boaterboy Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Hello CwazyWabbit Thank you for your help. Photos attached (I hope!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Wondered if this is any help http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?201228-Volvo-Penta-VDO-Technik-Tachometer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 I'd hazard a guess that if you remove those 3 screws on the back that you can pop it open, you'd then be able to see if there is moisture/corrosion on the main board. Looking it the pictures in the pdf from the thread that Ralph linked to it does appear there is a flexible ribbon cable present as well so this could of course break like the one mentioned earlier in this thread. Pop it open and take a few pictures..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boaterboy Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Thank you CwazyWabbit & Western. Some really good stuff in your messages. I need now to get to the boat to remove instrument which won't be for a couple of days in this weather. But I'll be sure to get in touch again asap. Meanwhile, thank you very much for your help. I really appreciate it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 No probs, let us know what you discover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boaterboy Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Hello, again, CwazyWabbit & Western, I've now removed the tachometer/hourmeter and dismantled it. A couple of points to augment the pdf instructions for anyone else doing the same, mine is without the larger, black, outer ring shown in the initial pdf photographs. The plastic lens is held in position by means of a soft plastic ring featuring circumferential 'sealing' rings. Working round the edge of the lens, I gradually eased the lens out using a sharp blade taking care not to allow it to slip. The two threaded, brass studs have to be removed (I used a pair of long nosed pliers because I didn't have a box spanner small enough) which frees up the inner workings within the outer case and they can then be removed through the front of the case. Resist trying to push the lens out using the inner workings by removing the brass studs first as this could lead to damaging the instrument needle. I discovered that the three screws to which you refer, CW, hold the inner workings together. Having removed the outer casing of the instrument, as far as I could see there is absolutely no corrosion of any sort - everything looks like new, including the ribbon cable. Of course, I've no means of checking the internal condition of any of the components. I did carefully remove the end of the ribbon cable from the white plastic connecting block using a pair of long nosed pliers - having first eased out the very small clamping plate which holds the cable in position in the block (there is a snap fixing at each end). I cleaned up the cable end using a cotton bud dipped in methylated spirits. Quite a lot of black residue was removed which (fingers very much crossed!) I hope was the cause of poor electrical contact and, hence, no digits. I aim to refit the instrument asap and will let you know of my success or otherwise! Should I not get the required result, rather than cut the inside of the otherwise fully operational instrument around and risk damaging it, I'm inclined to fit a remote hourmeter (£15 from my local chandlery) wired into the ignition circuit. I'll keep you posted, thank you, both, again for your help. I found your messages most useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Cheers for the update, looking forward to hearing how it's gone. If it hasn't worked you could try removing the ribbon cable completely (if that is possible) and then using a multimeter on the continuity setting to see if each conductor in the ribbon cable is unbroken. A small break may not be visible to the naked eye and can be caused by vibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boaterboy Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Hello CW, I reconnected the rev counter / hourmeter (V-P Siemens VDO) yesterday - but no joy. I'll dismantle the instrument again and try and test the ribbon cable in the manner you suggest, Meanwhile, I've also put a post on a marine forum. I'll keep you posted! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Cheers, hopefully you'll get to the bottom of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Not the sea I hope ! ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TokyoRich Posted November 1, 2022 Share Posted November 1, 2022 Morning! I'm new here as I am pretty new to Land Rovers. I have always wanted a defender but I'm not a huge fan of diesel.. but then I found the 40th anniversary and I bought one in Jan. I'm finally getting to it but having been stood for 10 months the odometer has stopped displaying but seeing this thread it seems like not an uncommon problem. I was thinking though, given my car is a Japanese import and running in Kms am I best off trying to source a UK Speedo or trying to get the current one fixed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 1, 2022 Share Posted November 1, 2022 I've not seen many used TD5 speedos coming up for sale in recent years, perhaps I'm not paying enough attention. I'd be inclined to look at your broken one first, but then I am a tinkerer and can't leave well enough alone  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TokyoRich Posted November 1, 2022 Share Posted November 1, 2022 13 hours ago, CwazyWabbit said: I've not seen many used TD5 speedos coming up for sale in recent years, perhaps I'm not paying enough attention. I'd be inclined to look at your broken one first, but then I am a tinkerer and can't leave well enough alone  Would love to ask for your help if that's ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 No problem. Are you up to opening it up? Or do you want to send it to me? Can you add photos of the front of the speedo and any labels it has on it?  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 The AMR5721 speedo pictured earlier in this thread looks very like the VDO Vision programmable speedo I have here on the bench, but with a much nicer dial scale. Internally very different to the td5 speedo. I can take pics of the insides if it's useful. I took it out of the car when it started displaying random speeds each day, but the odometer hadn't worked for years at that time. The glass used to mist over inside regularly in winter if not run ever day, I assume that's what put paid to the lcd display, but I never tried to fix it. If it's useful for spares CW, let me know - I won't do anything with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 Cheers TSD, I'll let you know once we work out what speedo Rich has. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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