engine decarbonising ( wheeler dealers )
Posted 25 September 2012 - 10:45 AM
Just wondering if any of you guys have come across it or used it ?
Posted 26 September 2012 - 11:00 AM
Amazing claims - check
Glowing testimonials from non-technical people - check
C-list celebrity endorsement - check
Actual science - Um...
Posted 26 September 2012 - 11:48 AM
It may have a small effect but it is mostly clever marketing and a percieved improvement (in one of their videos they even state 'the customer percieves an improvement') you'd do as well to stick a tank of premium/supreme/whatever fuel through your car.
Also as FridgeFreezer states the science is just psuedo science with fancy made up words .... quote from another forum 'Columbic fractionation is more b*****ks than the L - casei immunitas in my yoghurt.'
Save your money
110 Station Wagon 300tdi.
Posted 26 September 2012 - 12:19 PM
1989 110 - Defender 200tdi (ex 19J), LT77s, LT230 (from a TD5) & GKN overdrive
2004 D2 TD5 Landmark
Posted 26 September 2012 - 12:27 PM
Again it may have been a placebo effect and time may have had the same results but it seemed to do the job and the truck ran a lot better afterwards.
What issues do you have?
If brute force, tie wraps or duck tape won't solve your problems, then you aren't using enough!!
2010 Freelander 2, 2003 110 G4 LE,
Posted 26 September 2012 - 12:29 PM
Worth noting that Terraclean have *hired* Ed China to be their mouthpiece - they say "He was so impressed he's now promoting Terraclean...", presumably impressed by being handed a load of cash to lend dubious "credibility" to their product. However you slice it, he's on their payroll.
Posted 26 September 2012 - 02:35 PM
I have done many "de-cokes" on my Mini and MG engines over the years by removing the cylinder head. What I've found is that, whilst some of the carbon deposits on the combustion chambers might be quite soft, the majority of it is extremely hard - and in the case of the deposits that form up the stem of the exhaust valves, more like cement than carbon. I have to use wire brushes, metal scrapers, and all sorts. There is no way that a simple chemical will remove those sorts of deposits, apart from concentrated battery acid, and you wouldn't want to put that in your petrol tank!
Posted 01 October 2012 - 10:20 AM
Posted 01 October 2012 - 10:37 PM
I watched it being done on wheeler dealers and they showed the before and after results. But would like to hear it from someone else too.
Posted 02 October 2012 - 10:33 AM
Posted 03 October 2012 - 01:20 PM
Posted 04 October 2012 - 07:16 AM
i have fitted a new cabin filter, air filter, turbo breather filter and am waiting for a set of torx sockets through the post before i can fit the crank case breather then i just need to change the oil then its job done till spring, im looking at using halfords semi synthetic oil @ £20 for 5 liters, after reading the night mares about the under tray i am considering a oil suction pump to suck the oil out, lazy i know but alot less hassle
Carl - under tray is dead easy, and suction pumps don't get all the crud off the bottom of the sump. You want a 36mm socket for the oil filter, there are special ones at the motor factors/halfords for the purpose. I believe the current guidance is to use FULLY synthetic oil.
Posted 04 October 2012 - 01:41 PM
On the subject of oil, i was thinking ahead ref Gear/Transfer box oil and front and rear diff oil as these are the things i would change on military Land Rovers, the dealer told me they (diff) are sealed units which can only be topped up ? seems a bit stupid as the car is permanant 4x4. Can any anyone shed any light in relation to locatons of filler/drain plugs and oils needed ?
Thank you for all your help so far
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