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info required on V8 waterproofing


white90

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1) Gen dizzy cap and leads with all connections greased (NB not copperslip or graphite as they conduct)

Can make unwanted arc's

2) last resort wrap the dizy with bubble wrap quit tight

3) if its a hot wire system the coil will need to go into a sealed box as any water/steem will knock the coil out instantly

4) carb engines suffer more from steam intake than injection's do but still a big issue a snorkal is a must with a correctly sealed air system

That all you need to do

I know what my engine will and wont deal with this is why people are always shocked at how good the car is in water, but because I don't take the pi55 out of her so she doesn't let me down. There is only one time when she has failed in water and that was when I had just fitted the 4.2 an I did not know about the hot wire issues

Remember a V8 is never going to be as good in water as a TDi so don't push it too far

like a tdi will never climb as well as a V8. both facts

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AS Jon W about V8s and water,

He has tried LOADS of tweaks, some have been igenoiyus and have taken hours, problem though for him is if his V8 goes anywhere off road where 2 mice are ahving a water pistiol fight his will stop instantly.

We are both pursing a range of whizzy options, so expect some posts on this much later on...

In the meantime many have said and I would agree :

1. Do NOT use pattern caps, use a genuine Lucas

2. Same for Rotor Arm

3. Protect 3.9 amp on dizzy - fit remote kit

4. Fit Bosch Coil

5. Fit genuine leads, or better still Magncor

6. Do NOT use Champion Plugs, use NGKs

7. Shield over Cap either fizzy bottle of flash effort, but something

8. Get ECU up hig, or out of harms way or boxed

9. If you can remove viscous fan, replace electrics then switch off when in water so fan doesn't spray everywhere

10. On 3.5 Flapper systems, seal or protect resistor pack (silver box 1.5 x 4 inches) esp where plug goes in

11. Carry Giant WD40 tin at all times

Nige

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On dad's RR he's done the (very) budget version:

1) Snorkel - £20 of B&Q drainpipe and some silicone/gaffa tape

2) Ice-cream tub strapped over the coil with bungee

3) Ice-cream tub strapped over the dizzy with bungee

OK it still coughs in deep water but it's surprisingly resilient. Will get some piccies of engine bay if I can find 'em, failing that I'll take some :D

Slindon_110.jpg

Went through this LOTS of times just to make sure :rolleyes:

Oh and:

Aufsteller_WD-40_200ml1.jpg

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For light water use:

1.Plastic or metal shield to cover the front of the dizzy and stop any spray getting on it.

2.Silicone grease around the base of the dizzy cap to seal it.

3.Holts Easy Start spray on the all the leads. Pull up the rubber cap and spray the top of the dizzy cap and the lead, then slide the rubber cap into place before the Easy Start dries. Do the same on the coil.

4. As stated above about getting an electric fan fitted with a switch and loose the viscous one.

These work okay on a carb V8, not sure about EFi. ;)

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Anyone remember the 'Genuine' V8 waterproofing kit Craddocks were selling something like 10yrs ago. It had a replacement cap that you screwed new braided plug leads into. The new braided leads also screwed on the plugs to create a sealed system. Not sure what happened to the coil. It looked a typical military style OTT thing.

I knew a guy who bought one of the last sets from Craddocks. They told him they only wished they had a load more as it was one of the best selling items.

Kev

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I am really interested in this as i am "trying" to make my V8 completely waterproof too.

Few things i am doing:

A: replace whole ignition system with Megasquirt- use top quality leads and create a setting silicon plug to fit into each of the plugs at the block end. Use heat tape to seal the leads onto the coil packs. Coil packs themselves are already sealed but i might put them in IP56 enclosures to be safe

b: Sight ecu on roof console along with most of the switch gear, radio, CB etc

c: Taking engine timing from a flywheel mounted sensor- seal up the g/box with lots of silicone and fit expansion pipe where necessary

d: try and find a Luca waterproof alternator as used on Winterised Wolfs

e: Install seales batteries in rear tub, in a box, which is itself totally sealed apart from vent valves

f: Setup extended fuel tank breather with one way valve

g: Eleccy fan kill switch that will also kll the signal going form the engine temp control to megasquirt to stop engine temp dropping too quickly and causing the MS to start enrichment which may stall the engine (this latter part might not work)

h: Snorkel, obviously

i: Underengine skid protection which i reckon would stop most of the water gettting in anyway

j: vents on side of vehicle pointing backwards whcih i would hope will work as self extracters as long as you are travelling forward- just like in the bottom of dinghies

I am sure that there is some other stuff that i i will do too- most importantly i won't do any of the engine stuff until i am certain that it works properly and completely!

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g: Eleccy fan kill switch that will also kll the signal going form the engine temp control to megasquirt to stop engine temp dropping too quickly and causing the MS to start enrichment which may stall the engine (this latter part might not work)

Why not just set the cold start enrichment right in the first place, or set it on the lean side if you still have a problem? The only time I've heard this cause a problem was a new install who drove into an iced-over pond to try it out :lol: so perhaps he just hadn't set the warmup enrichments quite right?

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Why not just set the cold start enrichment right in the first place, or set it on the lean side if you still have a problem? The only time I've heard this cause a problem was a new install who drove into an iced-over pond to try it out :lol: so perhaps he just hadn't set the warmup enrichments quite right?

Hey fridge, long time no speaky

yeah i heard about that one too- but he's not the only one i've heard about.- if then engine temp picks up cold temps then it will automatically enrichen won't it? and if you are only idling then any significant enrichment would kill the engine dead surely? or i am being really thick here?

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Hmmm, think you have to get pretty rich before a V8 will stall.

The problem is that tuning the cold start is a PITA 'cos you've got to get the engine COLD to do it, and as soon as it warms up you've lost your chance. I never did mine properly, just stuck with the values from Phil Ringwood's setup which was a supercharged 3.5. It worked OK but I suspect it was on the rich side of things.

The coolant temp override isn't a bad idea though, all it takes is a SPDT switch and a resistor:

ms_clt_override.gif

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