Ex Member Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Have you measured the actual movement with a dial gauge? Normal specs are around 0.020" lateral and 0.005" axial. IME, they run fine with a fair bit more in reality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wanger Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 put a 300 tdi turbo on it. use the manifold aswell. much icer with more boost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Have you measured the actual movement with a dial gauge? Normal specs are around 0.020" lateral and 0.005" axial. IME, they run fine with a fair bit more in reality. This ^^^ is what I was thinking Ian. A little side to side movement is normal and if you are just poking it with your finger, it feels a lot more than it really is in my experience. If there is no perceptible in out play and it doesn't touch the casing side to side and the fins look in good in damaged condition, I would take a chance on it as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Barrett Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 I have a dial gauge but typically its over in the other garage. 0.5mm movement laterally is quite a lot more than I thought would be allowed. So I might just be within tolerance. I've FINALLY got the bugger off. I'll need new studs for the manifold as they all came out with the nuts and one is stuck in the turbo flange so will have to be cut out. Its a minor thing I'm not worried about. So today its with me and I'll run it around to Midland Turbo at lunchtime for their opinion. The blades look OK, though its very sooty and needs at least a damned good clean. On the 300tdi turbo idea - I'm surprised they seem the same price as the 200tdi secondhand if they are an upgrade. Is it not well known or do they need modification to make them fit. Another question too I'm afraid. The Glencoyne idiot guide says you need to rotate the turbo so its input is at the top rather than the bottom where it is now ("clocked" is their expression). But I've seen little evidence of anyone actually doing this. Is this information out of date or is there an accepted work around now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Barrett Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Well the result from the guys at MT is its knackered. Something has been through it and it has impeller damage. So I'm going to have it rebuilt. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohlins Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 I have a dial gauge but typically its over in the other garage. 0.5mm movement laterally is quite a lot more than I thought would be allowed. So I might just be within tolerance. I've FINALLY got the bugger off. I'll need new studs for the manifold as they all came out with the nuts and one is stuck in the turbo flange so will have to be cut out. Its a minor thing I'm not worried about. So today its with me and I'll run it around to Midland Turbo at lunchtime for their opinion. The blades look OK, though its very sooty and needs at least a damned good clean. On the 300tdi turbo idea - I'm surprised they seem the same price as the 200tdi secondhand if they are an upgrade. Is it not well known or do they need modification to make them fit. Another question too I'm afraid. The Glencoyne idiot guide says you need to rotate the turbo so its input is at the top rather than the bottom where it is now ("clocked" is their expression). But I've seen little evidence of anyone actually doing this. Is this information out of date or is there an accepted work around now? As an aside,the advice from Glencoyne ref. Clocking works....my buddy and I did it last weekend and it works just fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 I rebuilt mine recently it also put up a fight coming off. Fairly easy to do though, the new core is on eBay for about 160 with "updated bearings" then it's a matter of taking the rear housing off which iirc is 8 bolts, Some WD and very gentle tapping with a mallet to break the rust bonds. The compressor housing is just a very big circlip You need to change the oil and filter too and prime the turbo by turning the engine over without it fireing. I did that by removing the spade connector on the back of the fuel pump and turning it on the key for a while. Filling the new core with oil before you put the oil feed pipe back on is also a good idea Hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Forget the "repair" kit, you can easily take it apart but even if you very carefully mark all the rotating components and re-assemble them "perfectly" the shaft and rotors will still need to be checked for perfect balance - not the average guy has in his workshop, the complete cassette is the easy way to go. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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