TheBeastie Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Can I ask how long you might expect a clutch master cylinder to last? I replaced mine following brake fluid trickling down the clutch pedal about 3 and a half years ago. After two years it abruptly failed and since need was urgent (and weather was awful) I got local LR specialist to replace it. I had wondered if I had done something wrong since 2 years did not seem right. I am now (18 months later) seeing the familiar sheen on the clutch pedal again so suspect total failure is not far away. Is this normal? If not then is there something else wrong in the clutch system causing it to happen? Would appreciate any advice here since somehow replacing clutch master cylinder does not feel it should be a normal regular maintenance task. Thanks Malcy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 It seems master & slave like to go together, so I say change both for non white or blue boxed ones if you have to change one. I think the master's life isn't helped by being showered with water everytime you open the bonnet in England. Maybe your hose is porous? Is the fluid black? They don't seem to last long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Make sure the fluid is changed fully as well, this will help a great deal. My slave failed several years ago and I replaced it with a cheapo non-branded one from local motor factors as that's all I could get at short notice. It went again a couple of weeks ago. This time I replaced both master and slave with branded (TRW/Delphi) units, which hopefully will last a bit longer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 The one on my 2001 90TD5 lasted about 7 years (60,000 miles). It didn't leak fluid, it just didn't pump properly any more. I fitted a new [bearmach] cylinder. Looking at the old one it was the rubber seal on the piston that had failed - I've re-rubbered it and now have it vacuum-packed-and-rustproofed and stored awaiting the now-5-year-old replacement to fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Make sure that the pushrod length is set correctly. I think some of the time premature death may be down to less than careful setting up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruuman Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I've found it's good to pack the push rod side with grease. The genuine parts ones are like this. Do not buy cheap ones, if the body is made of aluminium it's carp. They should be cast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I've found it's good to pack the push rod side with grease. The genuine parts ones are like this. Do not buy cheap ones, if the body is made of aluminium it's carp. They should be cast. Bit of a sweeping statement there? The last one I fitted was cast. Cast aluminium. Made by Delphi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruuman Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Bit of a sweeping statement there? The last one I fitted was cast. Cast aluminium. Made by Delphi sorry meant to say cast iron. Cadmium plated too. Delphi stuff is usually pretty good, sure it will be fine. I have changed more of these than I want to remember and the genuine part quality ones last the longest by far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosecon Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 I used to have problems with mine, every 20.000 miles. I tried 2 new genuine ones, same result, I tried a repair set from Lucas, same result. I finally dismantled it and went to a small local brake workshop and I found some compatible seals from a Toyota...never had any problem since and it is mote than 35.000miles ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big.Mike Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 I used to have problems with mine, every 20.000 miles. I tried 2 new genuine ones, same result, I tried a repair set from Lucas, same result. I finally dismantled it and went to a small local brake workshop and I found some compatible seals from a Toyota...never had any problem since and it is mote than 35.000miles ago. I don't suppose you know the part number of the toyota seals? Would be a fantastic fix! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 The OE Land Rover/Girling ones seem to have really poor pistons and seals, much to my astonishment as I always used these cylinders on race cars. After replacing two genuine ones in as many years I ended up replacing it with a PBR m/c (cheaper than a seal kit) and it's been fine for many, many years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big.Mike Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 The OE Land Rover/Girling ones seem to have really poor pistons and seals, much to my astonishment as I always used these cylinders on race cars. After replacing two genuine ones in as many years I ended up replacing it with a PBR m/c (cheaper than a seal kit) and it's been fine for many, many years. Aggghhh! I just bought a new master cylinder yesterday I don't suppose you have the part number, did you have to make any modifications or was it a straight swap? Cheers, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 I just got a TWR as the one in the Defender at the moment lasted only 40'000 Kms I too would like to know more about those Toyota seals, right out of curiosity... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 Has anyone thought about using stainless steel sleeving? There is a master cylinder done with stainless for a triumph stag so I know it can be done: http://www.ldparts.c...&searchby=title Has anyone thought of using/making a sleeve as such I'd love something that does'nt leak after 12 months or so of use? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 To have a cylinder re-sleeved costs about the same as a decent new one. But it will last for ever! It is a well-known fact that the Defender m/c is actually a SII item in disguise - check the AF threads for a start. And they last the life of the vehicle in the Series. In the Defender there is something wrong with the angle of the pushrod which causes the aluminium bore to wear oval - this is why it is useless to change the seals in an old cylinder. The stainless sleeve does not wear so the problem is fixed. You can, however improve things by trying to make sure that the pushrod is in a straight line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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