D12MUD Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Being a reasonably confident fixer of land rover products, I am about to embark on the total rebuild of a Disco 200 tdi engine i would feel more confident if i could get hold of a good engine workshop Manuel of some description! Can anyone recommend one also point me in the right direction as to were i could obtain one please thanks for your time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 the work shop manual cant be beaten, i rebuilt my defender 200 about 3 years ago, its so easy its enjoyable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Have a look on brooklands books website, they do reprinted lr manuals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 The LR Manuals are very good, and Haynes lifted most of there stuff direct from them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D12MUD Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 cheers guys that's helpful! The LR Manuals are very good, and Haynes lifted most of there stuff direct from them! Have a look on brooklands books website, they do reprinted lr manuals the work shop manual cant be beaten, i rebuilt my defender 200 about 3 years ago, its so easy its enjoyable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Just a tip, when rebuilding your engine have the two woodruff keyways in the crankshaft machined into a single keyway - they are both inline. The single key gives greater location for the timing cog as well as the harmonic crank pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D12MUD Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Just a tip, when rebuilding your engine have the two woodruff keyways in the crankshaft machined into a single keyway - they are both inline. The single key gives greater location for the timing cog as well as the harmonic crank pulley. cheers old hand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marten Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 I bought the original ring-binder workshop manual from Land Rover (with a mountain of amendments to be inserted) when I bought my 200 TDi Disco new in 1992. I have confidently, completely rebuilt the engine, both gearboxes and both axles during a total rebuild of the vehicle five years ago (still my primary transport) using the manual every step of the way. It is brilliant, and much better than Haynes, with good clear drawings and all the torques, dimensions and tolerances. Haynes may help get round the need for some "special tools", but I made all my own as far as the engine was concerned. Try and re-use as many existing components within the engine, that are still in spec,as you can because I found there are a lot of poor quality, short life, parts available! Price is not necessarily a good indication of quality! As one of several frustrating examples, replacement valve slide assemblies from a reputable supplier lasted barely 10,000 miles before catastrophic failure. I acquired a replacement crank-case & rebuilt the engine (again!) with the original valve slider assy parts, including the cam shaft, and they are still performing perfectly at 260,000+ miles. The engine rebuild is well worth doing. I am presently getting the same mpg as I did in 1992 when the dear old bus was brand new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D12MUD Posted October 3, 2015 Author Share Posted October 3, 2015 I bought the original ring-binder workshop manual from Land Rover (with a mountain of amendments to be inserted) when I bought my 200 TDi Disco new in 1992. I have confidently, completely rebuilt the engine, both gearboxes and both axles during a total rebuild of the vehicle five years ago (still my primary transport) using the manual every step of the way. It is brilliant, and much better than Haynes, with good clear drawings and all the torques, dimensions and tolerances. Haynes may help get round the need for some "special tools", but I made all my own as far as the engine was concerned. Try and re-use as many existing components within the engine, that are still in spec,as you can because I found there are a lot of poor quality, short life, parts available! Price is not necessarily a good indication of quality! As one of several frustrating examples, replacement valve slide assemblies from a reputable supplier lasted barely 10,000 miles before catastrophic failure. I acquired a replacement crank-case & rebuilt the engine (again!) with the original valve slider assy parts, including the cam shaft, and they are still performing perfectly at 260,000+ miles. The engine rebuild is well worth doing. I am presently getting the same mpg as I did in 1992 when the dear old bus was brand new! thanks for your encouragement ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 I've just had the head off my 200Tdi (90k, 26 dealer stamps, 30 oil changes), due an issue with burning oil. I've made sure all the parts were sourced direct from Elring - too many cheap copies. I had the head checked by the local engine specialist (working on engines since 1898 so not too bad) and had it flowed. 4 of the valves were badly lipped - no idea why. They were machined and all the valves were machine lapped. The core plugs were all okayish but they've all been replaced All the seals, plugs and doo-hickeys have been renewed Where new was best it's been done.... I want the engine to last... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 When the head came off, I was surprised by how clean the intakes were - except for the usual oily mess around number 4 (at the back) which always seems to suffer on 200's, from the oil laden air coming in form the breather - not sure why, although someone on here will no doubt explain. I have a rather nice oil catch tank system in the workshop - a proper one from a circuit racer. I was thinking about fitting it - thus doing away with any and all oil vapour going into the intakes... Worth it or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Sure, what have you got to lose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Fair point... It's polished aluminium as well so has max bling points... That would detract from my not having an LED roof bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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