muddyplugger

I'd think about the tyres first. Then those lovely roof tents mmmmmmmm....

Before getting dirty, this time I am going to research exactly what I need and what I need to do before undertaking a 'simple' job!!! (out of character for me) I've had a look in the workshop manual and it says "ABS sensor is supplied fitted to the wheel hub must not be removed", well it doesn't say MUST NOT be removed!! Surely there must be a way of removing the sensor without removing the brake disc, releasing the wheel hub and all the hours of turmoil that goes with it to replace a natty plug????? I'm sure someone has done this 3 or 4 times and has some tips on 'How to replace the ABS sensor in under 20 minutes' [1 spanner job] ...... please???

I was in Tallinn (Culture and Beer visit), and I saw more Disco 3's in 4 days than I have seen in the UK since it's release! Dunno why? I'd have seen more if I'd not been sheltering in the bars from the painful subzero temperatures! Still, sometimes more to life than Landys eh?? I'll get my coat.

Are these the ones? Crystal Halogen Headlamp Conversion Kit It has a note with it: Is that due to headlight adjustment, or what? Whats the difference? Will general MOT guy notice? Or are you talking about these? Halogen headlights - pair RHD to 94MY -to KA922614

Perfect time to ditch the candle power for something a bit better, as one bulb has blown. Jeesus, I would so like to see where I was going at night!!!! Is there an aftermarket straight swop? PS. One sealed headlight unit for sale. Slightly dim but watertight! (I can understand making a unit watertight, but its a headlight for dashed sake!!!, prime function to illuminate the road!!! If 'watertight' is the main concern then why don't they design the bl**dy door seals the same way!!!!!!) [/rantmodeoff]...... ...back to headlights.......

I know this NOW!!! bit odd in the dark when jump starting the wife's Corsa from the Disco!! Flames there was! Image the humility! Now flogged the Corsa (with brand new Alternator) and bought her the Defender! Could have been worse I suppose!

I am reducing this price with every click, so far sensor = £50.23 delivered, but I'm going to check the company that the nice Mr. White90 gave me. B) In order I do get the correct one (double checking), how do I check the sensor? Can I jack up the wheel, put a meter on the sensor somehow and spin the wheel and get a reading?? Anyone know what I am testing for too? resistance? current? connection? Sorry to be thick!

It must have been the trip to the shops then! See LR Forum ABS Fault

Just for information...... It seems that the early TD5's have an inherent problem with the injector wiring harness. I relay this story from my LR mechanic replacing mine! (and several others, so he says!!) The Disco suddenly lost power and felt like it was firing on 3 or 4 cylinders, this did not improve with acceleration but could eventually get up to speed, it just ran like a total bag of spanners! At tick over it was lumpy, and my first thoughts were a blocked injector. It turns out that the early D2's injection wiring harness is prone to filling with oil (it runs through the rocker cover?), and then the oil finds it way into the ECU slab! One new harness and cleaned out ECU, Perfect! I dont know if this is that common or indeed if is there is a fix prior to the £150 bill, but maybe something to consider if it happens to you!

OK, disconnected battery for 1/2hour...... no difference, took it to friendly LR mechanic who doesnt have 'test book', but checked the resistance of each sensor and said that the OSR was much lower than the other 3. (other 3 same resistance). Had a quick look on the web at the price of Wheel Sensors for the Disco........arrghhh..... Now enroled in Cardiac Rehab Class!!!!!!......anyone know where I can source one for a 'reasonable' price????? Rimmerbrs £328 ....GULP!

Echo MogLite, make sure you have correct format discs, +R or -R for the rewriter. NB: DVDshrink needs Nero to burn. (full licence code for Nero too, IIRC) Another (free) program to back up DVD discs is '1 Click DVD Copy' but is quite limited and you will need a program called 'DVD 4 3' to remove the encryption. Perfect for backing up you own DVD collection. Personally find DVDShrink much better.

I like the belated use windscreen wipers to prevent the vehicle completely sinking!! I didnt see any snorkels on the vehicle or its occupants!!

As Bogbuster, it's most likely stuck due to the halfshafts in situ. You dont need to jack it up or remove the wheels, remove the hub caps on both wheels, here you will find the ends of the halfshalfts. I cant remember if it's a castle nut or circlip, but, take that off, withdraw the half shafts a trifle, so you feel them clonk out of the diff, hey presto - diff should come away easy. Mind you: This should mean that the diff is not seized. Two half shalfts, wheel turns diff, diff turns other wheel. Its a damn site harder to manually turn the wheels by hand from the small mechanical (dis)advantage from the driveshaft. mmmmm...... I think bogbuster has a good point regards handbrake. (He always does! )

Is it just that the nuts are seized on the diff?? IIRC its (in theory) an easy proceedure, remove/ withdraw halfshafts, remove prop (4 bolts) and 'doughnut', undo (using breaker bar probably) the bolts on the diff. Lower very heavy diff to ground. replace reverse as above. I think it may wise to renew the doughnut, as these wear in the 300's and can ultimatley destroy the diff. Special Tools: LR tool 1 = Hammer LR tool 2 = Stilsons. Plasters and bandages.

If this is the first time you've the memory stick at the front ant it dont work, it could be that the memory stick is a USB2 and the ports are driven at USB1. Often manufactures use differing speeds of USB front/back. If you have used the memory stick in the fronts before and they were OK, sometings Bu$$ted! I dont know the answer as I'm not a techy, but you could just get a cheap USB hub (extension lead), plug it in the back and leave it at the front for you to use? EDITED - Ah, just read your posting more thoroughly (specs clean now), Check device manager to see if they are working, Right Click 'My Computer' and then click 'Manage'. You will then see 'Device Manager' under the branch of Sysyem tools. Click on that then somewhere in that list you will have the USB's listed. Click them and it will tell you if it is working/conflict/enabled etc. From there can you manage???

In addition to that.... I know the aux drive belt tensioner squeeks and chirps away, this is apparent on the vast majority of the 300Tdi's (fix with WD40/3in1). I also believe (??) that the chassis is prone to rust along the rear rails (easy to see I suppose). Check the old Diff lock/and the light - it is prone to siezing without any use. The central door actuators have a tendancy to be sluggish when they are on the way out, Maplins do the part for a few quid. So check all the doors open after unlocked with remote. The rear door handle often fails to open the door! (fixed with WD40 again) I second the leaking sunroof! they drain internally as mentioned, so are a pain to fix. (LR has issued a techincal bullitin on how to do this) I'll keep thinking of others.......

Up until now I have put up with the 3 damn lights intermittantly annoying me, but over the past few days I can't reset them with the old 'turn it off and back on again' routine. It a D2 '99 with 113k on the clock. I have read about poor signal from the wheel sensors, to the shuttle valve/switch or (worst case) the modulator itself going belly up! I would take it to the Stealer for diagnostic on test-book, but I also read that some owners replace the ABS modulators for ££££ (test-book faut) and then the problem recurs in a few months! Has anyone got any new/updated info on the potential fixes here?, can I remove some fuses to stop the lights and remain with a funtional traction control? The snow cometh soon and at the moment I am a very heavy two wheel drive car! Bring back the Diff Lock!!! No smug coments please!

Why would you want to take a picture of a horses @r$e?? (nice looking @r$e's though!) I dont know much about horses, but the one on the right/top has only three legs!

For the Defender: its4me.co.uk £120 TPFT For the Disco: esure.co.uk £311 fullcomp For the motorbike: ebikeinsurance.co.uk £113 fullcomp costs me a bleedin' fortune!!!

Thanks guys, I guess the jury is out and depends on personal preference, reading your experiences I think I can justify bending a steering guard rather than bending some of the other bits. The photos I used were just examples and I think it's back to the drawing board for a guard that is: thick enough to stop the accidental knock shallow enough to maintain the approach angle high enough so not to belly out soild enough to create a bow wave not so bling to get laughed at and cheap enough so I can buy a few beers with the change!!!

I'd like your expert opinions on the pros/cons of steering guards, I have made the decision to go for 8mm Aluminium, but does this type of guard plough up the ground and get snagged: or should I choose a smoother type but that may not drain all the cr@p out after my muddy exploits?: My wife just can't see the turmoil in my life!!!

I went through this exact conundrum, and after a bit of research and posting on here, eventually purchased some Gas Munore Adventurer Shocks from Paddocks for about £22 each. Haven't fitted them yet, but they look nice!

I think this has just changed my mind. It is flattering that the information on this site is of great interest to the wider Land Rover community, and it is with that in mind that people post, however these magazine wigs are making several quid out of it, so I think it only right that the author be sourced to write a piece for the mag and recompensed accordingly. My two penneth.

If its the Series II Disco, then its a weak signal from the wheel sensor. Best just to a soft reset Ctrl/Alt/Del (aka turn ignition off and back on) and it will all work fine.

I'm/we're a RAC member, when the wife had the Disco and it started bilging out black smoke from the wheel, explained brakes binding problem to the headset the help desk, took 3hrs to send out a numpty who said "we don't do brakes"!! Flatbed arrived in a hour (they contract this out), took her home (even though our policy says closest approved garage, which was much closer). All in all took RAC cover, as 'twas the cheapest for insuring the person, not vehicle. Not impressed with the mechanic though! (bit of rubber from road stuck caught in brake pad and melted!)