vougese39

single or twin button remote?

mm 4x4 don't do the pannels anymore! yes i would be intrested in a carbon bonnet and glassfibre wings front rear lamp housings and tailgate or a glassfibre bonet too mm did 2 types one for racing and a heavy duty version for normal bonnet catch

get the ecu read idle can only be set with testbook not like a classic! could be a faulty afm has it got gas?

14 cux does not have a limp home mode!!!! coolant temp sensor only use genuine or afm but really need to read ecu faults

these a first nige both of us agreeing get a photo lol

2 toque head bolts on the bumper remove rear mud flaps and trim screw in wheel arch to chassis pull pannel away and release the clip on the bumper bang bumper down then slide out bolt tow bar frame to chassis refit simple 1 hour job

never mind ensure they give you a good warranty print out because you will need it! you have to have a tune resister so the ecu knows to look to see if lambdas are fitted or not also the world market fuel spec too

there is a modified presure switch that should be fitted with the software download! the fault you need to see to confirm the comp is fubar is a pressure supply to rear or tomuch energy for o/s/r meaning comp cannot comp any more

guess what i was right! lol the flywhel is expensive unless you can find the correct year one on ebay second hand it will have tobe new

rear ram has proberly failed

yes me depends on the spec and what you want i offer piper cams with genuine gaskets and followers also head and valve conversions

vac pipe air leak totaly unrelated fault. as for the efi needs to bleed the pump is a self priming system to 14 psi min pressure it is not like a diesel! stepper motor fault or fuel pressure reg fault

slipped linner is a high pitch and can be heard constatly and does not go quite when the revs are applied trust me heard both noises before def flywheel or loose torque convertor

no was not a typo when we do the fill test on each cylinder for balancing with the piston at the top of the stroke and water/antifreeze mix poured in it equates to 22cc sorry not me typing all the info as for ecus the 14cux ecu will adpt to a larger better breathing engine without major issues if you have cats fitted and fit a non cat tune ecu disconnect the lambdas

throw the third row of head bolts away not needed yes wrong gaskets i would be inclined to check the cam for wear at that milage

plug is white 5 pin and under the dash pannel not many fault readers can read the classic ecu

fly wheel or torque convertor bolts loose

land rover have fitted three types of pas boxes 3 bolt fixing early type 4 bolt fixing most coman 7 bolt fixing heavy duty gemini box 4 bolt fixing is the best for feel 3 is a little heavy in op to the four bolt 7 bolt very rare and more expensive to replace more coman on the 90/110

well i have the only converted classic running p38a arnott gen2 air springs so yes it can be done

any air bags over 10 years of age are past it and need changing i have found that when the piston seal wears out it forced debry into the valve block which in turn cause leaks and lazy suspension i also overhaul the valve blocks now just for piece of mind worth the hassel

if you have the supercharged led lamps then they are sealed if you have the early one they are bulb only the tray pops out but from memory the lamp is doule lens so new lamp

just wanting to stoke the fire a little when i build my engines i always have the pisotns balanced to 1/2 gram the rods balanced end to end and the crank and flywheel and front pulley as well this makes for a very smooth running engine and also worth a few bhp as well, which as we all know every pony counts. if you are wanting to build a hi comp motor as most of mine are i go this route 4.6 cross bolted block top hat linnered 4.6 crank 4.6 rods 4.0 pistons give a comp ratio of 10.4-1 with comp gaskets also a 22cc in the crown of the piston 28cc in the head and the the comp gasket also all pistons are cc balanced alonmg with the heads

lt230 box will not fit as pointed out drive is on the oposite side to the disco1 or 2 fit different props will make a very vibration prone vehicle as for the d2 axles they are the same internals as p38a just with the diff in a different postion

reset the base idle

are you sure it is on gems not hotwire? how did they get round the lambda reading which the ecu is programed to need to help mixture setting?