geoffbeaumont

Already have a couple of tubes of instant gasket around - they gaskets have only done a few hundred miles, so they're probably fine. I wouldn't call it spare, but knowing what a pig everything in that area of the block is to get to, I might sacrifice it anyway

Is it networked? If it's on a domain, windows slows down a lot. Combined with the hardware (should be usable, depending what you're running on it - Word is pretty hefty, especially recent versions), that would make for pretty lousy performance. For comparison, I have a fast 64bit Athlon at work (2.6GHz, I think), with a Gig of memory in it and on a windows domain - it's quite a bit slower than the 1.1GHz/512Mb Athlon I have at home running much the same software (unless I open several apps - then the memory starts to show). This machines a laptop, similar spec to my home windows machine but running Linux - it runs circles round both of them

Nope I tell 'em I don't celebrate the pagan festival of the dead. Didn't stop some of the little runts ducking under my arm and invading my house, though. I'm quite used to dealing with kids, but that would have been a very scary experience for a little old lady... The really frightening thing is these kids were only about eight or nine - and they're going into a complete strangers house, uninvited. Luckily, my dog's too old and stupid to defend his patch...

And more rust... What's the mileage? And if it's got to the 150k mark, or will do during your years driving, has it had head gaskets/cam/tappets/timing gear done (sore point - mines off the road at the moment courtesy of disintegrated timing gear)? You can probably tell whether it's running well, whether the gearbox is well behaved (check it's got nice clean transmission fluid if it's an auto). Check whether things like chassis bushes, dampers, springs are tired or whether they still have plenty of life in them. How reliable do you need it to be? How much time can you afford to spend on it, or alternatively how much money at the garage? Realistically, old Range Rovers are a bit on the attention seeking side - there always seems to be something in need of work. On the other hand, when they're running right, they're fantastic - if you get one, you will get into 'the Rangie thing'. £800 is pretty cheap for a tidy car, although there are plenty of ropy ones around for that money - you might get a bargain, but if you don't know Range Rovers you might get stung. By far the best bet is to find someone who does know what to look for and take them with you - if you ask nicely there might be a forumeer in you neck of the woods who's prepared to go along with you and give you some advice in return for a couple of beers Lastly - and probably most importantly - there are plenty of Range Rovers around, so if in doubt, walk away.

Oh? I was told otherwise. But that said I can't for the life of me remember where I heard that, so I can't say how reliable the source was (obviously not that reliable...).

GLASS are a national organisation - see here.

Everyone seems to recommend NGK for the V8s. Can't remember the exact model but if you have a dig around on RPI's web site I'm pretty sure they've got a bit that tells you.

Seen their vehicles around, but never used them. They advertise 'extreme driving situations', but I've never seen so much as a scratch on any of their trucks, so I suspect it's a good bit tamer than they make out! Why not join GLASS* and get the details from them? * - he says, in rash hypocrisy. Promise I'll join up when I get the truck back on the road...

That's the general idea - although I've played with it before and never managed to get an audible knock on LPG, even though it was massively over advanced and barely drivable. Yes, I have though about it - although not just lighting an LED. Megasquirt can use a knock sensor (think that functionality is reasonably stable now - it was very experimental when I started out on this...far too long ago). That's how mine is done at the moment , but there's only room to fit a 1mm thick wheel into the pulley stack on a '93 Range Rover without displacing the pullies. I think the wheel with the large inner diameter is designed to be welded on rather than clamped (read the description on the eBay sale) - with that thickness of wheel that would be the only way to do it on mine.

Think I said I would, but I don't need a rolling road of any description to describe the power curve of my engine at the moment. It looks like this : Key: Gemima XXXX 30 | 20 | 10 | KW/h 0 X---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 0 3000 6000 RPM Hmm...that worked well - looks fine if you edit it, but it once it's rendered to HTML it loses all the spacing. Can't be bothered doing a graphic so you'll just have to use your imaginations

Hmm, think with the tinplate mechano pullies on my truck I'm probably better off with the Ford trigger wheel I've got - don't really fancy trying to weld anything onto them... Taking this thread vaguely back on topic (sorry HfH), I guess one of those dizzy profiles would be a good place to start from when I get to setting up the Megasquirt ignition tables?

I'm interested - should have the Range Rover back in action by then Might have got the wrong end of the stick (I'm sure Fi won't be slow to tell me if I have...), but I think she meant if we booked into one of the public play days then people who don't currently know of the forum would meet us and hopefully drop in here. What places are those? What insurance conditions do they have (obviously not licensed and insured drivers only)? I've got a few friends dying to have a play with the Range Rover who are too young to insure on it (for what I'm prepared to pay, anyway).

Got any piccies? Wouldn't mind seeing how they compare to mine, considering I'll have the engine out soon, so his are vastly better it'd be no great hassle to swop over

Not Land Rover related (other than it's what's keeping me on the road while the Range Rover's dead). The escort I bought recently off a mate has suffered in the past at the hands of less than competent mechanics - about six months back it boiled up on the motorway and blew it's head gasket. Turned out the reason it boiled up was that the cooling fan wasn't cutting in. The garage decided that something in the fuse box or engine management system was fried and wired up a switch on the dashboard for turning the fan on manually. Two other garages and an auto electrician also diagnosed a fried fuse box and said it wasn't economical to repair. Shortly after, the car died due to electrical trouble related to the fan bypass - it had been wired into the low current electrics in the steering column, and had damaged the ignition switch (problems with the lights turned out to be unrelated worn column switches). The bypass also used a cheap toggle switch, nowhere near adequate for the current drawn by the fan, and was wired up with (wait for it...) cheap speaker cable, which was blackened along most of it's length. Absolute miracle it never set fire to the car! Obviously, with several 'experts' blaming it on the fuse box we started looking for faults there - not only could we find nothing wrong, we couldn't even figure out where the relays for the fan were... Eventually it dawned on us that the fan on this car isn't controlled by the engine management system - it's operated by a simple thermal sensor in a cooling pipe right next to the fan. The fault all the experts had missed? The £5 sensor had gone...

'Cos he's got a great track record for keeping his engine in one piece... Should get started on it next month after I get the new engine off robhybrid.

Main dealers don't even enter the equation where my truck's concerned - it's an LPG conversion so they won't touch it.

I think the 'Steve L' in question was Steve Lundlack of Lund Engines

I started out paying other people to do some of the maintenance on my Range Rover, but quickly came to two conclusions: 1) Land Rover specialists come in two varieties - cheap ones and good ones. 2) It needed far too much attention for my finances to survive using either... I ended up doing pretty much all the work myself - it's only been into a garage for one job in the last few months, because I didn't have time to fix it before going away for the weekend. The garage made a hash of it and I ended up staying home anyway Then again, whether you want to take advice from me is another matter, considering my landy is sat on my drive with a dead engine...

[mutter]Just had new manifold gaskets[/mutter] Along with plenty of other bits that are going to waste since I did the head gaskets just before it died And whoever that was at the back saying 'told you to do the camshaft and timing gear at the same time' - Shut UP Auto box not manual though, so no clutch. Do I need any new bolts/nuts/gaskets for mating the new engine to the gearbox?

Think I'm going to have help, fortunately... What seals/bolts etc. should I lay in? I'm guessing new engine mount rubbers are a good idea?

Haven't done one of those either Cheers,

Some of you will doubtless remember that Gemima made a shameful return home on the back of a recovery truck a few weeks back (much to the amusement of my neighbours, to whom my constant fight to fix her faster than she breaks is a running joke). Seems the timing gear disintegrated, and a new engine seems to be the most economical solution. So... What do I need to strip off the engines in order to facilitate getting them in and out? What do I need to remove from around them? For instance, do I need to take the radiator out? That would be a pain as mine has oil coolers in the ends, and I don't want to drain the autobox if I can avoid it. Or do I have to do that anyway? What bits do I need to lay in before starting the job? Can you tell I know exactly what I'm doing?

That confirms LAL as the correct colour code

Speaking from a position of almost total ignorance (some would drop the 'almost' ), if 'kinder' to the transmission is what you're after, would limited slip diffs not be the route to go? Or are they any better than lockers? I'm struggling to think of an example of how they'd help with the situations discussed above - for instance I don't think they'd stop the problem of a spinning wheel suddenly gaining grip.

Halfrauds are highly hit and miss for getting paint mixed - Leamington Spa were completely clueless when I went in there after some Ardennes Green, but Selly Oak (Birmingham) looked it up in no time. Also seems to vary from store to store what pigments they stock. Even with the code in hand (off the can from Selly Oak), Leamington couldn't mix me any because they didn't stock all the ingredients... Probably irrelevant for Land Rovers (unless you aren't trying to match existing paintwork) but steer clear of Halfords own brand ready mixed paints - they're rubbish, especially the laquer.