geoffbeaumont

Cheers - I had found a site selling engine ECUs that seemed to suggest there was an overlap (92-93) where both 3.5 and 3.9 were available in the Discovery, but everywhere else tallies with your version. Looks like it's a 3.5 I'm getting then - Robhybrid thought it was 3.9 but phoned me up today to say he had a nasty suspicion it was actually a 3.5. He's still doing me a huge favour so I'm not exactly complaining...

What engine would a K reg V8 discovery have? I think 3.5 and 3.9 where both available, but how do you tell the difference (this one doesn't have the capacity cast into the plenum like a range rover)?

Other side of Wales - Llanfair Caereinion. There's also the small issue of getting it out at my end, as I don't run to a hoist - I'm going to build a ramp and lower it down that, but I intend to take plenty of time about that to make sure it's safe and controlled. Thanks for the offer, though

Umm, the military D shape ones are the proper JATE rings (or at least some of them are - no idea if they're all to military spec)... JATE stands for Joint Air Transport Estabilishment.

No, it doesn't double it - but it does spread the load if it's long enough. The longer the bridle (or more specifically the more accute the angle at the centre) the better the load is transferred along the line of the tow instead of pulling the anchor points together. If it's too short it will actually work like a crude pulley and allow you to put very high loads in completely the wrong direction - if your bridle isn't long enough to give you at least a 90degree angle at the centre you're probably better off without it.

I've got JATE rings (fourth down on Famous Four site, which I think is where I got them from) front and back on my classic rangie. Front is tight but fits - I'd guess it'll be the same on a disco, but I'm not sure how the bumper is mounted (they replace one of the bumper-chassis bolts). Back depends on whether you have a tow hitch - without the hitch, they fit with plenty of slack, I've ground mine out a bit to allow me to fit them over the tow hitch 'legs'*, obviously at the expense of some strength. Again, I'm not sure how different the disco is. Subjective, of course, but the forged JATE rings look much nicer than the square three piece ones Best piccie I could find of them: *There is logic to this... I remove the hitch when I'm not towing, in order to avoid its notorious ability to act as a highly effective ground anchor. However, because I have an underwing petrol tank outboard of one of the bolts and the LPG tanks inboard of it removing that JATE ring is a real pain, involving dropping the petrol tank which then (just) allows the bolt to be inserted. Now I can just unbolt the tank and swing it to one side, which allows me to withdraw the bolt from the inside end of the JATE ring, far enough to fit the tow hitch.

Worth the money then?

Sounds like a great way to hit the tourist trade really hard. Does the peak district have enough other industries to survive that?

On the other hand, I work in a rural area (near Leamington Spa) and commute from the middle of a council estate in Birmingham because I can't afford a house where I work. Congestion charging would force me to quit my job and find one in town - which is of course, exactly what it's intended to do, but there are knock on effects. My employers would be hit very hard as a high percentage of the workforce commute a fair distance, quite a few of us from the Birmingham area where charges would be quite likely. They'd either have to give us large raises or lose us - and we'd be very difficult to replace for the same reasons. Given our current dependency on the car (ie. many of us live and work in places that make commuting by other means impractical or impossible), any measure that makes something we can't avoid (at least in the short term) more expensive is surely going to result in increased inflation? On the other hand, if commuting into the city gets horrifically expensive, that should push up house prices in town and cause them to drop in rural areas... I vote for criminally high congestion charges on the M42 and M40, right now. This is a problem we must solve!

Hard for any marketing department to ignore his influence in the UK.

It has occurred to me that as I'm about to rip the old floor out anyway, a little 'modification' would give me access to the chassis cross members. If they aren't strong enough I've got plenty to worry about without the engine... Need a little care to make sure there were no rub points but that should do the job Even if he can, it doesn't help with getting the trailer back where it came from...

True, but something big and flat with also help to stop oil drips reaching the carpet (although I might take that out). Something that's sadly lacking in a range rover Suggestions? Feed the rope through under the tailgate and round the rear cross member? Might do some damage if it gets used, but better than me getting damaged by a flying engine... If it fits with the seat backs up that would at least stop it heading for'ard under braking (doubt it would do much in an impact), but I don't think it will. So would I, but even if I can borrow a trailer I've no way of getting it over there (or back if I borrow it in Wales) - the rangie's the only vehicle I have access to that has a tow hitch. Besides, I have a bad track record with trailers...

Depends how much you value (or for that matter, have available of) your own time. You're talking about doing a fair bit of work to the defender, whereas the landcruiser is pretty much 'out of the box'. I'd guess in most parts of the world you can get the older, less electronic, versions of either fixed easily. I love my rangie but frankly if I was heading somewhere I really needed a reliable truck I'd be taking a very hard look at that toyota...

Quick question - can anyone have a quick measure of their Range Rover classic and tell me: width of boot (minimum usable floor width) length of boot (tailgate to rear seats, with the seats folded) distance between structural members supporting floor There is a reason for this... I have a dead V8 to bring back from Robhybrid's this weekend, hopefully in the back of a fixed rangie - but I don't trust my boot floor that much (not sure I would even if it wasn't rotten), so I need to take a bit of plywood or somesuch to spread the load. Unfortunately the truck's already in Wales and I didn't think to measure up before Rob collected it

If I had one like that I'd keep it covered too...

Wikkid, innit? That's roughly what one of the local yoof was telling me I should do to my Rangie a few months back

Why not pass it to Tony (White90) and get him to put it in the Tech Archive?

Never killed one of mine, but a mate found his in his pocket when he was changing...after I'd taken him caving... Whipped the battery out and sat it over one of the car heater vents, then next to the wood stove back at the caving hut, and it did come back to life, but died a couple of days later. Fortunately he was due an upgrade anyway. You can get a new phone for £20 - angle for free next time My current phone came at the price I like and that included a proper car kit.

Sounds like I've a tent to patch as well as a truck to fix...

Tony, what have we got in the kitty at the moment?

Many thanks to Neil Marshall, who's written us a proper Disclaimer and Terms of Use for the forums. You should all go have a read and make sure you're happy to play by the rules. As stated in the shiny new boilerplate down at the bottom of every page, if you do not agree to abide by the Terms of Use, please do not use this Forum. That said, I shouldn't think any of you will find anything you aren't happy to agree to - there's nothing either unusual or draconian in there, just standard common sense stuff like you'll find on most sites.

That's a thought...I've got the boot floor to change before I put mine back on the road. Guess I should do the A-frame while it's out. I've got the polybushes for it already.

PIP doesn't go anywhere near the coils - it's the timing signal to the engine management system. I'll try and dig out an EDIS wiring diagram later, but essentially the EDIS controller takes an input from the crank position sensor and in the absence of a signal on the SAW line (from the engine management system to the EDIS controller) fires the coil pack trigger lines at 10degBTDC. So while you've got the detail confused you're right in principle, although the performance and economy with a fixed 10deg advance will be pretty miserable.

Didn't find it too bad, and I've had mine apart a couple of times while messing around with EDIS crank sensor trigger wheels.

Not really - see further up this thread for an explanation.