Paddy Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 Passenger side footwell is starting to go, is there a pre fabbed replacement or is it a case of DIY ? If there is a replacement who stocks them as I've had no joy with searches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 New footwells are widely available from most dealers, if you can't find them on-line just ring the usual suspects (DLS, Paddocks, JC etc etc) and ask them how much they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjojjas Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 depending upon how bad, I'd probably just make one. Nothing too complicated there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 Replacing a whole footwell is a lot of work - especially on the drivers side where pedals have to be removed. Usually it's the bottom section that rots away, and cutting out the rot and plating is a perfectly acceptable long-lasting repair. Drivers side. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted February 27, 2007 Author Share Posted February 27, 2007 Thanks lads, Its only just stating to get holes, not as bad as the photo from Les, so plating is the way to go. At least I can now talk sensibly to a body shop and show them examples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian J Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Hi everyone - I just found this thread and the pictures above are exactly what I'm in the middle of doing at the moment. I've cut out all the rot from the footwell and have a repair panel ready to weld in. Looking at the repaired picture above, that's obviously been welded in place inside the vehicle - my question is, what was done on the other side? I was planning to also weld round the hole from the engine side, as otherwise it's going to be a fabulous moisture trap and will probably rot again in double quick time. Make sense? Thanks in advance, Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 You won't be able to get at all of the weld seam from inside unless you remove the wing. You can weld from the inside, then get underneath/inside the wing and tap the overlap closed, then apply Waxoyl/seam sealer/underseal/whatever. Or you could.............. 2mm galv plate, and therefore bullet proof Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian J Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Hi Les - thanks for the very prompt reply! The wing is already off - it was the only way I could see how rotten the footwell was, as from the inside it didn't look too bad.... from the outside things looked rather unpleasant! That's a very nice job there - I reckon I'll stick to my original plan and waxoyl it all prior to reassembly. All the best, Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Hi Les - thanks for the very prompt reply! The wing is already off - it was the only way I could see how rotten the footwell was, as from the inside it didn't look too bad.... from the outside things looked rather unpleasant! That's a very nice job there - I reckon I'll stick to my original plan and waxoyl it all prior to reassembly. All the best, Ian. If you weld galvanized be careful as its nasty stuff I did some and had a headache for about a week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted June 6, 2010 Share Posted June 6, 2010 I recently patched both footwells on my 110. For ease and convenience I bought repair panels from my local land rover supplier and cut patches the correct size, had the patches required been smaller or only on one face I would have made by own. Having cut out the rot and prepared the surface I then stitch welded the plates in from the inside, lots of seam sealer was applied to both sides of the joint and then i painted with stonechip, primer and topcoat. I did this without removing the pedals or wings, with just the floor plates out. I consider this prefectly acceptable as a quick repair as there is corrosion higher up the bulkhead and I intend to replace it in the coming months. Had the bulkhead been otherwise sound I would have done as les did above and removed the necessary components to seam weld both sides. Also worth noting is that while the drivers side is a hatefull job, the passenger side is a pleasure. When performing this repair be mindfull of the wiring loom and fuel lines directly behind the drivers footwell, and also of any sound deadening fitted as these like to catch fire HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Def V8 90 Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 These chaps do an excellent range of repair bits, very speedy service too! http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/005-os-defender-footwell-repair-panel-5-p.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin7799 Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 out of interest is a rusty footwell with a few holes in it an mot failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian.bond Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Hi guys, I came across this post as I came across a patch of rust on a MY13 110 in the footwell while cleaning. Is this something I should be raising with the dealership? Advice on mitigating the problem from developing further? Have a look at the photo attached, it's along the seam under the pedals between the bottom plate and the panel that goes up behind the steering column. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 If it's still under warranty then you have nothing to loose by showing the dealer. If you don't want to take it in then clean off as much corrosion as possible, apply a rust neutraliser of your choice, prime and repaint ....alternatively just neutralise and apply Waxoyl or Dinitrol wax. The area under the windscreen is well known for leaks from both the foam screen frame to bulkhead seal and also dummy hinge brackets and pedal boxes so it may be worth checking you are not getting water running down from that area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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