Edd

He did!!!

More info here ep90.com

You could do as Les suggests but if you do there are a few things you need to make shure of. the most inportant thing is that You need an accurate set of scales. you need to find the tare (or empty ) weight of the bottle. which is usualy stamped on it. you also need to find the maximum weight of gas that it can hold. also should be stamped on it. Stand the bttle on the scales and fill with liquid from the other cyclinder untill the scales show the tare weight plus the maximium gas weight. then stop and disconect. You realy dont want to just connect the botles to gether, open them and lert then equalise, as if there is too much gas in the refilled botle a vcery small external temp change can cause the bottle to explode! You also cannot tell how much gas is in rthe bottles by looking at the preasure. Its somthing i would leave allone personaly and get it refilled properly. nb. also the valve on an argon shiled bottle is a gas only valve so you in theroy need to invert the large bottle to transfder the gas as a liquid. Edd

Edit: Sorry double post

Lt77 g and h suffix boxes are the later improved versions that are generaly regarded as the best. They are known as lt77s boxes . Well thats what i have found out. please correct me if im wrong

Just to update on progress can be found here 110 rebuild Its getting there!

From the topoff the list so thats rrp and number in stock. Its a 30mm spanner you need. Edd

Heres the bolt sizes that i have found. i cant say i have checked them all but will add to the listn next week when i put the 110 back together Edd No LR Part No Size Details Description 4 NTC5401 BOLT M10 X 120MM BLACK Bumper 2 MRC9420 BOLT M12 X 180MM BULKHEAD to CHASSIS 4 BH108201L BOLT M8 X 100MM Bulkhead support to chassis front 6 BH108201L BOLT M8 X 100MM Gearbox mount to chassis 2 BH110201L BOLT M10 X 100MM 1ST 30MM THREADED Gearbox cross member top 2 SH110251L BOLT M10 X 25MM FULLY THREADED Gearbox cross member bottom 4 SS108404 SCREW M8 X 40MM WINDSCREEN HINGE 2 SE110401 SCREW M10 X 40MM WINDSCREEN HINGE 4 SF106401 SCREW M6 X 35 mm COUNTER SUNK DOOR LATCH STRIKER 4 SE106161L SCREW M6 X 16MM For bracket support door shut 4 SE604071l SCREW 1/4" UNF X 7/8" MIRROR>HINGE 12 TYG100590 BOLT M10 X 32MM (1ST 20MM THREAD) BI-HEX Swivel housing 14 SH106121L BOLT M6 X 12MM FULLY THREADED 4 BH610281L BOLT 5/8 UNF X 3.5" FRONT RADIUS ARM to AXLE BUSHES 2 BH114167 BOLT M14 X 80MM PANHARD ROD DEF 1 bh608461 BOLT 1/2 UNF X 5.75 CHASSIS. TO BRACKET FOR PANHARD ROD 1 253952 BOLT 6.5 X 1/2" UNF "A" FRAME TO AXLE + MOUNTING PANHARD ROD. 2 BH610321L BOLT 5/8" UNF X 4" (1ST 1-1/2" THREADED) Trailing arm bush 2 BH612321 BOLT 3/4" UNF X 4" BOLT UPPER A FRAME BUSH DEF 2 SH605081L BOLT 5/16" UNF X 1" A FRAME BUSH

While the 110 is in bits and easy to work on ive decided to change the suspention turrets and shocks as they are way past their best. The 110 is used on and off road carying heavy loads on road and will be used as an expedition veichle with rack etc and hd winch bumper (the winch is planned just the funds keep being used on other bits) It seems to have HD rear springs fitted as it is quite tall for a standard 110. anyway back to the point. While its in bits I think its about time i changed the Front springs to try to stop the motor looking loke a dragster when its unladen. I searche dthe site and the links to suspention and it seems that the HD front springs are also 90 rear springs? Does anyone have experince of how these are when fitted? Or any sugestions as to what springs will work. Ive also seem (on x-eng) that police spec springs for the 90 give 1-2 " lift. would fitting these to the front work? Id also want to fit gas shocks but what ones are proven reliable for an expedition motor? Sorry for so many questions its just i seem to find all the answers i need here. Cheers Edd

Thought id better introduce myself. 1983 110 hardtop with the original and very smokey 2.1/4 asmatic diesle. and now will be 200tdi and expedition preped to play in the alps by july!! Edd nb.. if anyones from round essex and is out on the lanes let us know.

Cheers for the link. Thats a more realistic price. Ill sort out a write up including sorting the timer if people want. (just got to getthe 110 backk in one piece before i fit it.) Can anyone recomend fitting tinted over clear? is it an improverment. if so ill try and get an idea of despatch time. Edd

Im replacing the pipes on the 110 and cant find anywhere that states wheter they are metric or umf fittings. I would go and look at the motor but im on nights and its in the workshop at the mo. (although im not shure what i would be looking for) Also im replacing the rear axle for a 300tdi one. i need the 3 way union for this and assume it is metric. is this correct. Any help appreciated nb ...ive found that that rrc changed in 1984 andi think the series 1n 1982 though im not 100% Edd

I looked into fitting a heated screen last year but diddnt as it wasnt high on the priorites. Now the 110 is in bits i thought i would look into it again. Im shure when i looked last the price was £100-£150 although i cant remember who that was from. looking now the cheapest i can findis £220+. Does anyone know a good supplier for the front screen or is it the case that the prices have rocketed in the year. Cheers Edd

Cant work out the conection Edd

Put us down for 3 please Edd

try here Edd

Im Up for a couple of stickers to. Ive watched simons products with interest with the plan to add the handbrake to the 110. (something ill definatly do now). As has been said before although scrapiron are within the law it dosent make it right to rip off other companies. I have noticed time and time again good ideas from other companies appering from the Sc camp. Im glad that finally they may have a voice of opposition large enough to cause them concern. Edd

Hi. Ive got a defender 200tdi engine (bought off a friend who insits its a good runner) that I am planning to fit to my 1983 110 (the 2.1/4 diesle is a little under-powered!). Whilst the engine is waiting to go in I have decided to do the usual cambelt change and also change the waterpump as it has a litttle play. I am also probably going to change the head gasket as well jsut to be shure. Anyway back on topic.. with the engine on a stand cranking it over from the front pully there is no compression. I have taken the rocker cover off and the valve clearances are ok and they all work. As you spin the engine there is th sound of air comming from the injector pump. (could this be where the preasure is being lost??) Also is there anything else I should change whilst the engine is out (it needs to be reliable as im converting the 110 to an expedition veichle) Any help greatfully recived. Edd By the way, only came accross this forum the other week and it seems a very friendly place where lots of good information is shared. Cheers and keep up the good work.

Hi. Sounds like it could be a bad earth in the tail ligts. before taking the dash appart i would clean all the earth connection at the back. hth Edd