The Badger Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 So, I drove a bit then parked to pop into the shop, when I came back tried to start but turned the key and on crank, got nothing? Everything else was fine in all other positions of the key turn? Just on crank nothing happened. took the dash off, looked for loose wires, none. Put the dash back on, had a chat, tried again and it worked?? Anyone have any idea why? Is it a sign that something else will soon break? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 I had something similar a while ago it turned out to be the ignition switch itself. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted November 12, 2016 Author Share Posted November 12, 2016 Yeah, I think it's that as the starter is good and it has been totally fine... but then I have had an earth drain for a while, so when I start the battery light is on for a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 The battery light should stay on for a few seconds until the alternator energizer. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted November 12, 2016 Author Share Posted November 12, 2016 That's good to know, I am thinking the alternator might be not 100% though as it stays on a while. I might just skip the ignition key set up as it being on switchs with a push to start would be much simpler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 don't forget to check earth to egine/chassis while you are there, we rebuilt a friends 90 last year. We found the main battery earth had a flag terminal in the middle that had opened up allowing the cable to move. in effect it had come unsoldered. For months before he had symptoms you describe, he would have to tap the starter solenoid with the jack handle mistakenly thinking it had stuck. however it was down to the poor earth not passing enough current to drive starter motor. Once we found this it was a lightbulb moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted November 17, 2016 Author Share Posted November 17, 2016 Ok, I will check the earth. I have had another weird issue in that the main headlight have stopped working. I have side lights, I have high beam, but just no main beam? Checked the fuses, they are all good. Checked the bulbs by swapping them with a new one, not that. Checked the relay where the fuses are, one of the contacts had signs of overheat, so swapped that with one of the others, still not working? All the fuses in the main box, under seat are good too, so it's not there? Any ideas, not looked at the earth yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjwom23 Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 I can second the earth issue. Assumed the starter was on its way out until the handbrake cable seized. Turned out the engine earth strap was so badly corroded that it earthed through the handbrake cable and melted the shroud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 17 hours ago, The Badger said: I have had another weird issue in that the main headlight have stopped working. I have side lights, I have high beam, but just no main beam? This sounds like the switch on the steering column has melted under the load and now not making contact with the dipped beam contacts. The load heats the switch and they generally get so warm over time that the switch poles melt the insulation and move... Remove the steering cowl and light switch and have a look at the switch. It's fairly obvious when you see it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted November 21, 2016 Author Share Posted November 21, 2016 Thanks for the reply, yeah that is what I thought too. So I brought a new one and replaced it, still no light. I had a look at one of the relays by the fuses and one over the contacts has gotten hot at some point due to burning signs on the relay connector, switch the relay with one of the others and still no joy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 On 12/11/2016 at 4:48 PM, The Badger said: That's good to know, I am thinking the alternator might be not 100% though as it stays on a while. I might just skip the ignition key set up as it being on switchs with a push to start would be much simpler. Assuming you didn't change vehicles/engines, most likely the light stays on because you have a TGV engine and the defender dash warning light doesn't pass enough current to energise the regulator. First time the revs rise above idle, the alternator will self-energise, the regulator will kick in and the light will go out. Change the bulb to higher wattage, or add a resistor or second bulb in parallel, and it will all work as expected. Or just leave it as-is, but remember it isn't charging until the light goes out. I chose the second option, been that way for 200k or more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 Ah, now that is very useful to know, thanks TSD. I went to a friend Auto Electricians and he put the machine on it, it is charging but at about 45amp. I also found the cause of my lights not working, The power going to trigger the relay that turns on the main lights was not getting any power, all the switches were good, relay, lights, fuese etc etc I patched it by just taking a power feed from the white ignition live terminal, now it's all good? Who knows why there is no power going to that line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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