sighnbox

One day Ill have a Landy I can drive again arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Ok I have Purple & Green Red Black With the engine running and no lights on I have one those probe things if I place it in the 3 light wire connections the probe beeps and a green light on the probe ....if I then turn on my lights and place the probe in the Purple and green and the black it beeps and green light on the probe but in the red a constant tone and the probe light is red ...if I unconnected that red wire my back light goes out ......Hate electrics no idea what I'm doing but may give some one an idea Ok to add to that with the probe on the switch wires with out engine running two green and probe is green ....green and purple nothing .....engine running two green and probe is red solid beep and the green and purple has nothing no light at all on probe but wiggle a bit and get a red but looks like still no B lights

Yes found the brake switch ...removed it joined the two wires together and NO brake lights checked fuse all ok ...god I could cry one thing after another at the mo ...any ideas on what else to check ? what are my wires when it gets to the brake lights them selves ? so can check them

Hi guys thanks for every ones help ..........I now have a fully working dead smooth fantastic to use clutch as many suggested it was the release bearing it sure had melted a bit lol Quick one while here Ive no brake lights on the pic below is that where the brake light wires plug into ?? as have a plug there but don't want to seam to clip back on ? or is that the low level warning ?? is the switch the two green wires at the top behind the pedal ?

Even better than that not sure if he does a TD5 one but contact Nigel from the site for one his upgraded release bearings

I shouldn't laugh but welcome to my world ...EXACTLY what I had, have , being done tomorrow ......We suspect its the release bearing ...but will let you know tomorrow...Mines all gears using the clutch

Was it the bottom Rad hose Ron ? and what you have to do... I miss read that lol you mean pipe into the box

Ive a 6 bolt that was green before i just sprayed it black ....is changing to a 4 bolt a good upgrade then is it a much better drive ???? is the box its self smaller ? as my water pipe only just clears my 6 bolt and dont want any rubbing.

Thanks western this whole clutch thing has been one thing after another......Land rover even got one in for me to make sure mine was right rod the other day but by mistake got a R380 not LT77 one. It was only today when I just asked them to check there was deff only ONE push rod for my slave and I saw on the screen it said £6.30 ........yet the one they got in for me to measure the other day was £40+ ........I pointed this out and we realized the mistake ....saying that the push rod for the R380 that Ive had in there for the last 7 years has worked fine its about 1.5 CM shorter than the correct one is... on the PLUS side I think you were dead right about the release bearing I removed the slave today started the engine still the horrid sqeling sound I revved her a bit still sqeling revved her again and GONE Ticks over fine now sounding sweet again

Paid £150 for mine to be done all in

More update it would seam I do have the wrong push rod I have a R380 one not Lt77 there is nearly 1.5 CM diffrence

Its deff worth doing as had both mine go as if not the dam grease runs down on the discs and contaminates your brake pads ..costing even more money for a new set ....two dam sets for me one when one side went another when the other side seal failed ...mine were stripped right out and done all the seals ..gen landy seals not a lot of money ........no more leaks and I don't get rocketed left or right across the road when I brake now

Sorted just gona use the old one know it worked before no reason it shouldn't Now....Just an update guys found out the difference there is Defender, Discovery, long bell housing and short bell housing

Ok guys my saga continues Ok 110 200tdi LT77 box ........Clutch slave push rod how long should it be mmmmmm ??????? The one that came out before all this trouble started is including ball is 77mm long Got one the other day (****Part one) and that's about 90mm long found a guy on the net with same set up as me and he had two one 99.3 and 91.3 ..........any one know what it should be ???? as off to mates engineering shop tomorrow to do my plastic clip mod Being honest here Land Rover did get me one in to measure and it was deff lot shorter than 90mm but like a plonker I lost the bit paper with the length written on it The newer one is all so thinner was I given a TD5 one by mistake (not the only wrong part handed out on this job) Is it best to stick to my original rod as I know it works Ok have one Nigel's supper beefed up clutch forks but want to mod it more to hold that dam clip in place one the two below (I think done by members of the site) Any one see any advantage/disadvantages with either weld or bolt method ? I will be glad when this clutch saga is over sick of it as sure every one else is LOL at this rate we will have to change this Defender forum to Paul's clutch Forum LOL

Fingers crossed Reiny it is just the clutch and nothing more ...Its being done on Saturday...so Saterday night I will hopefully be celebrating with a curry and loads real Ale

As say just went LUk as what was recommended by loads people (not just landy folk) and heard horror stories about the BB and Veleo ones Then found tonight Jacks posting tonight after getting it about his clutch problem out in Africa "what will do this to a clutch" I think it was and seen Nigel also recommend them so a happy chap now or I will be if it all works ok when in on Saturday lol By the way you know I said a horrid sqeeling sound with the engine running now from the bell housing what you recon to driving it 6 mile or a deff no no to risky (where garage and ramp is)

Just read this wish id found the write up yesterday would have saved would have saved me lots of research on what Luk part and a day of hassle with Euro parts giving me TWO LUK clutches that were wrong ones........ Having contacted LUK UK TEC department today ...The correct part number for a 200TDI clutch 110 0r 90 Defender is 624180600 This is a kit with the cover friction plate and the release bearing ...Tho throw the bearing a way and buy one from Nigel (on the site who wrote above about clutches ) website Megasqirt-V8 £50 for a all metal one and a extremely helpfully guy (has other great stuff for sale as well) The LUK clutch kit is £98.34 with VAT from Motor Parts Direct (shop not internet) It was on the shelf and LUK uk tell me all Motor factors supply them as well ...cost unknown

Thanks there at least some thing is working ok on her at the mo lol

Hi western its Euro parts total incompetence as suspected the top clutch is for a 1963 -1990 Diesel land rover and on there web site it says original OE Ref: 5000034001; STC8359; 801255; CLKIT68; LRO-STC8359 ......when I phoned land rover they tell me that's a PETROL clutch number and the other part number they gave me is for a Valeo clutch not a LUK one what I asked for ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR So I phoned LUK UK told them what Landy it was and its LUK part number 624180600 what equates to the land rover 200tdi clutch kit LR009366 Right must dash 30 mile round trip to get the right clutch thanks so much chap ......away I go again not easy this landy lark well it ant when dealing with dam Euro part lol later chap oh forgot yes that last part number Friction plate UQB000130 is land rovers heavy duty one the normal one is UQB500030 right must dash OK I'm back with the correct part any one want a LUK clutch for there 200TDI Motor Parts Direct £98.34 with the VAT.......standard one but according to the guy in the shop LUK make there clutches with 20% more tolerance than the original manufacturers one ......I chose not to use Borg and Beck or Veleo as told by several people .... Borg and Beck now sold the name and made in India and the same with Veleo as names been sold to china...

Hi guys as you know had loads trouble with my clutch new on in Saturday and want to use a LUK one Been in Euro part this morning told them what I have 110 200tdi LT77 box single mass fly (no need to worry about the release bearing long or short as I have one from Nigel) The part Ive been supplied with is Euro part number 641670020 and the number on the LUK box is 624102900 and on there web site when I check to see if it fits mine it says Land rover 19/110 1990 DMHC (1983-1990suv) 2.5TD if I change the car to a 1990 tdi Defender I get ......."This item does not fit Land Rover Defender 1990 LD [1990-2014] 2.5 90,110 TDI." Cover Diameter(Mm): 235 Description: 3Pc Clutch Kit With Bearing Diameter 1 [Mm]: 242 Diameter 2 [Mm]: 235 Extra Information: Kit 3 Pieces (Cover & Plate & Bearing) Passenger Cars Range Hub Profile: 23X23,3X26,5 Number Of Teeth: 23 Plate Diameter(Mm): 240, 242 Standard: Dbc PLEASE NOTE: The vehicle compatibility should be used as a guide only, on occasions there might be more than 1 option available for some vehicles. We use the latest information provided by the part manufacturers to make the listings as accurate as possible but please always check the full specification before making a purchase, if you are in any doubt then please contact us with your vehicle details or vehicle registration number so we can confirm the correct parts or use the product technical information and dimensions to cross reference to ensure you are selecting the correct part for your application. OE Ref: 5000034001; STC8359; 801255; CLKIT68; LRO-STC8359 They are getting me in for tomorrow a Europart number 641670720 On the net I found(fthe below info for part 641670720L) and it says Land rover Defender (1990) 2.5 ) presume its the same one 3pc it inc bearing Diammerter 2(mm) 235 Hub Profile 23x23, 3x26,5 Plate diameter (MM) 240, 242 Supplier number 624180600 engine code 11L; 16L; 23L Other information Modle Code LD Diameter 1(mm) 242 Number of teeth 23 weight 7,7 What one is it or are is the clutch its self the same and the bearing different maybe ? Land rover have told me 200TDI parts are Cover URB100760....Friction plate UQB000130 any one any ideas ???????? as the numbers as in the sizes seam to be the same ???

Had it my self a few times and as far as I know from my experience and was told as long as you keep that transfer box topped up (I think EP80) but some one will tell you for sure you can still drive it ...as Ive all ways done and its been ok I had new seals in mine over and over they last 6-12 month then the drip starts and then when it gets bad I change it and we start all over again ....cheer up Stephen mines been a bugger at the mo as well ....It don't take long to change if you some tools and some where you can get a seal from there dead cheap for gen ones....Not sure why a vibration tho unless UJ as well or the flange its self the prop bolts to..... get under it and see if there's any movement in that UJ (use HD one when replace)...if it is running rather than dripping sounds like a new seal and poss flange if that's whats rubbed it To add to that I have asked why it keeps happening and been told by landy special garage that part of the transfer box its self wears allowing the seal to be worn and ask the guys in here I bet loads of us have a drip or drip drip drip transfer box

Ok update she is being pulled apart on Saturday by me and a friend (basically me being a go for spanner boy) But I will get to see how its done.....New LUK clutch and cover, One of Nigel's ( megasquirt-v8.co.uk) who I must say was so helpful and put up with my stupid questions ....his uprated release bearings and uprated strengthened clutch forks (what I will then mod some more to hold that dam plastic clip in place as below pic) A new genuine clip....and pray she is ok after will let you know the results....... A real big thank you to every one who posted and offered advice and help OR not sure which yet to hold the horrid clip

TEAM IDRIS ........." The biggest threat is existing ally corrosion. I haven't figured how to kill that yet" When you do please tell us all we will all be eternally grateful

No dave I haven't so yes will try that first