Megansfolly Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 when i converted my 90 to 200tdi i used the existing fly wheel housing, well the engine had to come out due to crappy after market crank seal breaking up after 500km. i noticed that the drain hole on the old housing is on the face that mates to the engine and as so is blocked by the alloy ladder frame. the 200tdi housing the drain point is in the buttom, so i take it i just need to drill a hole in the buttom of the hosuing and bung the old hole up, is this what you guys have done when u have converted to 200tdi's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 could have kept the Discovery flywheel housing & adapted the lower bolt holes to suit as others have done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poohbear Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 Hi Megansfolley, I have indeed done the same as you - I bunged up the original drain hole when fitting the flywheel housing, I really must get round to drilling a new hole in the bottom of the housing Does anyone know what size to tap a hole so that the original wading plug will fit? DAve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 Why is there a drain hole at all? Surely if your wanting to offroad it you'd want the flywheel housing sealed against water ingress... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 so when your clutch slave/rear crank seals fail it doesn't destroy the clutch, like mine did mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megansfolly Posted April 16, 2009 Author Share Posted April 16, 2009 mine was blocked buy the engine and when the engine was running the fly wheel was picking up the oil and spray it out of the cover on the top of the case bloody oil seals only 500 miles old and already buggered you need to drill a 11.8 mm hole then tape with a bsp tap cant remebr size i ahve drain plugs if u wood like me to send u one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poohbear Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 mine was blocked buy the engine and when the engine was running the fly wheel was picking up the oil and spray it out of the cover on the top of the case bloody oil seals only 500 miles old and already buggeredyou need to drill a 11.8 mm hole then tape with a bsp tap cant remebr size i ahve drain plugs if u wood like me to send u one Cheers mate - yes would be handy to have a plug - I have one for the timing chest but never had one for the flywheel housing . How much do you want for one? Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megansfolly Posted April 16, 2009 Author Share Posted April 16, 2009 no worries about money drop me a pm with ya address and i ll pop some off in the post tomz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 1/4" BSP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 yup bell housing and timing cover are both 1/4 bsp, axles/gbox/tbox are 1/8 bsp Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poohbear Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 Thanks guys, will tap to 1/4 BSP and go from there. (Sorry for the highjack ) Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 bloody oil seals only 500 miles old and already buggered Mine (a ****part item) lasted it's first startup and leaked worse than the original I'd just taken out ! So I had to pull the engine out again and fit a genuine one Genuine seals everywhere from now on Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megansfolly Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 yes and was only 12 pounds more for proper one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poohbear Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 When I did my rear crank seal I started by fitting a 'pattern' part - then after coming across some threads here I ripped it out and fitted an original before putting the engine back together! I guess I'll see if I got it right when I drill the new drain hole D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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