muddyplugger

Thought of that so used his ebay one. Poor Bloke.

I had to do the decent thing and e-mailed him to say "are you sure you are selling your TD5 for 4 grand?" But, its a steal for someone! I do believe ebay have a policy on this sort of thing whereby you genuinely make a huge error in price, either pressing too many noughts or not enough! We will see!

I have exactly the same problem on the passenger door, but not quite the same urgency as your problem, being the one you use all the time! My thoughts were the actuator but I believe the central lock mechanism and actuator are one (could be wrong though, it has been known). I am going to investigate by removing door trim and lubing it all up and see what happens, but keep us posted! Sorry to be no help whatsoever!

yes, its this bit below. But while youre checking how corroded they are, chuck them away and............. replace with rock sliders!

Just ordered one from Jim at Gigglepin4x4.

Wheely poor joke Western! Gigglepin it is! Cheers.

Sorry to drag this up, again but I just need a confirmation regards steering wheels boss fitments. (despite previous thread and subsequent links) I have 1989 defender with the '4 spoke wheel' and have a momo wheel to fit. I have checked the splines and yes it is 36 splines and measures 17mm diameter (on top of the splines). An email to Deamon-tweeks regards a boss, turns out they have a boss that is suitable for the Defender 95 on. Would this be right?

I have noticed this today, as I swopped it over! Obviously the isloator switch is suited to the neg terminal, but it did go on the postitive (with some persuasion!) For the radio, actually routed a fused wire direct from the battery. As I frequently forget that I have the isolator key on my key ring when I start the car. BUT, if this switch is supposed to be on the neg, then I'd better think again. Mind you it hasn't set alight yet. [/crossfingermodeon]

Thats what I assumed as it only happens very occasionally. I think a quick re-wire to the positive in the morning is called for.

If you are like me and would have to give that sort of job to a 'bloke', it would cost the best part of £500 to get the box off, have a look, change the clutch whilst you're on (might as well), and then stick it all back together! For the sake of an (slighty more expensive than normal) oil change, I'd say you have nothing to loose. Unless it goes bang!!! (joking!)

My battery isolator switch is my main 'anti-theft sysem' on the defender. I am now attempting to bypass this for a permanent suppy for the Radio (I hate reprograming it every time), and I note I have wired my isolator switch to the negative terminal. Why did I do this I asked myself? Answer = I know nothing about electrics in the first instance, and my Dad always told me that it is safest to remove the negative terminal when working on the car, prevents 'sparks' incase of spanner grounding. So my befuddled brain obviously said isolate the negative terminal. It got me thinking (dangerous when I dont really understand the subject), but surely the isolator should be fitted to the positive terminal? For one it would then be possible to bypass it with one wire for my auxillary needs! Other reasons?: When wired to the negative, there seems to be a residual voltage that takes a while to dissipate once turned off. Is this bad?? If I try to start the vehicle with isolator switched off, does the alternator try and 'draw' current from the battery? but has no way back? I have done this accidently and is has occasionally made a few loud thunking noises! Is this possible? Does it really matter which is isolated?? I apologise for this being a bit of a soft topic.

Sounds normal! No racing gear changes are available on the way up. I found what makes an improvement is the synthetic oil supplied by difflock. A cheaper suggetsion rather than delving into the box first??

Thanks for this info guys in reply to minivin, the horn (Nautilus compact air horn) does not say what current it draws, but it has a 12V 30A relay and says to wire a 20A in-line fuse from the battery. So the reference of: 'Ref 25. Thinwall 28/0.30mm, 2mm2, 25amps.' is the likely wire. There is a wiring diagram, so now armed with the correct materials I am able to follow the instructions to wire this thing in! Fingers crossed!

Wow thats a quick reply! Cheers Minivin, I'll take a look! Anth.

Really sorry to be thick here, but I'm a self confessed idiot regards automotive electrics. I am going to wire in my new horn and it is to have a 20amp in-line fuse. My question is what size wire do I need for such an installation? I have digested the information on the internet and I am still not much the wiser!! I believe a 10 guage wire may be correct, but physical size is that? Is it 10mm or 20mm? And I presume I measure the wire itself and not the pvc sleeve too? I really need to be educated

I got mine from eblag from this chap Nautilus Air Horn on eblag £19.99 delivered. (if no-one bids agains you) The Stebel site quotes 139dB at 4 inches from the source and 115dB at 2 meters from the source. It weighs 600grms (just incase weight is an issue! ) other sites selling them speeding.co.uk and twistedthrottle.com or Stebels own site for info (caution - horrid music when loading)

I've just order a Nautilus Twin Tone Air Horn (139dB) for the Defender, compact but packs a heck of a punch!

Seems there is a bit of activity recently in 'new' models. I have also been reliably informed that they are unveiling the facelift D3 at the Paris Motor Show in September.

Myself and Onions will be there from Thursday. I'm up for a beer, 1pm you say?

UPDATE: Jobs done Tony. 20 minutes!! - It took me 2 1/2 hours! My concern is that I dont know how far the seal had to be pushed in. The manual said so that it was touching the circlip, but how can you tell that when you can't see it? I 'teased' it home with 'light tapping with blunt chisel and hammer' and hopefully it is OK. Will there be any consequences if its not fully in? I suppose I'll find out tomorrow! Big thanks again Tony. (small bit of advice goes a long way!)

Cheers Tony, I have breaker bar, and I will buy a 30mm Socket (I have a 27mm and a 36mm oddly enough!), and the local stealer price is £8 for the part. What could possibly go wrong?? Thanks again. Anthony.

That easy??? I'm only a 3 spanner mechanic at the best, often 2 spanner jobs are difficult! No special tools? Hammer? If its easy I'll pick one up and do it on Sunday evening! Things are looking up.

Unlike the other thread here by OilIT, I didn't check my second hand transfer box prior to fitting. I now have a leaky front output shaft oil seal, otherwise it's sound. My question is how long will it last like it is? or is there a chance that these things can just 'go' resulting in total loss of oil is within a few hundred yards? I have booked it into the garage (I'm just sick of oil and grime for a while), but am travelling to Billing next week (180 miles), and I would like some moral support it will be Ok. I realise that when it stops dripping, it needs topping up!

Fly fishing only for me! Masochistic pleasure standing there for hours catching nothing! I often tell myself its not the catching fish that counts. Like the sound of a 303 though. Remember: theres a fine line between fishing and standing on the bank looking like a pillock!

A week or two after I bought it (8 months ago), testing it out to see what would break. Note the colour swatch of Bonatti grey I was testing at the time. Some of you may remember my troubles with colour codes at the time! Last month: Happy with the colour!