you tighten the nut after fitting the drive flange. Correct. As for tighening the hub nuts. I turned the first one completely on and then about 10 degrees back and fitted the next one. I did that because I could feel the difference in how easy the hub could turn. Would it need more slack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 no that should be fine . You have the tab lockwasher in place between the two nuts ? also check the axle breather is clear , the old brass breather is serviceable by knocking the ball out which pops the retainer plug and outer sleeve off . If that sealring is badly damaged you could get a new one machined up locally , it's nothing special cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 no that should be fine . You have the tab lockwasher in place between the two nuts ? also check the axle breather is clear , the old brass breather is serviceable by knocking the ball out which pops the retainer plug and outer sleeve off . If that sealring is badly damaged you could get a new one machined up locally , it's nothing special cheers Steveb locker in place, and axle breather is replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 When I replaced a land I was ready with suitable gear to drive it on when hot but in fact when I'd heated it a bit it dropped straight on and went to the correct place with no need for any force at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 When I replaced a land I was ready with suitable gear to drive it on when hot but in fact when I'd heated it a bit it dropped straight on and went to the correct place with no need for any force at all. aren't you affraid then it will stick to the seal and rotate on the halfshaft? Good to hear this, that means it's not odd at all I could squeeze it on by hand.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 The seal track should not push on by hand cold that's loose, dropping on when the track is hot(smoking) and the stub is cold is fine likewise a drive fit cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 The seal track should not push on by hand cold that's loose, dropping on when the track is hot(smoking) and the stub is cold is fine likewise a drive fit cold. ok... min does.. what is the solution? new track and stub? tick it on with a welder and clean the weld nicely? or leave it as is and see when the seal goes.... likely all has to come once again as I expect leakage of the swivel sweal as well For now I just want a running truck do some mudding, finish my garage before the real overhaul starts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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