muddyplugger

200Tdi: 10% - 20% mix (only use in spring/summer/early autumn) Been running it only 6 months and not noticed any difference, a little less start up smoke, but thats all. Engine oil: Mineral 10/40W (I think), changed every 3000miles, fuel and oil filter every 6000. The only things I have broken are not related to the engine! TD5: I use Diesel only, except when the wife fills it with petrol!

Dunno if any of you guys have heard this either, Little Becky (8 years old), prankster on one of the irish radio stations. Funniest thing I have heard for a long time. http://www.nxfm.com.au/shows/stevekim/inbo.../demolition.mp3

I couldn't find a recent photo of hitting a ford at 200mph (shame really ). This is sort of close to you jjojjas, it is on sheet 92, somewhere near Arkengarthdale. (when I say close I mean North East.)

I had a similar question last year here which the good members on the RR forum discussed. In the end my Dad bought a V8 RRC, which I am now using as I busted my 200tdi Defender and the wifey has the TD5 Disco. NB there is a stange burbling noise from under the bonnet, that explodes into a throaty roar as I pull away! Most odd.

Quick squirt of WD40/3-in-1 in the bearing/rear of the belt tensioner will be a diagnositic clue. I thought every 300Tdi had this high pitched churp?

Because: I never get speeding tickets. I like the excitement wether or not I will get to where I am going. The vibrations may prevent Osteoporosis I hate washing cars Spending the weekend in the garage prevents skin cancer. It annoys other road users and all the PC anti's I look forward to spending all my hard earned money on replacement parts. You can rest your beer on them without worring about the paint. Engrained oil under the fingernails stops you biting them And because I'm just big kid who likes playing with big toys!!!

Litch, you are right! I am in breakdown service, but it was 11.30 at night and in my ignorance I didnt realise what it was!! After a cursiory look (and checking the play on the wheels ) I convinced myself it was a UJ that had collapsed! Oh how wrong can you be? So far I am here: and as I forgot to collect a gasket, I will take the opportunity to check the other side and the replacement one. Spare half shafts any one????

Just as interest here is a photo of one of my (ex) front wheel bearings! The senario was.... driving happily along thinking I hadn't spent any money on repairs this month, when CRUNCH, defender pulled to the left and it felt I was driving on gravel. I had to drive another 40 miles to reach home, but it made it! (God knows how!) I am in the process of relacing the whole stub axle/swivel/half shalft/etc as: 1. The bearing replacement thing looked quite complicated. 2. A whole second hand unit was £50. (reliable source). 3. My Dad picked one up for me and wont let me give him any money for it. If it is of interest I am documenting the replacement of a stub axle thing etc. Would this be of use in the Tech Archive when I finish it? On a side note, how do the inner bearings receive their lubrication? Is it purely on physically lubricating them when built?

.....................sorry! (may be this topic can be merged with the benefits of surfactant in the cooling system thread?) A quick search shows there are de-oiler products: This was from New Zealand, maybe there are similar products in this hemisphere? You'd think so! However a run through with low foam washing liquid is probably much cheaper.

I am certainly no techy on this but as I understand it: 1. You definately need some sort of surfactant to reduce the surface tension of the water, in order that hot clumps of water are dispersed easily so that cooler water can move in. (Mind you a water pump also helps) Surfactant Good 2. Specific and Latent heat of vaporisation (My O' level Physics now! and this was something I never fully understood) - but the 'coolant' needs to have a high latent heat, it takes/removes a lot of energy to make it boil, which is particularly important where certain parts of the system are very hot (exhaust valves) so causes local boiling of the liquid and draws the heat quickly. Water has a high specific and latent heat than coolants. Water Good 3. What Pugwash said about density of water, (I think thats what he said), denser fluids carry more heat. Water has a lower specific gravity in comparison to coolant. Coolant Good 4. Boiling points. Water has lower boiling point than that of the Gylcols (but Ethyl glycol is much more fun at boiling point!!!) Coolant Good. In other words water alone is not the best coolant, it definately needs a surfactant and something to stop it boiling over (bit of Glycol). So who is going to manufacture the "LR4x4 Summer Coolant" and "LR4x4 Antifreeze"? These could be twin bottles for year round protection. Just drain and replace when needed! Edited to say: Crikey you guys type fast! There are 4 or so posts since I responded!!

Nice piccys Mark, and may I add the reason you should fit an HD bumper (this is a picture of Onions Disco, I hope he won't mind me showing it)

I'm back with my 'muti-room pants' [which has now a copyright] and the cause of the battery warning light and PAS is indeed a slack belt! Much like my pants! B)

Check this Cayenne out at Langdale Quest! I dont think the owners were too impressed with its abilities!

Ok, you called my bluff, you win. But for your amusement here they are.....

Hey! These are very special lounge pants!

ah ha! You could have something there! NB: is a disco 200Tdi under the bonnet (oops wrong forum?) Both belts I did not check, but now its too dark, I'm in my lounge pants and have bottle of wine to demolish! B) I will update you with those two suggestions, thanks guys!!!

Cheers Western, but no to both! Everything else is otherwise fine! And I'm not drunk either! Definate battery warning light at the end of each full lock. Move off full lock and it goes out. Maybe that things will slowly get worse over this week and it may be the alternator is duff?

I was surprised today that when I turned to full lock the battery warning light came on! I did it either lock too. I suspected loose alternator belt, but it seemed ok, the alternator is only a month old too! A quick diagnostic when at full lock of revving engine did not change the light. How wierd is that? (1989 Defender, Tdi conversion)

Surprised that Kwack Fit even gave you the time of day, they quoted some european directive to me, but when asked to qualify, the gimp explained it was just an email from head office saying they dont fit other peoples tyres. Local Tyre chain did 2 of them for "just buy the lad a pint, mate" They do still exist you see!

Hear hear, in fact I wish some one had done a similar thread on replacing the Front Output Shaft on the transfer box before I did mine. The nice Mr White90 described to me how to do it! Can someone do a 'How to Replace a UJ' for simpletons like me?

Thanks Matt and I do feel better just because I phoned my so called friend who indicated the wheel was wobbling, and it turns out it was one of his little jokes!! They dont realise this land rover thing is serious stuff!!! All the way home it made grindy noises, worse above 50mph. Further inspection this evening reveals notable play in the front UJ! Of course, it fits together now! The 'play'when the wheel was turned is most likely too much play in the steering, but why it pulled to the left I dont know. I'm going to have that aspirin though! (with a beer)

Dear Doctor, My Land Rover has developed a most starting problem! 2 days ago I hear this noise which sounded like I was dragging an exhasut along the ground, upon inspection everything looked OK. On the motor way journey I noted a noise, 'tinkling' sort at first then turning to louder crunch and banging which then caused the vehicle to slow and pull to left. I initially thought it was some kind of thing with the prop loosing balance or something! Set off again no problem but it happend again a few times but recified with slowing down. I removed the NSR brake drum (it felt like it was coming from there), apart one siezed piston and worn shoes, it looked ok. I put it down to something in the brake drum. Took it to work this morning, 20 miles into the motor way, it started vibrating again, this time with grindy noises. (Almost like there was a stone in the drum). Quick inspection of the front wheel (with wheels on 3/4 right hand lock), it was loose. I suspected the wheel bearing, as you would. BUT.... this afternoon, driving carefully to my next place of work an independent witness told me that the front NS wheel was wobbling. Interesting as I was unawre of any wheel judder, but the (stone in the wheel drum) noise was still apparent. Now when checking the play on the wheel, with it straight there is NO play! Could this be the swivel?? (there does seem to be some oil on the chome ball) but I'm in my nice white work clothes and best not get oily! I am still at work, so I'm planning my evening of repairs now! If it is the swivel, can I tighten it? What should I look for? Please write me a prescription to mend my Land Rover. Thank you Doctor(s)

He's dropped it to a fiver now! There's no hiding from LR4x4! Well done Mr Trooper

Not an new word, but I learnt it in 2006, but have never seen anyone displaying it. Dysdidodokinesis

I have used this online company quite a few times http://www.lrdirect.com Found them to be the cheapest on a number of occasions, but best have a part number/code that you require or its a nightmare. I have had no problems with any part of their service, so worth sticking on your 'check the price of' list.