NicTheOrange90

Does this help?

Guys, It would be preferrable to have a chat about this rather than send messages to and frow. PM me and ill get in touch. I get lots of advice from this forum, so would be well up for getting forum members a discount.

Davie, you would need the http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...me=STRK:MESE:IT complete load area (you could take seats out, put matting in and then put seats back (or cut the wing top rubber to allow the sat frames). Front area would be http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...me=STRK:MESE:IT This should cover most of your vehicle. If you had the lot, Id drop the postage on the front footwell mats to £4.99 (others are already free postage). All sales to be via ebay unless collection in person.

It might be that in standard form its too low for you to rest your arm on (if thats what you want to do). If this is the case you can always get some steel square/rectangular section and bolt through this to raise the box up. I have seen self tapping screws used, but IMHO bolts are better and should last longer (esp with some penny washers). I have the mobile storage one which has a radio mounted at the front, so raised mine up to help with elbow and give more space for the wires.

They are pretty cheap at the moment, but always open to a deal if you buy more than one item !

Hi, I make rubber matting and soundproofing for Defenders (footwells, 2nd row seats & rear load area). Im looking to branch out into the series vehicle market, and need vehicles for templates. If your interetested and can bring your vehicle to me in East Kent, you will get a mat free of charge for the item we make templates for. If you want to see what the Defender mats look like, visit my ebay shop http://stores.ebay.co.uk/U-PM-COM-Land-Rover No cutting or damage to your vehicle, but it must be presentable and be using standard panels for the year (in the footwell areas). Early Jan and nothing in the Xmas break. PM me for more details. Thanks

My ex Mod 90 has the metal T handle types, fitted with 3/16th (4.9mm) pop rivets, but it had 4mm screws/nuts when it arrived with me. I also have a slam panel from a 110 which had a fully functioning release arm. You can only open the bonnet if you know where the catch is behind the grill (fitted the panel/catch as increased security). If you want catches with lockable hasps have a look at www.holden.co.uk under body fittings, then bonet thingys.

My renewal for one of the well known recovery operators came in todays post. For some reason they want to charge me £93.00 for roadside assistance and relay (no home start, or relay plus). The web gives a 25%discount which would make my renewal £23.00 cheaper. When I called, I was put through to a discounts department, who said that they checked to see how many call outs Id had (me been good and only had one with the 90 a few years ago) so as Id been a good boy I could have the extra discount.. I took the offer of having Mrs W included on joint membership for an additional £3.00 and have been put in a special discount plan for next year (probably called 'Akward Ba**ards').. I wonder how much they make by not telling anyone that they can have the discounts if they arsk for it..... I wont name them as its not in the spirit of this site.

Have a look at towing or trailer or caravan places for spreader plates... Even Halfrauds might have some

I mailed them a few months back to ask same question, they never got back to me, and there are none left on their site so assume they have run out. IMHO they do look nicer

IMHO if you have a properly fitted towing attachment that should be good enough for 3500kg. I say properly fitted as Ive seen a few that are not shall we say fitted in accordance with manufacturers instructions. If its a NATO type pintle and has a proper backing plate and your rear x-member is not rusty, you should also be fine. I have a Southdown removable system which also has a ring adaptor that can be fitted in place of the towing bracket.

I put my fuses and wiggly amp things in the dry (sorry not much help to you now) This is the type of thing you could consider fitting http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBr...mp;cacheID=ukie There are loads about and some more waterproof than this... In the meantime, a rubber/latex glove and a lacky band is a start !

I get mine from local lifting tackle places (its rated) , but got starter set from David Bowyer with 1st winch and bumper. Whatever you get, look after it, and keep it clean/oiled. What sort of recovery are you looking at, yours off road, yours on road, or some one elses in either? IMHO the webbing strap and hooks are quick and easy for roadside recovery (where time is of the essence to move a stranded vehicle to a safer location). If your recovering a car from a ditch etc, then I suggest that you consider what you are going to attach onto the car (a reovery chain with locking hook is sometimes better and wont get chaffed, or a 2m strop (that will eventually get cuts in it and thrown) could also do the job. Many of the D shackles simply wont fit on any place on a car as they are just too big. I use Bow shackles on 50mm ball tow couplings for recovery, but would normally not use this for any distance. I use a rigid towbar (off the shelf from many garage supplies) for towing cars as many of the drivers are not experienced at being towed and run over the two rope or worse into the back of your car (which ruins their day when car is dented in and Defender towball has scratched paint !) If you visit a local supplier, you can ask to try the shackles on your vehicle to make sure they fit. Finally, when using shackles, that have a screw in pin, tighten up then slacken off 1/4 turn to ease getting them undone again. Hope Im not teaching you to suck eggs etc... Finally, (no really this time), if your recovering another vehicle from the roadside, DONT put yourself a risk, DO check your insurance, and DO wear reflective clothing, remembering that the driver of the next 38tonner/car/van etc that comes past, might not be fully awake !

I second the water theory, it holds water for me ...

Cluaran Good luck !

If your asking me..... Its on my list of things to do, but wont be for a few weeks.....

Sounds just like mine... Started when I was towing a trailer, (sounded like the air brakes on some trucks, but a lilttle bit horn like). I asked about TC on the forum and it seems its a commonish thing. The noise on mine seems to be nearside rear not front. Wheelbearings all OK, does it about 10-15% of the time.

Chris, I know its out of your normal route, but your welcome to come and try my 110 with Disco gears. Im in Kent (East) so its not a five minute trip, but you can see what it would be like before you change. Also I used CS gears ini Coventry for mine, but Ashcroft are probably closer to you.

Do you have the transfer box as well? Is it a 1.6? I may take you up on the offer. I do have the transfer box, but not sure what the ratio is, its an NAD so great if you need bigger tyres. PM me if you need more details or want my mail address/phone number

So here are the questions, 1, How much would the winch be worth? you say its not working as it should, it would fetch more if you could get any problems rectified before you take it off... 2, How much for parts to convert back to a manual? (will need clutch master cylinder and peddle as well). I am breaking an ex Mod 110 which has the gearbox and all other bits still in situ - yours for £170.00 (or would swap for winchy) 3, How much would the 3 speed auto box, with all bits be worth? there (IMHO) does not seem to be the market for the 3 speeds, so unless your looking at someone who has a similar box for spares... 4, How much is the conversion plate worth? as above 5, Should I do it or not? personally, I consider getting prices for what the vehicle as a whole would be worth, then you can balance if its worth changing or buying a manual....

I used to work for these guys in the UK http://www.setrab.com aside from getting any oil cooler in any size, they did a cooling pack which had its own fans. Been a while since I was there, and you often have to buy from a reseller such as http://www.lister.co.uk/Uploads/products/pdf/oilcoolers.pdf (also worked for them for a while) ask for Andy Berry and he can sort you out with any cooler and hydraulic swaged pipe ends like wot he did for my V8 !

You could make up the bits you need from here http://www.jetex.co.uk/website/custom_part...amp;qty_U714810= Ive just ordered the bits to make a side exit exhaust

Ill ask him on Monday, he normally fits the screens in my vehicles and has done a few now as I have to pay (my motor trader does not have glass cover) Im carefull about quality and install costs.

why not send him a nanocom from bearmach, at around £200 they can help him diagnose problems and you can either look up the fault code or if he has a laptop he can get an idea himself !

I was always under the impression that a good deal was one you were happy to be on either end of ... That being said, I prefer a 265/75 myself.