reggie Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 I decided to finally get the inner wing job done, not a job I was looking forward to being a novice welder. I only learnt to weld last week & have done three jobs on the rangie so far, top of windscreen replaced & a couple of plates in the floor. They all turned out ok so I decided it was time to tackle the inner wing. These first two pics are what I seen when I removed the wing on Friday & had a poke about with the screwdriver. The next ones are what I ended up with after I got the grinder out yesterday to cut out the rust & remove the old inner wing. Can anyone tell me what thickness steel I need for the floor repairs etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Good luck! Just bought a Clarke 151TE to learn to do stuff mysef and not pay someone! Look fwd to seeing the results.... This may be of use: http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/ They now do a replacement section for the bulkhead body mount on front inner wing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 I have got to do my inner wings too. I have been putting it off for a bit now. Good luck; I am going to watch with interest. I had assumed that I was going to have to remove the brake ABS block to get at the bulkhead area but notice that you have left yours in place. Are you replacing the whole inner wing? The steel I used to do my nearside footwell repair was 1.5mm thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 Been out today poking around a little more trying to get back to some good metal with no rust & the job is even bigger now. The rust has spread in the sill where the A post is welded to, also more of the floor had to come out. Yes I am going to replace the whole inner wing as I have the full part from YRM & using my Clarke 150TE welder. I also bough an auto darkening mask to make it a little easier & it works a treat, also got a 10L bottle of argon so I don't have to use those small disposables that came with it. The argon seems to make for a better weld than the co2 that I first used with the disposable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 I agree, I also bought an Auto mask when I did my rear floor. Much easier isn't it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
task Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 That's a familiar site! Make sure you disconnect all the ECU's before you start welding, good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 That's a familiar site! Make sure you disconnect all the ECU's before you start welding, good luck I didn't for a patch on the floor, but did disconnect both battery terminals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted October 7, 2011 Author Share Posted October 7, 2011 A few more pics of the progress I've made today. Just have the floor to weld in now before I can start work on the headlamp panel. Hopefully I can get round to actually fitting the inner wing, the job I was originally meant to be doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazsmash Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 Have done a very similiar rust prevention job( cutting out all of the s@+t) and welding in new myself, two of my siblings have pubs so was using co2 gas, decided to change up to garage gas / argoshield as my welding was getting better and wanted to see if i could do a pro weld!! it is far superior, not sure what your running gas wise but hell of a job so far," a bit spitty"( even for a non skilled bricklaying welder!!!!) it all looks better with some paint/underseal on it. Cheers charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted October 7, 2011 Author Share Posted October 7, 2011 I'm using argon mix also. I had a bit of trouble blowing through on some of it as the metal was thin after grinding. It was also windy which didn't help + some lovely rain. Also the first time I've had to do any fabricating but it all turned out ok. Painted some red oxide on to keep from going rusty & thought about using seam sealer over the weld when I'm done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 Some more pics of the finished floor section, I've since covered the welds with seam sealer. Now I've moved onto the headlamp panel so I an get that all sorted. Once this is done then I can get round to the inner wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Nice job. I've had to do some of that welding on mine but nt quite as extensive as yours. I found that even though my welds looked continous i still needed sealer in some places to completely seal water ingress. Your welding job should certainly keep the RR going for a good few years yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 That looks like decent work, it is one of the pleasures of the RRC that the construction does lend itself to "little square patch" type repairs. When you have it all done be sure to apply some waxoil or similar, to all areas surrounding the repair work, and top it up on a regular basis! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Definitely not going anywhere -but bit of advice on the welding, turn the power up a notch or two, this will make the weld sit more flush, at the moment it's VERY proud of the surface, which indicates poor penetration. Doing the above will give you neater welds, less clean up afterwards, and a big smile on your face Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 Definitely not going anywhere -but bit of advice on the welding, turn the power up a notch or two, this will make the weld sit more flush, at the moment it's VERY proud of the surface, which indicates poor penetration. Doing the above will give you neater welds, less clean up afterwards, and a big smile on your face Thanks for the advise. I had the power up when I first started the job but it kept blowing through so had to turn it down. I even turned it up yesterday to do some round the headlamp panel to try & get better penetration but again just blew holes straight through. I've been experimenting with different power & wire speeds throughout the job & found I have to tweek it here it there depeding on what bit I'm doing. I thought that the weld sitting a little proud was maybe the wire speed to fast & me not moving quickly enough? Once all this has been done, I'm going round the whole underside with black waxoyl, already done the inside chassis & inside of doors with the clear waxoyl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 It may be that you do have the wire up too high, and the torch too slow, but I'm pretty sure from those pics the current is too low... so start there If blowing holes, try working from the new good steel and weld that into the old stuff, if that makes sense? TBH, without a video to see how you are doing it at the moment it's hard to give much more specific advice. Practice setting the welder up on some scrap if you have some (I bet you have!) and have a read through here, if you haven't already: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boro Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 If your suffering from blow through with the welder higher try this: tack the panel in place then do short seam welds 20-25mm long say one on each corner to start and then go round filling in with these short seam welds, you will be able to keep the heat down a bit better this way, if its still no good try clamping a piece of copper behind the joint, you can squash a piece of copper pipe flat in the vice to do the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 Thanks guys, here's some welding on the new inner wing after putting it together, good clean metal etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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