geoffbeaumont

GLASS are a national organisation - see here.

Everyone seems to recommend NGK for the V8s. Can't remember the exact model but if you have a dig around on RPI's web site I'm pretty sure they've got a bit that tells you.

Seen their vehicles around, but never used them. They advertise 'extreme driving situations', but I've never seen so much as a scratch on any of their trucks, so I suspect it's a good bit tamer than they make out! Why not join GLASS* and get the details from them? * - he says, in rash hypocrisy. Promise I'll join up when I get the truck back on the road...

That's the general idea - although I've played with it before and never managed to get an audible knock on LPG, even though it was massively over advanced and barely drivable. Yes, I have though about it - although not just lighting an LED. Megasquirt can use a knock sensor (think that functionality is reasonably stable now - it was very experimental when I started out on this...far too long ago). That's how mine is done at the moment , but there's only room to fit a 1mm thick wheel into the pulley stack on a '93 Range Rover without displacing the pullies. I think the wheel with the large inner diameter is designed to be welded on rather than clamped (read the description on the eBay sale) - with that thickness of wheel that would be the only way to do it on mine.

Think I said I would, but I don't need a rolling road of any description to describe the power curve of my engine at the moment. It looks like this : Key: Gemima XXXX 30 | 20 | 10 | KW/h 0 X---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 0 3000 6000 RPM Hmm...that worked well - looks fine if you edit it, but it once it's rendered to HTML it loses all the spacing. Can't be bothered doing a graphic so you'll just have to use your imaginations

Hmm, think with the tinplate mechano pullies on my truck I'm probably better off with the Ford trigger wheel I've got - don't really fancy trying to weld anything onto them... Taking this thread vaguely back on topic (sorry HfH), I guess one of those dizzy profiles would be a good place to start from when I get to setting up the Megasquirt ignition tables?

I'm interested - should have the Range Rover back in action by then Might have got the wrong end of the stick (I'm sure Fi won't be slow to tell me if I have...), but I think she meant if we booked into one of the public play days then people who don't currently know of the forum would meet us and hopefully drop in here. What places are those? What insurance conditions do they have (obviously not licensed and insured drivers only)? I've got a few friends dying to have a play with the Range Rover who are too young to insure on it (for what I'm prepared to pay, anyway).

Got any piccies? Wouldn't mind seeing how they compare to mine, considering I'll have the engine out soon, so his are vastly better it'd be no great hassle to swop over

Not Land Rover related (other than it's what's keeping me on the road while the Range Rover's dead). The escort I bought recently off a mate has suffered in the past at the hands of less than competent mechanics - about six months back it boiled up on the motorway and blew it's head gasket. Turned out the reason it boiled up was that the cooling fan wasn't cutting in. The garage decided that something in the fuse box or engine management system was fried and wired up a switch on the dashboard for turning the fan on manually. Two other garages and an auto electrician also diagnosed a fried fuse box and said it wasn't economical to repair. Shortly after, the car died due to electrical trouble related to the fan bypass - it had been wired into the low current electrics in the steering column, and had damaged the ignition switch (problems with the lights turned out to be unrelated worn column switches). The bypass also used a cheap toggle switch, nowhere near adequate for the current drawn by the fan, and was wired up with (wait for it...) cheap speaker cable, which was blackened along most of it's length. Absolute miracle it never set fire to the car! Obviously, with several 'experts' blaming it on the fuse box we started looking for faults there - not only could we find nothing wrong, we couldn't even figure out where the relays for the fan were... Eventually it dawned on us that the fan on this car isn't controlled by the engine management system - it's operated by a simple thermal sensor in a cooling pipe right next to the fan. The fault all the experts had missed? The £5 sensor had gone...

'Cos he's got a great track record for keeping his engine in one piece... Should get started on it next month after I get the new engine off robhybrid.

Main dealers don't even enter the equation where my truck's concerned - it's an LPG conversion so they won't touch it.

I think the 'Steve L' in question was Steve Lundlack of Lund Engines

I started out paying other people to do some of the maintenance on my Range Rover, but quickly came to two conclusions: 1) Land Rover specialists come in two varieties - cheap ones and good ones. 2) It needed far too much attention for my finances to survive using either... I ended up doing pretty much all the work myself - it's only been into a garage for one job in the last few months, because I didn't have time to fix it before going away for the weekend. The garage made a hash of it and I ended up staying home anyway Then again, whether you want to take advice from me is another matter, considering my landy is sat on my drive with a dead engine...

[mutter]Just had new manifold gaskets[/mutter] Along with plenty of other bits that are going to waste since I did the head gaskets just before it died And whoever that was at the back saying 'told you to do the camshaft and timing gear at the same time' - Shut UP Auto box not manual though, so no clutch. Do I need any new bolts/nuts/gaskets for mating the new engine to the gearbox?

Think I'm going to have help, fortunately... What seals/bolts etc. should I lay in? I'm guessing new engine mount rubbers are a good idea?

Haven't done one of those either Cheers,

Some of you will doubtless remember that Gemima made a shameful return home on the back of a recovery truck a few weeks back (much to the amusement of my neighbours, to whom my constant fight to fix her faster than she breaks is a running joke). Seems the timing gear disintegrated, and a new engine seems to be the most economical solution. So... What do I need to strip off the engines in order to facilitate getting them in and out? What do I need to remove from around them? For instance, do I need to take the radiator out? That would be a pain as mine has oil coolers in the ends, and I don't want to drain the autobox if I can avoid it. Or do I have to do that anyway? What bits do I need to lay in before starting the job? Can you tell I know exactly what I'm doing?

That confirms LAL as the correct colour code

Speaking from a position of almost total ignorance (some would drop the 'almost' ), if 'kinder' to the transmission is what you're after, would limited slip diffs not be the route to go? Or are they any better than lockers? I'm struggling to think of an example of how they'd help with the situations discussed above - for instance I don't think they'd stop the problem of a spinning wheel suddenly gaining grip.

Halfrauds are highly hit and miss for getting paint mixed - Leamington Spa were completely clueless when I went in there after some Ardennes Green, but Selly Oak (Birmingham) looked it up in no time. Also seems to vary from store to store what pigments they stock. Even with the code in hand (off the can from Selly Oak), Leamington couldn't mix me any because they didn't stock all the ingredients... Probably irrelevant for Land Rovers (unless you aren't trying to match existing paintwork) but steer clear of Halfords own brand ready mixed paints - they're rubbish, especially the laquer.

Now that's a good idea...I was toying with the idea of something like this, but I was thinking of replacing the control module with something possibly based on Megasquirt hardware*. That'd let you do a few other things, and (where the thinking started from) get round the problem of reseting the wretched thing after a fault, but you could do a lot with just a few potentiometers... * - shouldn't be too tricky on a Classic like mine. I suspect it would be much harder on later land rovers as I think the EAS controller is linked to the rest of the electronics.

Eh? My mallet isn't at all shiny...

That sounds like something off a particularly disturbing 'live surgery' reality TV show...

I reckon right now we're only talking one (maybe with a couple of different colours), in order to keep things simple and low cost, but if people want individual forum stickers or whatever, and are prepared to stump up the cost of them, then I say lets go for it

From the board stats (bottom of the home page): Doesn't look to me like things are getting quieter (yes, I know, lies, damn lies and statistics...). I hope we're not ignoring anyone - if we are, we aren't doing our job very well. It's been said enough times, but this forum belongs to its members - mods and admins run the show on your behalf.