sighnbox

MMMMM must say had similar and like daily sleaze says mine was a melted release bearing as well

Ok must be brain dead today had landy panic attack lol typed in RTC3458 on google and yes 75mm

Hi guys simple one today but having a blank moment and sure this is right but double checking I want to replace one my Prop UJ and just checking I have the correct item (as have the work shop, ramp for one day and lot easier than laying in the dirt) so want the correct Item My Landy was a 1990 TD and on past recites the UJ's Ive brought are RTC3458 and TVC1000010G on my recites ...Plus many more (I remember one going back in the past but think this was becouse was given a standard one not HD one but have doubt in the old mind now ...Must be me age) Just checking (as buying via post) that TVC1000010G what says is the smaller 75mm span Heavy Duty GKN Hardy Spicer ...??? This sound right ??? it should fit my landy ??? .....The add says (so should fit mine buts ome times these adds wrong) Series Vehicles Fitted With 75mm Joints Defender From Approx 1986 Rear Prop Defender From Aprox 1986 - 2001 Front Prop Discovery I & II Range Rover P38A Thanks guys

Was ok a day started again ....new starter arived to day and the dam bolts are SOLID tried all sorts ARRRRRRRRRRRRRR

Been driving it shopping round the city today and lots stops and starts all started ok with no slugish starts ....will see tomorow morning

Ok cleaned my bat terminals and earth strap seams to have stoped the slugish start .....started it 15 times jammed onece but prob my fault as started instant turned off before stopped properly so fingers crossed

Also STX brand (Cradocks £75 + VAT) ??

Bearmach starter motor any one used one ???? are they any good ??? woth the money ?? (£88) Thanks guys

Ok guys its been a while but she has been behaving well Ok latest's Landy disaster is .......Get in turn the key and some times nothing the engine does not turn over.........(Not every time) ALL the electrics work fine just no turn over not even a clicking sound.. Ok so rapidly turn the key back and forth and eventually she will start ......usually a slow turn over to start with like its struggling to turn over then will kick in to life ... Now I'm guessing starter obviously but any one think of any other possibilities ???

D C Roberts North Walsham 01692 403130 £1296 to change the chassis

Yes lol all working great now ......have clutch, brake lights, and reversing light......cant moan the old girl has not let me down in 7-8 year not bad for 24 years old ......I knew it would give you a giggle all that with the brake lights and it was TWO BULLET connecters ....are all a learning process ..... I dream of the day I could build a defender from the chassis up or build a 200tdi engine from parts ....I put £20 in her turned my mega loud stereo on LOUD real LOUD (Blondie - Live in Ashbury Park 1979 and drove her ....what pure joy the whole time a big smile from ear to ear ................Its no luxury car but I love it ...............................it makes me happy .........its a DEFENDER and its supper sexy MENDED and its MINE ...LOL

LAUGH OR CRY After all the above I went to solder the wire to just below the connecter before it enters the chassis today ....I pulled of all the convoluted tubing the garage who did the chassis swop had fitted Ive done the rest of the engine bay to match and OH GREAT two red bullet connecters come undone ARRRRRRRR .......A waste of a day and £25 The said connecters are now gone and a nice soldier and heat shrink job .......On the positive side I now have two protected wires running the length of my chassis to use for something some time. It all so means my wiring loom is 100% ok and hasn't rubbed at all and two horrid bullets have gone and I have a nice neat proper join solder and heat shrink. The reversing light was a dirty connection in the same place I can't really moan as the rest of the chassis swop was fantastic done ...but why oh why use bullets and not join,solder and heat shrink then put in the convoluted tube

Ive blade fuses according to my box TOP row 3 in from left is Reversing light and front washers/wiper and five in from left is Stop light , indicators and gauges .....this appears to be correct...May be Ive the old TD fuse box in or its been changed when the 200tdi was fitted ??????......The fuse diagram on my fuse box cover is incorrect but the pic below I found on the net and seams to match mine perfect...

Dam so white is no good and it is the green that's not working for some reason .........Looks like my wiring fun goes on

MENDED got some 4 mm air tubing threaded it down the first hole in the chassis where the wiring loom from the engine enters the chassis and fished it out the next hole along with a bent coat hanger. Then where the first pipe came out feed another bit of pipe in to that hole and further along to the next hole towards the back. I ended up with 5-6 lengths of pipe poking out the chassis from front to back. I then tapped some Para cord to the first pipe and pulled it throw. Then to the second, third and so on till I had a length of para cord running front to back. I then got 4.5 Mt of 6mm air tube pulling it dead tight from end to end I threaded that with a electrical cable then pulled back threw two lots of electrical cable suitable for the lights. This was then taped to the para cord and pulled threw the chassis. Giving me a new protected wire to connect my brake lights but all so one free wire for ant future use. Ive connected it up at the back end of the Landy and tested it by touching it on the front I just need to solder it to the plug/socket wire tomorrow heat shrink and job done.... Ok I all so had no reversing light in picture 3 I found a wire out the other day and plugged it in to the green as assumed green to green but have No reversing light....the lighter green on the end has no power to it...If I plug it in to the white next to it every thing works ok.........I know white is power but just want to check its ok to use that and its fused etc ???????

The other option I suppose is from the brake switch back threw the bulk head behind the dash run the wire up the inside side of the window screen plastic threw the first head lining along the channel to the back and then down to the lights

Yes its the same fuse....get some glow fusses they illuminate when blown well good if dark can instantly see when its blown

Ok I now have a new switch (stupid me it works when out not when you push it in in arrrr old one was still broken tho) I have power right up to the last connecter before it enters the chassis (OH GREAT) Half crack that connecter open ...have a wire from the green and purple at the brake light end round to the front touch it on the connecter and it LIGHTS.....while holding it on the connecter push the switch IN and it goes out let the button on the switch out and lights again.......so one bad switch no outthe way So I have power up until that connecter and a foot before it enters the chassis........how far along between there and the lights it losses power is any ones guess ...Next question how hard is it to thread a wire threw the chassis and any one any tips on how to do it ?????? (of course I will very carefully check all wires out of the chassis and connecters that end before considering a new wire ...I have been working on the passenger side rather than drivers where the wires exit the chassis ....stupid I know as could just be a connection on that side.

OK The two green power wires in to the brake switch I take a wire from there to the lights and they work I join the switch wires together to by pass the switch and no lights I then plug the unscrew switch into the green live wires run a wire from the switch out green and purple to the lights (ignition on) press the switch and no light So it seams I have a faulty switch and a wire some where Now the two green power wires in to the switch by the time they reach the switch have they gone thro the fuse box all ready ???????? Now to add to this If I take a wire plugged in the back of my fuse box (top row five in from the Left) which should be my stop lights I run that round to the light it illuminates Can some one tell me the exact route the switch wire takes from start to the tail light ??????

Soakes .....your land sound like mine at the moment just one thing instantly after another had ..Ive had 3 as soon as ones mended within a day next thing ...daren't ever drive the thing at the moment ...Ive had all your prob several times over ....Normally a UJ, the main flange but all so once it was the rear A frame upper link ball.....caused vibration and a clunk every time I used the clutch...just an idea

If the wheels are being coated why not the old caps ?

Right western I'm on that tomorrow if they don't ....has to be an earth surly or the unit its self (but both not working Its a land rover stranger things have happened)

OK thinking about this the brake switch has two plain green connected and one green and purple with the plain greens being a constant live I believe ......if I take a wire Direct from the two greens at the switch to the back and connect directly to the green and purple should that by pass every thing and the brake lights all light up ???? If it does light up If I then do the same but with the green and Purple from the front switch to the back and it don't light up ...the switch if does Ive a break in my wire further along if no light up then a doggy switch ??? And nope chassis exit all looks fine new galvo chassis 2 year ago all rubber grommet holes and harness in convoluted pipe.......Ive only checked the passenger side so far not drivers side but both brake lights not working tested the bulb on the battery with a bit of wire and all is fine

Oh joy of joys how easy is it to run a new wire thro the chassis if I have to ?

Ok with the probe where you see the arrow green and purple wire I split the box slightly the one just before it all goes of down the chassis had a small child push the brake pedal The probe is green push the pedal goes red which I believe shows power.....Go to the back of the landy do the same on the green and purple wire there and probe is just green and stays green............Is there any joiners switches junctions etc between the front and the back of the landy as I'm presuming this means no power getting to the back FIG two cheeking round my joiners found the green wire with the blue connecter out as you see light green dark green 2 x white to choose from with the probe only a white and dark green have power so joined it back to the dark green all seams ok but still brake lights ..and presume as the tail lights working the earth must be good