Wiring terminals/compatibility

[ajh]

I'm trying to find an option for connecting aftermarket wiring harnesses to the stock equipment on a Defender but so far have not found any reasonable options for building the multi-terminal bullet connector junctions? I'm looking for something clean but also structurally strong and am not really happy with the idea of replacing them all with weatherpac or molex etc. If there is an alternative to the bullet connectors that doesn't use the really fine thin pin-connectors used in weatherpac/molex multiplugs that would also be an option but they must have secure connections as an option if they don't have the friction fit of the stock type connections.... I'm mostly using Painless Harnesses these days and having the option to pre-build them with all the connectors so they're plug and play would be really nice.

Any ideas? Thanks.

[Anderzander]

PaulMc on here can supply a lot of the standard LR terminals and connectors.

He has an ebay store too under something like LR Connectors - he's been super helpful to me.

[ajh]

Thanks, I'll look/get in touch. The ones I'm after are more or less ones like the moulded 3, 4, 6, 8 wire ones in the dash etc... in a way that I can crimp the bullets on then insert and I dunno, glue/silicone/goop them to look like the stock ones.

[Retroanaconda]

Those moulded things are feckin' useless, the damp gets in and they corrode. Not to mention they are a right pain to undo.

Proper multi plugs such as the Econoseal ones used on 300Tdi and later looms are the way to go. Much better protected against water ingress and easier to install/add to/undo etc..

[ajh]

James, agreed 100%. However, if you're prepping a harness for a swap-in then being able to make it plug into the stock instruments is an advantage. In this scenario most of the engine junctions become unneeded anyway so you leave those wires intact. I'm more worried about being able to allow customers to just plug in Land Rover switches, etc. without having to modify each one first. In a from-scratch I've leaned more towards leaving excess and heat-seal shrink splices anyway but that's not the best for a harness someone else will swap in.

[western]

the rubber moulded plugs & sockets are done at the loom manufacturing stage, not a DIY process, better off with the tyco or econoseal style or plugs/sockets.

[Anderzander]

Here is one of Paul's ebay items :

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=161462617409

[ajh]

Western, yes I get that. Presumably there is some way to make a compatible plug though so things like the headlamp switch and horn, etc can just 'plug in'. No problem getting the newer styles of connector; it just means someone has to re-wire the other end as well which is what I was hoping to avoid.

Thanks.

[need4speed]

As above. The Econoseals would be the way to go a la 300TDi / TD5 etc.

However if you go down this route it is imperative you use very good quality crimpers for the job. Hozan do the best. Yes you can get the job done with cheaper crimpers but they give nothing like the factory quality crimp that the Hozan's do.

I learned from bitter experience.

Well worth trying to PM PaulMc regarding this.

[UdderlyOffroad]

I'm more worried about being able to allow customers to just plug in Land Rover switches, etc. without having to modify each one first.

I think I understand what you’re trying to achieve, but I think your customers are quite likely to break the moulded rubber connections when trying to pull them apart. Certainly I pulled off and found the most horrible corroded mess. Therefore, if you’re trying to create some kind of drop-in replacement harness, you may well be able to, but your customers may still have a frustrating experience trying to install them.

Now if you’re talking about INSIDE the vehicle, they should be fairly standard ‘BL’ plastic connectors – have a look at the Autosparks website. Yes there are oddities, such as the hazard switch connector, but even these are available. Then, probably source them via RS components in Canada?