Mark Jenkins Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 When using a kinetic rope, is it a recommended to use a bridle to spread the load between two rear JATE rings? (assuming here that we are choosing to use JATE rings rather than a NATO hook or similar) If so, should this bridle also be of a kinetic rope, or can it be simply a strap of the correct length? I know that strops have varying load bearing capabilities depending on the shape that they form under load. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 Personally I'd go for the biggest meanest central point I could fit on to the crossmember and forget the bridle or JATE rings. I have a bridle made of 24mm nylon (12 ton) with protected eyes, which I rarely carry and have never used, I made it when I was feeling industrious and had some spare rope, to use on the front. Part of the reason for this is that JATE rings are held on with 1 x M10 bolt each so you have a breaking strain for 2 x M10 bolts vs. 4 x M12 bolts (NATO or Camel style HD hitch) or 2 x M16 bolts (normal jaw) for a tow hitch.... I haven't done the sums but its obviously going to be a lot weaker even with a bridle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Jenkins Posted November 15, 2006 Author Share Posted November 15, 2006 Personally I'd go for the biggest meanest central point I could fit on to the crossmember and forget the bridle or JATE rings. I have a bridle made of 24mm nylon (12 ton) with protected eyes, which I rarely carry and have never used, I made it when I was feeling industrious and had some spare rope, to use on the front.Part of the reason for this is that JATE rings are held on with 1 x M10 bolt each so you have a breaking strain for 2 x M10 bolts vs. 4 x M12 bolts (NATO or Camel style HD hitch) or 2 x M16 bolts (normal jaw) for a tow hitch.... I haven't done the sums but its obviously going to be a lot weaker even with a bridle. That makes sense. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 Ok If you use a bridle then connect it to the 2 points but before you do this thread the rope or whatever through the bridle This way you connect to it WITHOUT having a shackled linned up dead centere to the pull ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 When using a kinetic rope, is it a recommended to use a bridle to spread the load between two rear JATE rings? (assuming here that we are choosing to use JATE rings rather than a NATO hook or similar)If so, should this bridle also be of a kinetic rope, or can it be simply a strap of the correct length? I know that strops have varying load bearing capabilities depending on the shape that they form under load. Mark When I rig my KERR with a bridle [12tonne, 2metre x 24mm, I bought 2 plus Kerr from Dave Bowyer] , I have the bridle passed through the kerr's eye then onto each jate ring, with a shorter strop passed through the kerr's eye & then attached to the nato hitch [which takes no load from the kerr during recovery,only to serve as a safety line anchor] so if one of the jates did let go the kerr is still attached by it's eye to my vehicle, if connecting to the front on my 110 I use a similar system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Jenkins Posted November 15, 2006 Author Share Posted November 15, 2006 should this bridle also be of a kinetic rope, or can it be simply a strap of the correct length? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 My 2 bridles are 12tonne, 2metre long x 24mm diameter, spliced eye ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Jenkins Posted November 15, 2006 Author Share Posted November 15, 2006 I see now, sorry. I've been on David Bowyer's site and see what you mean. My 2 bridles are 12tonne, 2metre long x 24mm diameter, spliced eye ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 no need to apologies Mark, I hope my scruffy diagram helps, IIRC only used the kerr 3 times in 9 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 IMHO a bridle must be used with a KERR. It should be attached to two points and pass through the eye of the KERR (the KERR not directly attached to any point of the vehicle). This not only spreads the load but ensures should the bridle give way the KERR will slip off and NO bits of metal will come flying towards you attatched to the loose end of the KERR. Should one end of the bridle come free with a large chunk of chassis still attached preventing the KERR slipping off the bridle the resulting slack in the bridle will at least help to reduce the energy stored in the bridle and you still have the second chance of the other end of the bridle staying attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.